Help.... big time

Where are you located?

 

Sounds like you have a crank sensor playing out at a very inopportune time.

Plug wires (come in sets of four by side), cap and rotor sound legit, except caps are repairable on the older cars, not sure on injected ones???

Fuel pump....well it's pretty old by now. There's tons of info here on them as the OEM pump is not available so bone up on what to do!

Tons of experts here ( not me!) so glad you found us to check in!!!
We'll get it all sorted.

 

The new fuels are really playing heck with rubber parts, probably what killed your pump....maybe you have had some system contamination, and rubber get into your injectors??

You may need to pull and clean/test them, if its cheaper than just ordering a new set of 8?

 

Needs more troubleshooting.... could be several different things. Seems like a bum deal though that it wasn't properly diagnosed for that sort of money.

Common ailments are the crank sensors, O2 protection relay and grounds on the magneti marelli ignitions boxes in the trunk. Also want to look at the ignition coils.

 

Black is correct for an 85 Qv.

 

+1 if yours is a US version 308QV; if an '85 euro 308QV (and "converted" to US) it might have either.

'84-'85 US 308 and US 328 both use K-Jet with Lambda CIS injection. Having a CIS fuel pump problem cause a low power symptom seems unlikely to me also (but not impossible).

You don't have to name names, but is this a shop that claims to know F well?

 

Given your location and the fact that you referred to a Ferrari mechanic that does restorative work, I am going to assume you took the car to the Black Horse Garage in Bridgeport Connecticut. If you did, I am really troubled to hear of your problems. They have a very good reputation and do some pretty impressive work. However, it has been years since I have used them for anything, so things can certainly change. If this is not the shop you took your car too, I would probably recommend them if you are looking for someone very local to you.

That being said, there are much better shops IMHO, but they are going to require you to travel a bit.

The closest top drawer mechanic that I can think of close to you, would be Classic Coach Repair in Elizabeth New Jersey.

Another mechanic you may want to consider would be Fchat sponsor Wil de Groot's Exoticars USA in Milford, NJ. I have no personal experience with them whatsoever, but have been impressed with the limited work I have seen from their shop.

Good luck!

 

Maybe its time to get a second opinion from another shop, and a first opinion from a lawyer.

A banana in a tailpipe would be a good thing, you would have your answer. It's the straightened bananas you need to watch out for.

 

pm me I have a contact in ct that can help. I think I know what is wrong with your car.

 

You live very close to the best there is!

Bill Pollard of Sport Auto in Gaylordsville, CT. 860-350-1515

He is honest and won't rip you off either!

Tell him Frank from Yonkers sent you.

 

I second this recommendation, never met him in person but he has a well known reputation. He has been helpful to me over the phone talking about distributors.

http://www.merchantcircle.com/business/Sportauto.by.Bill.Pollard.860-350-1515

Rob

 

Get a new mechanic, this place is bleeding you with their incompetence. They clearly dont have a clue as to what they are doing.

Jim

 

Plus one (or is it two now?) on the crank sensor. Like $100 and leave your fingers bloody stumps when your done getting your hand in and out several times but it's a good hurt.

 

Looks like you are getting lots of GOOD suggestions from some of FChats most knowlegable minds!!!

Great responses guys!!!


Thats why I love this place!!!!!





PDG

 

If you want to go North, John Tirrell at IFS (Independent Ferrari Service) in southeastern Mass can fix it. From over 10 years of working on my 328, I've found him honest, and he'll fix it right. ifsferrari.com

 

As I understand it, John and Bill Pollard went to "Ferrari School" together. Had my 30k (and more) done by Bill, September of last year. Great guy and very knowledgeable. Great staff too. Does lots of vintage work.

Highly recommended.

 

Great suggestion from what I have been told. Oops. I can't believe I forgot him!

 

It's not impossible for these cars to have series of problems. Sometimes past fixes are band aids for other problems and they can be layered on making a big project for a tech looking to put a car right. However it sounds like you are right to look for a second opinion at this time. Good luck with the car. Did you ever own the car where it really ran perfectly?

 

+100. It also can't hurt to get the second opinion of a well respected mechanic.


When it comes to these cars, it is so important to have a positive working relationship with your mechanic, if, rightly or wrongly, you no longer trust him, its time to move on IMHO.

 

Fox,

With Bill you will be his priority, since he will treat you the same as he treats his oldest customer. Sport Auto is not your typical client relationship...once you get to know Bill you will never look elsewhere.

Bill always does the "right thing" by me and I will never go anywhere else. He works with another master mechanic named Shaun. I can't speak highly enough about them.

I am treated as a friend by them both and believe me when I tell you that I am not a big spender there with my 308!

 

So if you have this part replaced and it doesn't fix the problem, what is going to be their next guess? If you are not a priority and they are charging you a few grand to throw parts at your car, it's time for a second opinion.

Jim

 

The '85 308 CIS is virtually identical to the early 328s; K-Jetronic w/Lambda, and has a black fuel distributor. That he doesn't appear know this is a red flag. He's probably using the wrong test criteria too; probably for the pre-84 non-Lambda or Euro QVs. And a proper fuel pressure test (stone cold and warm) would have shown whether the (warm up) regulator is functioning. Ask him for the results. I hate to be suspicious but it appears he's getting on-the-job training on your engine, and using trial and error instead of real diagnosis.