3.4L project

I absolutely measured it by the above method. The photo was for those who weren't sure what I was talking about which was why I did not show the figures on the measuring device as they would be totally wrong!

 

If I am reading their cam timing sheet correctly, this cam manufacturer times their cams very much the same way as Ferrari specifies, which -if I remember the 'Ferrari way'- is in essence to run zero valve tappet clearance between the base circle and then achieve a certain lift at valve opening and valve closing per the prescribed amount on the degree wheel. For these cams the spec is:

intake: w/0 clearance: .35mm valve lift @ BTDC and 70 ABDC followed by a second measurement to follow up on the first also at 0 clearance: 1.25mm valve lift @ 18 BTDC and 54 ABDC


exhaust: w/0 clearance: .35mm valve lift @ 66 BBDC and 30 ATDC. second measurement with 1.25mm lift is 50 BBDC and 14 ATDC

overlap lift at TDC with 0 clearance is 3.28mm intake and 2.75 exhaust.

These figures give 108 degree lobe centers. I am thinking of going a bit tighter and close the intake valve a bit sooner for a 104 degree lobe center on the intake. This would close the intake valve a bit sooner which I have found these Ferrari motors to really love. I just need to make sure I have adequate intake valve to piston clearance to make I can pop the intake open a few degrees sooner. Should be ok as I had decent size pockets made..
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No, higher lift doesn't mean more duration all the time. It just means if they are going for a certain lift in a certain duration timeframe that the camshaft ramp will have to be very aggressive to make it happen depending on what it is of course. I think what you are mentioning is the Ferrari timing method which is done at .020 lash between the base circle and tappet. I get their method mixed up at times.....

 

The factory manual states max spring compression/spring bind is: 1.004", but what it fails to mention are the figures for the retainer inner steps and spring base locator step. The retainer uses a .095 inner step while the base uses a .050 stop for a total of .145additional load placed on the inner valve springs. The inner valve spring binds at .870, but take into account .145 and the reality of the bind is @ 1.015". Cam lift should not exceed .060 before bind so max lift with stock springs is 1.075" or .445" at the cam if installed at spec 1.520". What should be understood with the stock springs is that they employ a very high spring rate, which when lifting over .400 is completely unnecessary and I believe will cause damage. At .400 lift and over, the spring is dancing at around 250lbs at the nose which is bad news for a flat tappet arrangement like this. From what I have learned thus far, with the weight of our stock components, anything over 200lbs on the nose is very much unnecessary. As an example, we are not running much more valve sprung weight than Honda B18 guys and they are boosting motors with 20psi+ and not exceeding 190lbs on the nose with 70-80lbs on the seat. Any more pressure than what is required is a waste of energy IMO.

 

Sean, spoke with Mike today about distortion again. He recalls the distortion not being 100% in the direction of the skirt, but very near it. I tell ya, I can really tell a difference measuring skirt to wall clearance in that direction as well. Without the torque plate there is a difference! It's at 3.2671 right now and I know we bored it with the torque plates on at 3.2677-3.2678.

 

bowls blended into the new outer diameter of the new valve seats. Almost done.
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I have an email this morning advising my cams are indeed the incorrect cams. Appartently they were making two sets, one with a custom lobe and one with the standard 'hot street' lobe. Thankfully they are allowing me to simply send it back to the US distributor and they will ship them rather than me forwarding them way back to Belgium......

One other thing I noticed was the thrust journal was a shorter distance than the standard 40mm. Did Ferrari ever use a different size thrust facing?

 

Completed 1-4 head today. Everything went smoothly, but something that is definitely near the top of my list of least favorite things to do is install valve stem seals. They just suck even with the right tool on these for some reason. I used high quality Elring viton BMW seals but they are an incredibly tight fit and you have to be careful or the thing will not go on straight.


The brand new valves from SI (exhaust) were of good quality except for the fact that every last one of them was slightly out of round. One was a few thou out which is just unacceptable. This happens when valve manufacturers get in a hurry and immediately face the valve rather than allowing it to cool correctly and then facing it. On the intake side of things, they were all perfect except for 1 which was just a hair out of whack. Manley made the intakes.

Anyway, I did a light valve lap with fine compound. All the ports were vacuum tested and are sealed 100%. New springs etc. Looks decent.

The correct cams came in a big hurry which I am very pleased about. I set them into the journals and set them. A light to medium whack with a peen hammer and a punch to the right of all the journals (punch in the same direction on all) a half inch or so 'sets' the cam and it turns with my pinky finger now. Perfect
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Yes.


crank, pistons, and the gearbox are done (I replaced the 1,2,3 synchros in the gearbox). I had the crank polished and the short block spins very easy with the low tension piston rings. Note: I used gapless top rings (pic inserted below).

The 2,3 gear synchros were toast! 1st wasn't that bad yet I replaced it anyway. Thing is, the 'box didn't shift poorly at all.


I'm waiting for the crank spacer ring to show up which Paul kindly enough have fabbed up. These are necessary to make up the timing gear difference on the 360 crank compared to the 308 crank. Once that's done I will drop the block onto the gearbox, install heads, time cams, install bell housing. Done.
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No I actually never even checked the synchros when I pulled it last time as the 'box shifted so well. It still did shift well but I figured 'while I am in here' I might as well do it as I know I am not going to want to tear into things again like this for some time.

 

Paul completed the crank rings. When using a 348/355/360, these must be used to make up the difference with the timing gear. Came out nice, I just had to grind the inside radius a bit to make it fit flush against the last main journal there.
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A post about sealers.

The above stuff is an Elring product (they guys who make our headgaskets) called Curil T and it never 100% dries but does tack up really well and I like using it on smaller gaskets, some of the O rings, and smaller metal to metal contact areas such as the side of the gearbox which covers the ring nuts and houses the speedo sensor. Best part about it is it's green.


The below stuff is turning into my all time favorite and the Porsche 911 and Porsche community in general is just nuts over the stuff. They use threebond to seal their engine case halves. Some know this stuff has Yamabond, but Threebond is the parent company who makes all this stuff. Contrary to internet rumors, this stuff is NOT, I repeat, NOT the same as Permatex Ultra Grey. This stuff is not at all a silicone but rather it's liquid and somewhat viscous. It also has almost an acetone or tolulene type smell. It sets up somewhat quickly and will absolutely not leak. Oil pans, trans pans, valve covers, joining the block to the gearbox are where this stuff really shows its worth and I'm pretty sure Brian Crall (Rifledriver) still uses it, and he's just the man.


A word on loctite 518 as I know it's popular when joining the engine to the trans. It's great stuff when the tolerances of the parts your are joining are perfect. Well with Ferrari they just aren't at times which is why I and Porsche guys prefer Threebond. It's just tougher when things are old and Italian lol.
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Well, at the engine to gearbox mating there is tons of pressure. It's also dificulty to say that is remains partially liquid because it dries into more of a solid ruberized material which oil or just about any kind of solvent cannot wash away (I got some on my hands last night which I absolutely could not remove with just about every cleaner and solvent there is!). Many use it on valve cover gaskets too.

 

Oh I see. I must have read the post too quickly. I would not hesitate to use it on intake manifold gaskets or t-stat housings but in the past I have installed those dry.