Magnetic pulse electronic ignition on a 308

Adrian,
You are quite right re the bosch coil,it is 0 221 119 030 my error!
I bought my 79 GT4 in 2009 and it had the MM coils with no resistor so I renewed with the Bosch coils.(no resistor)
I have a suspicion that the Standard HEI LX 301T modules may be the problem they are quite cheap compared to the Accell modules.
Geoff

 

So the current setup is 2x LX301T + Bosch Red, correct? And the issue with that setup are sooted plugs? What were the issues before with the BAE207A coils, or did you just exchange them to be sure?

 

I swapped the MM coils because the Reds were considered a better/newer coil!!!(FChat advice!)
The LX301T modules were standard as far as I know!
The plugs were black before I replaced the coils and after!
When I install some Accel modules I will know more I think.
Geoff

 

You probably checked this but if the plugs were already black before exchanging parts (and NGK 5's are quite hot already) it might be that your carbs are set up too rich?

The Bosch Red coils combined with the Bosch resistors are an excellent replacement for the 308's points setup original Marelli coils, but for a more powerful transistor ignition like the AEI200 you might want to exchange them against two of the recommended coils which can take the higher current. The Bosch red coils won't mind running several test drives with the Accel modules though, i just wouldn't use them for months or a year in that combination due to overheating.

The Accel HEI module delivers 5.9A at 7500 RPM/4cyl (two modules, each one running one bank=4cyl), that should be quite sufficient for a healthy spark.

good luck,
Adrian

 

Hi again Adrian,
I have leaned the carbs to 1 and a 1/2 turns out and still get mainly black plugs!
Your point about about the red coils is interesting re points ignition.
I still have the original 207A coils,so the Accel modules should be a good combination!
Thanks Geoff

 

That should most likely fix the weak spark issue!

 

I will be buying a couple of Flamethrower coils,whats the difference between the chrome 40001 and the black 40011 performance wise?
I am leaning towards the black 20011 to replace the MM BAE 207A coils.Are they oil or epoxy filled?

 

That magnetic pick up will easily trigger an MSD or Accel capacitative discharge ignition box and paired with an MSD Blaster coil give you a very hot spark, with multiple strikes.

 

They are identical except the finish, both coils are oil filled for better heat transfer.

 

I’m hoping you can help me, I see you are living in Ireland and I see you are well up on your Ferraris, I am living in Ireland and looking for someone that is a independent Ferrari specialised to work on my 355. Any help would be grate.

 

Hi was reading your post what did you end up with. VR pickup, Accel module, and what coil did you use i have the same problem with black soot plugs using NGK Iridium bpr7eix. I have a single dizzy electronic. Thanks

 

Hi sorry for the late reply,Ahlbin was close to the mark with the improved parts.
The Accell modules and Flame thrower coils have significantly improved performance.
I am using BP5ES plugs and the mixture screws are 1 and 3/4 turns out.
The plugs are not sooting up,so far,performance is improved!
I have not installed the new magnetic pickups yet.Beck Arnley market them!

 

I guess this is more for Adrian, But would be good if someone knew the answer!
My car has been playing me up something rotten would seem to start but run as if on even less than four cylinders! ......long story short fitted duff BSM igntion system bought from very reliable source but after all it was S/H.....any way.
So i then tested the original system (as above x2 as each system does 4 cylinders)system and all seemed to read ok but replace both ignition coils and both VR amplifiers for peace of mind (both sensors and leads were replaced a couple of years ago and tested ok any way.
Car still horrid with very weak spark on 1-4 and nothing on 5-8 at all.
We swapped over sensor leads but to no avail........in fact we did so much messing around for 5 hours last night i think we actually dissapeared up our own proverbials!
The one thing that now comes to mind is the Capacitor........it has a 2.2 microfarad with a working voltage of 110 and a temp of 110 degrees Centigrade and has ASK (by the looks of things) stamped on it.
Any one have an idea?
I attatched it to this post because on the schematic Adrian posted the capacitor is marked in red and it says on the drawing to see notes relating to this......but they arent there!
So i guess it is important to get the right one.
Regards
Graham
Damm i just noticed that it doesnt show the drawing as attatched in Adrians Post #20

 

Hi Graham,

the 2.2uF capacitor is just for the radio noise suppression, you can safely remove it.
If you want to, you could send me your dist/ignition for checking.

Best,
Adrian

 

Hi Graham,
My thinking is that capacitor is purely for the benefit of the Rev Counter & not part of the actual ignition system? Although, my track record on this subject does not qualify me to comment...

All the best
Andy

 

Adrian, Thanks, Thats the end of that eureka moment!
I really appreciate your kind offer of sending the system to you......that would be a large parcel Berlin bound!
It may well come to that but i will persevere for now.
I have another theory.....When you put an Ohmeter set to 1 ohm across the output of each sensor lead (the plug that goes to each VR module) you get almost full scale deflection of the meter and when you turn the dizzy so that the "chopper" wheel lines up with the proximity switches you then get FSD........Should the iron chopper wheel be heavily magnetised? (it is) and if the proximity switch isnt fully going open circuit would this not enable the coils not to charge fully before discharging......hence week or no spark......but the strobe light still flashing on all HT leads?

 

The VR sensor does not change the resistance (ohm) but outputs a voltage signal similar to a sine wave. The ignition module mounted on the bottom triggers on the sine wave signal crossing zero, it controls the dwell (coil charge) length independently of the VR sensor signal. You would need a scope and a current clamp to check the VR sensor and coil charge unfortunately.

Any chance the VR sensor wire polarity for bank 1-4 got mixed up?
Do you get a spark from the king wire going to the dist for 1-4?

 

Thanks Adrian, the answer is no to both the above....If i were to obtain an oscilloscope would you be able to guide me through what to look for/
Graham

 

Sure, happy to help! With a scope you would compare the VR output signals for Bank 1-4 and Bank 5-8 to make sure the polarity is correct and the signal is identical while turning the starter.

Just to be sure, when you wire up the AEI200/coil from Bank 1-4 to the Bank 5-8 VR sensor then the AEI200/coill works as expected or does it still delivery a weak spark? What happens if the 'good' AEI200/coil from Bank 5-8 is wired to the VR sensor for Bank 1-4, does that work and deliver a strong spark?

 

Rope from garage roof averted!!!
Guess what....... A duff VR amplifier, brand new from Superformance was the culprit!!
Jeez you just dont want/ need that kind of grief.....imagine you are abroad travelling around with your "trusty" spares pack!!........I am really pi**ed off with manufactures these days...thats a day of both mine and my knowledgable friend Tony Lands time wasted......and what do you get.......a shrug of the shoulders and a sorry!
Please accept my Rant......I am off to bang one out!!!

 

Frustrating is the word, good job I am not in the garage if your going to bang one out ))

 

Good to hear that you fixed it! Agree, that should not happen with a brand new ignition module.