Local shop for to install a timsert/helicoil? | FerrariChat

Local shop for to install a timsert/helicoil?

Discussion in 'Northwest' started by greggbferrari, Jul 12, 2011.

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  1. greggbferrari

    greggbferrari Karting

    Jan 4, 2010
    121
    Seattle, WA
    Full Name:
    Gregg Brown
    Hello all. Starting to work down the list on the 308GT4. First up was a gusher of an oil drain leak, which I discovered was caused by a PO or PM installed SAE plug.

    Long stroy short, I have the pan out and I need to get an insert installed. There's a recommended shop on the east coast, but does anyone know of somebody who can do it locally?

    (After this a 30K +. Then I'll be back on the road.)

    Gregg
     
  2. windsock

    windsock Formula 3
    Rossa Subscribed

    Nov 29, 2006
    1,129
  3. Jalpa_Mike

    Jalpa_Mike F1 Rookie

    Apr 2, 2004
    3,019
    Sequim
    Full Name:
    Michael Wilson
    AutoSport in Seattle has an excellent machine shop:
    http://www.autosportseattle.com/

    Mike
     
  4. zippyslug31

    zippyslug31 Formula 3

    Sep 28, 2007
    2,075
    PDX
    Full Name:
    Kevin M.
    Not difficult to do. I did this repair on my 360.
    The kit was sort of pricey considering what you get (about $100) but it worked out well.

    Too bad you aren't closer; my kit came with extras and, assuming the 360 is the same size, would help you fix yours.
    Not sure what size of plug your 308 has though.
     
  5. zippyslug31

    zippyslug31 Formula 3

    Sep 28, 2007
    2,075
    PDX
    Full Name:
    Kevin M.
    BTW, pretty sure I bought my kit at a local Napa so they should be easily obtainable.
     
  6. tr0768

    tr0768 Formula Junior

    Oct 28, 2008
    736
    Lake Stevens Washington
    Full Name:
    Howard Musolf
    I have a full assortment of Time Serts with the tools and "serts". Call me and we can get together and do the job in less than an hour. We use Time Serts all the time in our Subaru Service Centers and have never had one fail. The most common use of a sert is for head studs in Subaru's or case inserts for cylinders in VWb's and Porsches

    Do not use Helicoils as they are reall only a slinky with no strength and often pull out with little or no effort. Then you will be doing the job again.

    Serts are the approved way of installing "threads" in an aluminum part. Approved by Subaru Porsche, Volkswagen and other automotive manufactures.

    Send me an email if you want to do this, [email protected].

    Howard Musolf
    1981 308gtsi
    1982 400i Cabriolet
    1988 Lotus Esprit Turbo
    Maserati Spider
    2 many brass era cars
     
  7. greggbferrari

    greggbferrari Karting

    Jan 4, 2010
    121
    Seattle, WA
    Full Name:
    Gregg Brown
    #7 greggbferrari, Jul 13, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I really appreciate the help. I'll report back on how it works out. Here's a shot of the damage--remember kids, tightening has never stopped a leak!
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  8. windsock

    windsock Formula 3
    Rossa Subscribed

    Nov 29, 2006
    1,129
    While I agree for most applications a time cert is prefered over a helicoil. Done properly a helicoil is stronger then the original aluminum threads and should never fail. In this application a Helicoil would be prefered and later model 328 came from the factory with the stainless steel helicoil installed for this very reason. We have seen several time cert repairs on these and other thin pans fail due to cracks spreading out from the four anchoring pins that lock the time cert in place. These castings are fragile and brittle and tend to crack rather easily. I sent another PM with an updated phone number. Phone issues yesterday, sorry. I look forward to meeting you and helping with your project.
     
  9. BMWairhead

    BMWairhead Formula 3

    Sep 11, 2009
    1,052
    Portland, OR
    Full Name:
    Ted
    I agree...both Timeserts and Helicoils have their place...as do BigSerts, etc. Helicoils can be stacked or trimmed...making them very versatile. I've seen all of them fail...usually from unrealistic expectation (wrong choice) or from poor installation.
     
  10. synchro

    synchro F1 Veteran

    Feb 14, 2005
    9,294
    CHNDLR
    Full Name:
    Scott
    Check with Ferrari of Seattle, I'll bet they've got a solution
     
  11. greggbferrari

    greggbferrari Karting

    Jan 4, 2010
    121
    Seattle, WA
    Full Name:
    Gregg Brown
    #11 greggbferrari, Aug 18, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Thanks to Mark from FOS for jumping on the thread and helping me fix the part. It was a pleasure working them and it looks great. BTW they recommend 40ft-lb tourque--I started with 35. Here's a shot of the resulting threads.
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  12. flyngti

    flyngti Formula 3

    Jul 16, 2009
    1,237
    Snohomish, WA
    Full Name:
    Eric L
    Good job. The threads look great. Does that mean your GT4 is back on the road?
     
  13. greggbferrari

    greggbferrari Karting

    Jan 4, 2010
    121
    Seattle, WA
    Full Name:
    Gregg Brown
    Almost. To tell you the truth I haven't had the nerve to put oil in it yet. :)
    This weekend for sure!
     
  14. dinogts

    dinogts Formula 3
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    And?
     
  15. greggbferrari

    greggbferrari Karting

    Jan 4, 2010
    121
    Seattle, WA
    Full Name:
    Gregg Brown
    Put it all back together with Permatex Aviation Form-a-gasket on bith sides of the paper gasket and it seems to hold. I've started a thread in the 308 section about the overall teardown for a "major". I hope I can get the rest of the oil leaks under control.

    By the way, anyone in Seattle have the socket for the airpump and cam drives that I can buy/rent/borrow? I was about to call Baum tools so if no one has one we'll have one in the area soon.

    I'm also trying to import one of the Draper ball-type bearing removers from the UK. ( http://www.drapertools.com/b2c/b2citmdsp.pgm?pp_skmno=43137&ipadd= ) I want to replace the cam belt drive outer bearings.

    Thanks again for the help, Gregg
     

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