Trailering the 355

I use straps through the control arms back and front. I guess you could use the tow hook for the front but I don't like using any of the original stuff from the tool kit. I do tie down each corner and have not had a problem. I always go front first as it is not as wide when passing between the wheel "humps" and it is easier on the F1 clutch.

 

When I had mine flat-bedded once, the driver said that he uses the holes under the frame that are covered with large removable rubber stoppers. He had put the hooks into these points when he fastened down the car.

 

I do not know much about it, but to be safe and smart...have you ever checked into your auto insurance to make sure they cover your car while you are towing it?

With a price piece possession like that, I would make sure it is!

 

Hmm, I'll have to look for those covers next time I trailer mine. The Viper was sinfully easier to strap with those slots in the frame, angled and all.


Rob

 

Safest way is straps through the wheel spokes with light tie down and use one wheel chock front and one wheel chock rear on any one wheel. the chock prevents the car from moving and the straps from racking back and forth on the wheels and damaging the finish. Hard tie down on control arms can bend them. Leave out of gear. Also use a bungie cord on each side of the chocks so as the car initially rolls a small about back and forth the cocks cinch into the tire and locks the car rock solid. I use this method all the time on my race car and on my past 348 race car.

 

I have transported many cars on my trailer. I think the best way is to get tie down straps that go over the tires. Then there is no risk of damage to the body, chassis or suspension.

 

Agreed, I want to instal EZ-Trak in my trailer someday. It is the best way to secure the car and it's easy too.


Rob

 

There is a reason that way is not popular. Often on low sports cars the straps do rub the paint unless the conch points are in the right place. When your car is like an SUV straps over tires works very well and allows the suspension to freely articulate.

 

I own the transport company, been doing this along time, the best way is over the tires. If you use any chassis parts you can bend them, seen this done before. If you use the factory slots on the frame, you can pull the hooks through the frame or at least bend where the frame holes are at, seen this done. If you go through the wheel spokes, you will/can polish the spot where the strap touches the rim, seen this done. You don't want this car to move at all, no back and forth, only up and down, in our semi we don't want someone running a stop sign and then the police/dot writing up a report for insurance to see that says load not secured properly, that could mean no cargo coverage and that could mean your car that is now off the trailer is your problem. We're enclosed so if you are enclosed also then we cover the cars with thin plastic and a soft cover to keep any dust off of them, depends on how far you are going or if that's a concern but don't cover if it's on an open trailer, will rub the paint right off, seen this many times. If you can run the strap buckle out to the front and out the back so it doesn't touch the car, if room is tight and you need to run the strap so the metal buckle is under the door put soft towels between the body and the strap, the car will rock back and forth and hit. This is what we do with cars we want to look the same going in as coming out, like was said earlier, race cars are harder to hurt, we race in NASCAR as well, both hauling our team cars and working on them.