Viper Driver how did you get the core out? Is it just one bolt holding these in, then remove the two water hose lines? Just sent my radiator out for recore and am changing out the hoses...
Yes, just the one bolt and remove the two water lines. I didn't take the right side out as my AC lines were in the way and I didn't want to disturb them since the AC has been working for over a year now with no leaks! Really no reason to remove the entire core just to replace the filters. The end cap just snaps on.
Thanks for posting this. I have had the same problem. Black crud blowing all other the interior in my car too (86-328). A real pain. Looks like it's past due...
Total freak'n nightmare! If that happened to me, I think my wife wouldn't come near the car ever again.
I have to admit that before this thread I never knew these filters even existed. By the time I got to doing the resto on this area of the car, my filters had long since disintegrated and been sucked through the heater cores and distribution hoses. I looked at all the used heater boxes they had a FerrParts and the first picture below was the most evidence I could find that these filters ever existed... so I guess my case is not that unusual. I had Keegan order a set of the filters and unfortunately it looks like the original part (60151909) was superseded to part 40295404 which was also not available and in turn superseded to 40295400 which was shipped by MC. Keegan said he thought this was the filter used on the GT4. Rather than a thin open foam this is a very fine copper screen. Unfortunately, as you can see the screen itself is not supplied in the same dimension as the heater core. Has anyone encountered this? If so I'd like to get other's ideas on mounting these filters. I am just planning to fold the excess over the edges and tape the top and bottom of the screen with a plumber's tape that is designed for heat cycles. Any thoughts? Rick Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
WTF??? Just go to an AC Supply and cut a piece of bulk material to match the housing........cut up a 20" x 20" from Lowes, worst case..... Air filters are air filters...... I'm in the same place, Toyota gets huge $$ for the "Cabin Air filter" until I saw one.....
A larger concern is blasting all that old material out of the coil......there's a foaming cleaner that does that.
Alan, yes the crap was cleaned out of the cores and the cores were washed in mild acid and the fins straightened. The cost on these screens is literally dirt cheap (<$10 for a pair) so there is no huge issue using the factory part. Hell, the copper screen may even last longer. Rick
From the picture in the OP, 1) What is the best way to get access to part "24" (through the spare tire well?), and 2) How is it secured to the car? I noticed that mine is totally disconnected and rolling around in the front of the car
If you take the front wheel off, you can pull the cover plate at the leading edge of the wheel well and get to that blower. Usually, if it's loose, it's because all the mounting tabs have broken off. In which case, you have to buy a new blower. I epoxied and fiberglassed one for a friend and it broke again inside a month. rick
This is the factory suggestion... I use two media both sourced from a AC company Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
After seeing this thread come back to life I decided to change out my filters with new ones that were sent to me by Carl Rose a few years back. It was an easy job that I should have done years ago. In addition to the disintegrated filters I found a bunch of junk to vacuum out. On to the next project.
I got in there today and changed what was left of my heater filters and vacuumed out all the dirt and leaf debris. When I tested it out and turned on the supplemental fans I felt air blow on my feet on the drives side but not on the passenger side. Upon further inspection I found out that both of my fans are located on the driver side and there is a small radiator on the passenger side, however there is a section of duct that connects to the air box (number 23 on the schematic in this threads first post) that is just loose behind the right headlight housing. My car is a 1986 328-GTS. Does anyone have the schematic for this year car so I can figure out how to route the duct across the spare tire bay and hook it up to the fan? Thanks Kim
Here is the schematic with the fans on each side of the front wheel well. My car has fan #3 just behind and slightly to the outside of fan #24. Hope this is clear??? Image Unavailable, Please Login
This is in response to the problem of blower motor mounting brackets breaking off. Apparently this is a common problem as both of my blower motors were rolling around inside of the front wheel wells. After removing the wheel and guard you will be able to follow this simple procedure to change the brackets to metal. I did this a year ago and didn't really expect to post it here so the pictures are not the greatest and may not ne in the right order but here goes. 1. The motor assembly can be completely removed by disconnecting the two electrical cables and hose. Once disconnected, a slight juggling will allow the assembly to pass the stabilizing bracket and come completely out 2. The plastic motor assembly is held together by several metal clips (I think 6). These clips can be easily pried off...just watch you eyes as they can go flying. Once removed the assembly breaks apart into two pieces (motor and shroud) 3. I used a Dremel tool to cut off any remaining pieces of the old plastic brackets to allow a flat surface for the new metal brackets to rest 4. The new "L" brackets can be found at any hardware store and are mounted using a small bolt, nut and lock washer. The head of the bolt is placed on the inside so not to contact the spinning fan blade. (there is actually quite a lot a room between the shroud and fan blade so not to worry about making it as flush as I did) 5. Now that the new brackets are in place, the assembly goes back together using the same metal clips 6. Now install back in the car. Depending on the size of brackets you installed, you might have to drill another hole in the cars mounting bracket to line up with you new ones but it should be easy to figure out 7. Now do the other side...I bet they are broken as well Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Good job. This is a common problem and others (myself included) have done similar fixes: http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=267911
All, You have to love the Italian designers. With the placement of these blowers maybe they were using the Ferrari's as vacuums to keep the Italian roads clean.
not sure where your schematic came from. this is the one for my 87. The hose from the blower on the drivers side to the pax side heater box runs across the front of the spare tire bay under the cover. Above the battery close to the the top of well between the radiator opening and the spare tire compartment. Does that make sense? i can try to drum up a photo if needed Image Unavailable, Please Login
Excellent! That is just what I needed to see. Thanks for sharing. Do you know where I can get a later model (1986 would be best or 87-89 would do) service manual with these type drawings? Kim
chris, flyin', everyone, thanks for the posts. Great to see a few ways of reattaching. I will probably reattach mine in a few months once the hot days are behind us.
I changed the screen/filter material in front of the 2 fans (#12) last year, but not the ones at the heater boxes, those are now on the next "to do" list.
We have had some good threads where the housong was repaired with the attachement of a new aluminum sheet over the whole face of the fan housing, worked great! The new ones will break too, from the design defect. The metal sheet is a permanaent fix, IMO.
There's a Tech Bulletin to delete the intakes scoops mating forward. They indeed worked a little TOO well!
