Quattroporte III catch-all thread

I figured it was time to start a thread to collect all things QP3 in one place, and help us maintain these behemoths.

So let me start off with a few concrete questions:

1. my front end has started squeaking, before I go replacing parts I would like to lube all joints. In the service manual there are about 5 different greases mentioned, none of which I've seen in the local auto parts shop. Can anyone give a rundown and/or equivalent greases to be used? Am I correct in that the nipples are standard, or will I need some sort of adapter? Should the car be jacked up when lubing to remove the weight of the car from the suspension?

2. the engine belts look worn, but are not broken (yet). The service manual mentions a special tool to align the belts and pulleys. Where can one find these tools (they look like alignment jigs, more or less)? Is there any problem changing belts without the tools, or are they pretty much required to get everything right?

3. Has anyone had any problems with the Filter King fuel regulators/bowls? I noticed someone mentioned these failing in Ghiblis in a recent thread. I installed a fuel pressure gauge, which showed the proper 2.5psi initially, and then suddenly 6.5psi (!), even though the car seems to run fine. I'm not sure whether I should trust the gauge or not. The seller said that the gauge was *not* suitable for permanent installation, and I'd had it installed for over a month when it suddenly showed higher pressure.

Cheers,
Thor

1980 QP3 blu sera

 

Hi Thor

The most likely source of squeaking in the front suspension would be the lower ball joint followed by the upper ball joint. Most of these joints do not have a grease fitting. They are just packed with grease at assembly and are expected to be changed when they wear out. If you do have grease fittings on yours, any chassis grease would be suitable. The tie rod end might also get dry, but I think it would be less like to cause audible noise. Again, it is quite unusual to see one with a grease fitting. The inner ends of the suspension arms have metalastic bushings so no lube is needed nor possible.

I wouldn't worry about any special tools for the belts. Just change them using normal good practice. I do think that the plastic poly-flex belts used need to be run a little tighter than the standard belts. I try to find a balance between getting them tight enough and not so tight that there is excess side load on the bearings of the accessories that they drive. If the poly-flex belts slip, they will get hot and melt.

I was puzzled by your fuel pressure problem from an earlier post. I would double check the reading with another gauge or just try to adjust the regulator to see if it functions at all. A higher fuel pressure won't be a problem until it reaches the point that the float valve can no longer cope and the carburettor floods....poor running and FIRE HAZARD.

Aloha
Larry

 

Hello Larry / Thor...

Sorry I haven't posted for a while but when I got back from my latest business
trip my computer died... I was able to use my wife's (she let me briefly) to post
one message on the Khamsin thread, but that was it...

Anyway, I am back in business now and will begin reposting when I return from
this business trip in about 2 weeks...

But, I did find a place in Knoxville that will boil out my fuel tank (I know I promised
to post pictures!!).. Cost is about $85 per tank... Not bad in my opinion... But I
did notice a fuel filter (plastic) at the bottom of the tank that I will need to remove..
Anybody have any experience with this?

I will report some other stuff as time permits...

Hope all is well with you both and other fellow QPIII owners...

Mike

 

I just noticed that the lower link, or yoke that locates the hub on my rear suspension has been broken, and repaired with an ugly weld. Wondering if anyone may have a replacement?
Many Thanks, Fred
[email protected]

 

I think there is a set on sale on ebay now.

 

front end squeaking is usually from worn A arm bushings...

 

I would think something worn up front too as my first impression. While I don't want to take too much for granted, the entire front end was rebuilt only 3 years ago by the BPO (before previous owner). The PO only had the car for 3 years, and used it for trips in the countryside as far as I've been able to learn.

Would a brand new suspension wear out after only 3 years of use?

The other thing I noted was that when I went for a drive the other day it started raining, and the squeaking disappeared.

I'm going to put the car up on ramps and have a closer look underneath. I don't know if Maserati used parts that can be lubed, or sealed ones at this point in their production, although the owners and service manual both indicate points for lubing at regular intervals. So I hope to see telltale nipples placed strategically under the car for just such treatment.

Will let you know what I find.

(oh, and to follow up on the other things, the radio still doesn't work, and I haven't gotten any further in troubleshooting it, nor have I had the chance to order a new fuel filter/regulator, although I will soon).

Thor

 

Anyone know a cure for sagging/drooping sun visors? Is there a cam inside, or a friction sleeve or something that can be tightened, or is replacement the only option?

By sagging I mean when they're in the stowed position, the hand downwards a little instead of hugging the roof. I suppose a little bit of velcro could fix that... ;-)

Thor

 

Just wondering what this actually measures, how it works, and if I can safely ignore it. I don't think I've ever managed to drive the car with it in the green area unless coasting downhill or idling ;-).

it is rather distracting though, and makes me think I'm getting even worse mileage than I probably am. In that way I suppose it's served it's purpose....

Thor

 

Good question. I have never seen any that dont. I thought it was due to leather shrinkage over time but who knows.

 

It's just a vacuum gauge, I could never have it in the green even with the lightest throttle application to keep it at a constant speed. The car really need an overdrive.

 

Anyone know if there is a seal kit for these? Also, if anyone knows if this is a BMW unit or similar that may cross over. 1980 qIII
Thanks
Charles

 

Does anyone have the serial number range for each year of production?

Does anyone have information on how to decode the Vin Number and data tags etc.?

For example Year of Production or month of manufacture

Engine : 4.2 or 4.9 etc.

 

I can't believe that i didn't realize that the whole front suspension is off a pantera until my 3rd one.
I guess detomaso figured adding another 1000-1500 pounds to the front wouldnt matter ! lol... ok, the shocks and springs have a different rate... no wonder they don't last for more than a few years !

 

Try tightening, carefully, the 3 screws at the triangular base where the metal arm comes out. That did the trick for my '82 QP III. Tightening too much could crfack the plaric.

 

Been away on vacation, slowly getting back into the swing of things.

I'll try tightening the 3 mounting screws of the sun visor even more and see if that helps.

The squeaking from the front suspension comes and goes, it's silent in wet/rainy weather (although I rarely take the car out if it's raining), and seems worse when it's dry and sunny.

One other thing I've noticed after living with this car for a while, is that exhaust fumes are drawn in through the windows when driving, making it impossible to drive with the windows down. Does anyone else have this problem? We end up driving with the windows closed and either the air blower or A/C on to avoid getting headaches from the exhaust smell.

I seem to recall that the first XJ6's had the same problem, which is why you see the funny little bend at the tips of the exhaust of many XJ6's through the 60's and 70's.

Anyone else have this problem?

Thor

 

Someone asked me a while back which fuel pumps I have installed - I finally got to take a look, they are both Facet Universal electronic fuel pumps, made in U.S.A.

I've ordered a replacement Filter King fuel filter/regulator and hope it does the trick for the uneven fuel supply. Thanks to the good people here I went with the 82mm version (for greater filtration area, as Ivan pointed out).

Also, I'm looking into the defective speedometer, and understood from a poster that the sender from the transmission has a plastic gear that tends to strip out. I figured I'd check that first, and order a replacement if that's what's actually wrong. If not it will have to wait until I pull the transmission for an overhaul.

I've attached a picture - from the service manual it seems that this is the speedo sender cable/connection, can anyone verify it for me? If/when loosened, will I be doused in transmission fluid, or can i safely unscrew the fastening ring here to check the speedo sender unit? (see picture)

Also (for bonus points, ), I found something I didn't notice in the service manual drawings, attached to the transmission/throttle linkage under the car. It looks like some sort of adjustable something, but exactly what I don't know. Can anyone tell me what it is? Picture attached (bottom of the two).

Thanks!

Thor
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The photo on the left is the linkage which causes the car to go into "Passing Gear" when you really trounce on the accelerator.

You are correct about the 2nd item. That is the sending unit for the speedometer.

Mike

 

I'm going through and sorting out my 80' 4porte. Has anyone had their 727 torqueflite auto box rebuilt? Did the shops have issues in removal? I want to put a new front, rear and gear selector seals as a preventative measure as the previous 4portes I've had at one point or another have started to leak. I had a shop tell me then couldn't remove it unless it came out with the engine. Another option was to remove just the engine and access the front pump seal with trans in place.

Rear hub bearings: my service manual calls for the same Bearing cups for inner and outer... and I know it's a fit for the larger bearing but not the smaller one. Must be an error. Does anyone know what the other bearing cup is? JLM506810 is the cup listed from both innner and outer and the inner bearing is jlm104948, outer jlm506849.

Thanks all

Charles

 

A common problem with the odometer can be fixed quite easily. the gear is the same as a porsche as the speedo is an electronic VDO unit. The original gear just goes to jelly. U do have to remove the instrument cluster/guage pod and undo a couple of circlips to replace the gears. The gear for the 85 mph speedo was the 20/30 gear, probably the same for the 200mph version.
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If this is really the case, there is a complete Pantera suspension rebuild set on eBay for $99. Must be the deal of the year. The seller's name is Joedro, he's the owner of the Maserati Compound, I believe he's in Massachusetts.

Cheers,
Thor

 

Nope, didn't help.

Other suggestions, besides buying new ones?

Thor

 

Hi Mike,

now I'm confused - is it possible you reversed the images in your statement here?

From the service manual, it looks like the speedo connects directly to the transmission housing, right beside the linkage arm. The second (right) picture with the weird appendage and adjuster, I'm not sure what is. Are you sure that's where the speedo cable connects from the instrument cluster?

Also, when/if I loosen the nut on the transmission housing (first/left picture), am I going to be doused in transmission fluid, or will it stay in the transmission where it belongs?

Cheers,
Thor

 

I've had 2 shops offer to help me remove and install it (for $1k), and according to the service manual you do need to loosen the engine mounts, but only enough to allow tilting the engine slightly to get enough clearance to drop the transmission. Same for installation.

The recommendations I've received all say to do a standard/full overhauling, all seals, bands, gaskets, etc, along with installing a shift kit and different ratio kick-down. The super heavy duty stuff you see on some rebuild kits are intended for drag racers and not necessary. It also appears that the torque converter is Maserati's own, not standard Chrysler. I would expect this can be rebuilt/brazed/balanced by any competent shop.

Hopefully someone who's actually done this job will jump in here any second and let us know how to avoid all the mistakes we're inevitably going to make ;-).

Cheers,
Thor

 

Thor,
The ball joints and and bushings for the front are the same, but the funny thing is that the ball joints are cheaper through MIE than any Pantera place.