3.4L project | Page 2 | FerrariChat

3.4L project

Discussion in '308/328' started by Ferraripilot, Jun 21, 2011.

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  1. duck.co.za

    duck.co.za Formula 3

    Jan 9, 2007
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    Hang on , hang on , the indexing hole is different . You can see from the pic's ?
    Just means , that hole in the flywheel needs to be oversized . I would then not trust the TDC mark on the flywheel , but for Johns purpose he has his trigger wheel on the front damper . Where the 360 has it on the flywheel .
     
  2. Ferraripilot

    Ferraripilot F1 World Champ
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    John!

    thankfully an easy fix!
     
  3. smg2

    smg2 F1 World Champ
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    I saw that but that is not the case at all, I have both cranks myself and they share the same bolt pattern and pilot bore. I can only assume that the washer in that pic isn't on correctly.

    The only issue you'll run into that needs to be addressed is the first main bearing is not as wide as the stock crank. what that means is that the timing gear sits 5mm further back than it should and will not engage correctly. a 5mm spacer washer will fix that one. the other is minor one, the width of the last bearing where the flywheel mounts is 1.5mm short, not enough to cause any fitment problems but a 10mm single lip seal may not seal properly on the mid plate, using a std. aftermarket 8mm single lip or a double lip seal will address that one as well, the use of washer will reduce/remove the depth of the concentric lip for the flywheel to mount on, not a good idea.

    however with the cost of 360 cranks so god awful high now, there are cheaper methods to achieve more HP. not to mention the real bottle neck is the head flow.
     
  4. duck.co.za

    duck.co.za Formula 3

    Jan 9, 2007
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    Ok maybe I'm wrong ?? I used a 308 torque plate on the 360 crank for the pic's ? I'll try and bolt it up with all the bolts and see !
     
  5. smg2

    smg2 F1 World Champ
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    What model 360 crank? I wonder if there is a difference with the challenge model? I've only check fitment with the std 360. I can post pics tomorrow night.
     
  6. duck.co.za

    duck.co.za Formula 3

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    #31 duck.co.za, Jun 28, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  7. Ferraripilot

    Ferraripilot F1 World Champ
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    Brilliant stuff Dave. Many thanks for checking that
     
  8. Ferraripilot

    Ferraripilot F1 World Champ
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    I made short work of removing the liners last night. There really isn't much to it so long as you have the correct leverage and means to remove them without causing any damage. Unless of course your name is Sean and you love challenges.

    Anyway the pistons and rings look as good as they day I put them in last year as do the bearings.
     
  9. Pizzaman Chris

    Pizzaman Chris F1 Rookie

    Mar 13, 2005
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    You pulled the motor and taken it apart already?? :eek:

    Man, you work fast.
     
  10. Ferraripilot

    Ferraripilot F1 World Champ
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    I don't mess around. I have pulling the motor and tearing it down to a science now lol. I had it out and torn apart in less than 9 hours.
     
  11. luckydynes

    luckydynes F1 Rookie

    Jan 25, 2004
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    Almost makes you wanna do it for a living doesn't it :). A good running engine rebuild is pretty easy ... engines that have caught on fire and been "seasoning" in the high desert sun are a bit more challenging ;).

    Now that you've taken the liners out I bet you're wondering why anyone would reccomend NOT doing that ... it's so easy and you can blast that buildup off the o.d. to maximize cooling efficiency ... we need all the help we can get :).

    Excellent progress ... you motivate me.

    cheers
     
  12. Ferraripilot

    Ferraripilot F1 World Champ
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    John!
    Any recommendation regarding the liner o-rings? Which to use etc.
     
  13. luckydynes

    luckydynes F1 Rookie

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    I've used what came in the gasket sets from GT. There's also a standard o-ring size that's really close. Probably use Viton but just double check some fluid compatibility chart.

    Can you measure the o-rings cross section now you have them out? They'll have some memory but should swell back out after not being compressed. I wish I had a new one to measure ... I'll have to look. They weren't that expensive from the typical Ferrari parts if you just want to get on with it, but things change. I don't remember things like gearbox nuts being so expensive as they are now.

    cheers
     
  14. luckydynes

    luckydynes F1 Rookie

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    I just looked at some liners I have and the o-rings are permanently deformed.

    I also glanced at the Parker o-ring handbook and I didn't see an o-ring that jumped out at me as being correct based on what I was measuring on the sleeve. My Parker book is not metric but I've ran a standard o-ring ... it may not be something you want to experiment with. I wish I had a new one to measure.

    cheers
     
  15. luckydynes

    luckydynes F1 Rookie

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    Thanks for verifying all this smg2 and duck!
     
  16. Ferraripilot

    Ferraripilot F1 World Champ
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    It's just a silly o-ring. Ricambi or GT have them for super-cheap so no worries. Was just curious if there was something particularly special about this one. Evidently not.
     
  17. luckydynes

    luckydynes F1 Rookie

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    yeah I was curious ... $13/pc from some guys.

    cheers
     
  18. smg2

    smg2 F1 World Champ
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    speaking of 'O' rings, I' was thinking of a new location for some. head studs at the deck. right when the stud necks down it's still below deck, squeezing one there should hopefully keep any stray coolant from getting into there and corroding up again thus making it beyond painful to remove. I've have been using a bead of anaerobic sealant on the top of the liner registry as well.
     
  19. Ferraripilot

    Ferraripilot F1 World Champ
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    John!
    Good idea with the o rings. And the sealer, you're talking about the underside of the liner when it mates with the recess at the top of the block right (the underside of the 'T' edges)?
     
  20. Ferraripilot

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    #46 Ferraripilot, Jul 1, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  21. Ferraripilot

    Ferraripilot F1 World Champ
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    #47 Ferraripilot, Jul 3, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    ok so this morning was all about cleaning the mating areas for the sleeves on the block. I mainly cleaned the areas the o-ring mates to at the bottom. I used a soft bristle wheel on a die grinder and lightly hit all the mating areas and then rinsed the block off with a pressure washer. I will take the block down to a machine shop and have it hot-tanked in an aluminum block cleaning tank this coming week. Should look like new then!

    I cleaned a couple of the sleeves using the soft wire brush on the die grinder as well. There was all sorts of calcium and who knows what built up into the grooves on the sleeves. Before and after pic below.
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  22. Ferraripilot

    Ferraripilot F1 World Champ
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    question regarding cylinder sleeve sealant:

    Which to use? I used Hylomar 3400 the last time I did a sleeve reinstall and that was on a Lotus V8 engine, and that was at the specific recommendation of Lotus. Stuff worked very well and has excellent heat operating properties. However on the Ferrari, I am thinking of placing the sealer at the upper end of the sleeve and the area where the o-ring sits. Any experience anyone can share with this?
     
  23. 4right

    4right F1 Rookie
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    Wow, I am gone for a couple of days and you already have everything taken apart.

    Sorry I cant help, however, I am enjoying your progress!
     
  24. Sean F.

    Sean F. F1 Rookie

    Feb 4, 2003
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    #50 Sean F., Jul 3, 2011
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2011
    Sell me that one for my motor and some cash. It's a '77 and right now bone stock. You're going to replace everything anyway. Win, Win, Win for everyone...(me, you and f-chat!).

    ;)
    EDIT: Crap, nevermind. You already have it apart! Damn!
     

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