The engine is comming out for a major service and it is time to fix some other stuff as well. Anyone got experience how to change these seals?
Its very easy. The output flanges need to be removed and that can be done with a steering wheel puller then the seals are just like a conventional wheel bearing grease seal.
They may also be leaking if the drive hub retaining bolts were not put in with sealant. They need sealant around when reinstalling to ensure no leaks and the splines of the drive hub also need to be sealed with some sealant like Tribond. If your engine is out you may as well pull the diff side covers off (one at a time) and replace the large O rings.They are cheap and refit those with some rubber grease. That makes it easier to also replace the axle seals and ensure a good straight fitment of the seals.
Thank you guys for all input. I think i will change the large o-ring as well as suggested by testamon. Does anyone have the part# for the seals and o-rings? The car is a 1988.5 (US).
I will post part #'s, address and pix of seals later today that are readily available and cost about $6......items just arrived and are at home! Post later Me
The upper part is from a hardware store and the bottom part is a custom part welded together by a friend of mine. Works great.
If you could get some "close-up" pix of those it would be great. Thanks for your time and consideration Pingo! Need a closer look Me
I have now removed the drive shaft on the left side of the transmission. The next step is to remove the bolt securing the flange to the diff. How do i go about this. Impact gun/wrench? The axel/diff. just turns when I try to loosen the bolt. Is the bolt threaded the normal way/direction?
Just use an impact.......rotation is counter-clockwise to remove. If you need seals and/or o-rings.....I have full sets available for a fraction of the "normal" cost (o-ring for each side cover and seals) Got seals and O's Me
The impact gun did the trick, no problem to get the bolt out. Next question; how do I get the side cover off? I have removed the nuts securing the cover to the housing and the bolt that sits at the top inside the "tunnel".
The LHS carrier will only come out if you have removed your quill shaft which runs through the carrier. If you have not just take off the bell housing and the shaft will pull out from the box.Tapp with a soft hammer all around to loosen the 'seal'. It should come loose. Do one side at a time and the other bearing carrier will tend to hold the diff in position.
Bumping this thread. Finnaly got some time to work on the TR again. Removed the bell housing and pulled out the quill shaft. The left side diff. cover will now move about 8 - 10 mm. before it's stuck. Am I missing something here?? I have studied this drawing: http://www.eurospares.co.uk/userImages/006/Large/006_030.gif, but cannot see what I am doing wrong. So help is needed guys..
Help!! Is the oil conveyor (#45) boltet to the diff. side cover (#13) ? http://www.eurospares.co.uk/userImages/006/Large/006_030.gif
I answered in your PM but ill say it here as well. There is a splash shield bolted to the edge of that cover next to the crown gear. You would have to remove the rear motor mount adaper cover to access that shield. I suspect thats whats hanging up.
