Great work Paul. I am beyond impressed. You may have answered this before, so apologies in advance, but is the Boxer significantly more complicated than the 308 you did? Or just 50% more cylinders and all other bits accordingly? The car is going to be great. Have you dared to set a completion date?
Its more complicated, there are so many more fasteners. The additional cylinders adds cost at the machine shop as well as parts of course but its more time consuming in general and less forgiving. For example, I rebuilt the water pump, if it leaks im up the creek. On a 308 it sucks but its not the end of the world to re and re it again. It'll sit on pressure test for a couple of days before the engine goes in. The gearbox has been apart and back together as well as the carbs, distributor and so on. Ive gone through every sub system on the back half of this car and now its all coming together. Im looking forward to the intial start-up and finally the shake down. No completion date just as soon as possible. I have the Dino sitting here that im either working on or waiting for parts on so I go back to the boxer if its on hold. I have more work coming this fall so I cant doodle around when I feel like it. I have two more boxers lined up, one may end up as deep as this carbed car.
Paul do you have access to an engine dyno? Great way to get rings seated under controlled conditions, do the run in and "dynamic" leak testing Especially on a midengine car, I'd think an engine dyno run before the motor goes back in would give you a lot of peace of mind......
Subscribed! Would you be willing to share specifics on the pistons, or is this something JE would reproduce in house for others? Would most likely be interested in these when time comes for our 512bb to come apart. I lost track of your other thread - are you doing any cam/valvetrain mods from stock?
I have access to one, debating running it but these drysumps are a pain. I would love to know the driveline losses. If I dont run it on an engine dyno Ill still be running it on a chassis dyno. You can just order pistons from JE directly. You can order off the shelf I suppose or be very specific about the dimensions / ring style / pin location / coatings etc.... Stainless steel ferrea valves, stock ports, stock carbed cams as per the owner. Mine on the other hand will get cams, head work, Ti rods, JE pistons and some CIS massaging. Image Unavailable, Please Login
No date just ASAP! Dont worry its coming along great I got in a bunch of time today. Hey Murry pay close attention to the timing belt drive pulleys. Like those brake line pics I sent lol! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Progress stopped briefly because when I check fitted the cams I wasnt happy with the amount of drag so the cam journals had to be reamed. The 1-6 intake cam and the 7-12 exhaust cam was too tight but i did all four cam bores and I was surprised at the number of journals that were out of alignment. So today I put the cams back in and timed the engine, next ill set the lash, put on a few more parts then get back to the gearbox carrier. After that the engine gets mounted to the gearbox. I replaced the timing belt tensioners and the springs. Side by side shot shows how much shorter the springs can get over time. Theyre pretty cheap and cant hurt while you're there, might also help the DIYer to get the right tension. The lines on the cams line up with the caps but ill double check with a degree wheel and indicator then adjust of need be. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Double checked the cam timing and found the one bank off. I pulled the cam gears and pins then pretty much used trial and error to get the pins and marks to line up once the belt was installed. Whats funny about this is it just had the belts done but the valve covers were not removed, the cams and seals had paint lines on them to set the timing essentially repeating the timing error. If the heads and or block are machined, it has the same effect as running a slightly longer timing belt. The cams get closer to the crank after decking so the side effect is retarded cam timing. I didnt machine the heads or the block but they had been machined in the past so the timing has been off for quite some time but its corrected now. Set the valve lash on all 24 valves Moved back to the gearbox where I put the carrier support studs back in but the supports are not detailed to match the gearbox case yet. I installed the carrier minus the crown gear so I could check the carrier bearing preload prior to checking my backlash and gear pattern. You cant check carrier preload with the crown gear on so you have to re and re it at least twice to do it right and to know with certainty what the drag is. With the side covers on you can then use a needle style torque wrench to see what the rotating drag is, not break away torque which will be higher. I went by feel because Ive done countless diffs in rear axles both cast iron and aluminum housings as well as diffs in transaxles. Tapered roller bearings all need to operate under load to last, its easy to tell if one is too tight or too loose once you know what to look for. I installed the crown gear on the new carrier with the updated crown gear bolts. They have teeth on the underside of the head so they bite in and dont back off. I chose to use the lock tabs to protect the carrier machined surface from scaring with the new bolts. A drop of locking compound to the threads along with the serated bolts - they're not going to back off. Ill post my findings after I check the pattern. Hoping I luck out because I dont really want to reshim this. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Valve covers stripped and recoated, turned out great! Really love the wrinkle finish. Motor mount brackets done. I was working on setting up the crown and pinion, I need shims. I took a sample to a local machine shop to have an assortment of shims laser cut and ground in .002" increments for now and later projects (my boxer included) then ill finish up the box. Carbs are rebushed but in pieces so ill be putting them back together with photos, curious to see what jets are in them. Ill be removing the boxer front bumper (something Gleggy doesnt have ) for refinishing so ill include shots of that process as well. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Paul, Really looks great, I will have some pics soon of the 308 (358) rebuild. I've been slowed by another project but will return to it soon. John
I now have a BB one from the U.K. and I'm thinking of flopping a mould off of it for the future so I'll be a ble to replace it at will. Bloody Canadians.
Took a break from the boxer after getting the bumper painted and back on. I had an assortment of gearbox side support shims made up in .002" increments for now and later down the road. I set it up today and arrived at .005" backlash (spec is just under .005 to just under .007) and the pattern is very good. When I checked it before teardown, it had no backlash that I could detect yet it was quiet on the road and theres no gear wear concerns. Depth on the drive side is a tad over middle heading to the center of the crown gear which is the way I would want it so its centered under driving conditions. Coast side is excellent too. Yes I put too much marking compound on, I gave the tube a squeeze and it upchucked all over the gear lol. Anyway, the pattern is good, ill clean it up and move to the shift linkage, pump and so on. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Detailed the carrier support covers, installed new o-rings and reinstalled them. Moved onto the shift linkage and forks next. Gleggy was kind enough to make me his version of the detent ball tool for aligning the shift rods. For those who dont know, the detent balls combined with the syncro slippers (and dog teeth taper) are what hold the selected gear in gear and keep it from popping out. If the indents in the shafts arent lined up before you set fork position, the gear will pop out or not fully engage if you're really off on your setting. The 2 bullets and small pin (lockout mechanism) work together shuttling back and forth in the case as the shafts move during gear changes, as they move side to side they block the other two shafts from unwanted movement preventing two gears from engaging at the same time. Sometimes when you select a gear quickly during hard driving or theres an alignment issue, worn bushings in shifter linkage etc, the selector tab can grab two fingers and move two shafts at the same time. The lockout mechanism saves the gearbox from major destruction, simple but effective. After aligning the shafts, align each for by centering them in the syncros then adjust the fingers, finally install the main selector shaft and install the side cover. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
