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355 turn Piggy

Discussion in '348/355' started by heung, Oct 24, 2011.

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  1. heung

    heung Rookie

    Aug 16, 2009
    14
    Malaysia
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    William Heung
    #1 heung, Oct 24, 2011
    Have not run my 1996 355 Spider for about 2 weeks now. Took it for a drive and it runs beautifully till.... I come to a stop at the light an hour later. The Car squeal like a pig and a light hold down on the clutch it goes away. Futher down the road the squeal got louder and each time I used the clutch to change gear it got louder. Keep it at 3 rd gear with light squeal all the way home. Make it home but now it gone real loud now each time I start. What happened??
     
  2. m5guy

    m5guy Formula 3

    Aug 17, 2008
    1,627
    Ventura, CA.
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    Greg
    #2 m5guy, Oct 24, 2011
    My guess is that your clutch throwout bearing is about to fail. This is not a complicated or expensive repair, so if my diagnosis is correct, you can get this fixed without much pain. Good luck!
     
  3. ghardt

    ghardt Formula 3

    Apr 18, 2004
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    Jerry
    #3 ghardt, Oct 24, 2011
    +1 Correct
     
  4. heung

    heung Rookie

    Aug 16, 2009
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    Malaysia
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    William Heung
    #4 heung, Oct 24, 2011
    Thanks Greg and Jerry for their advice. Any idea who can I order this part from Ricambi? or TR land? or any bodyelse? How would I discribe the part and what is the estimated cost?
     
  5. m5guy

    m5guy Formula 3

    Aug 17, 2008
    1,627
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    Greg
    #5 m5guy, Oct 24, 2011
    Definitely talk to Daniel at Ricambi. He will probably recommend the Hill Engineering clutch release bearing (same thing as a throwout bearing.)

    Part numbers are:

    F1 TRANSMISSION = CRB355F1-MS
    6 SPEED = CRB355MS

    Some 6-speed cars may also need an adapter flange part number CRBF348/355M. Daniel can tell you how to identify whether your car also requires the flange.
     
  6. Ricambi America

    Ricambi America F1 World Champ
    Sponsor Owner

    Dec 7, 2003
    16,423
    Winston Salem, NC
    #6 Ricambi America, Oct 24, 2011
    1996 cars almost always need a new flange to work with the Hill Bearing, unless the car was previously updated at a factory service centre. The only way to know 100% would be to pull the clutch pumpkin and inspect.

    CRB355MS: http://www.ricambiamerica.com/product_info.php?products_id=261280
    CRBF348/355: http://www.ricambiamerica.com/product_info.php?products_id=262597

    Both items are in stock, and available immediately.
     
  7. notoboy

    notoboy F1 Rookie

    Jul 8, 2003
    2,531
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    David
    #7 notoboy, Oct 24, 2011
    My last clutch bearing failed and it made all kinds of noises until I changed it. I ended up using the Hill Engineering bearing from Ricambi and have put about 4000 miles on it without trouble...

    As an aside, I had a squealing issue with a loose belt on my TR one time.

    Dunno if either of these help any, but thought I would chime in just in case, because both are easily fixable...
     
  8. Sandy Eggo

    Sandy Eggo F1 Rookie
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    Jun 4, 2009
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    #8 Sandy Eggo, Oct 24, 2011
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2011
    My '95 needed the flange. Daniel to the rescue.

    When in doubt, always go with the up-rated part is my advice. Especially if you let girls drive the thing. Speaking of which, wait until you see Michelle driving my F355...you won't know whether to laugh or cry. I just had to laugh... :D
     
  9. f355spider

    f355spider F1 World Champ
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    May 29, 2001
    18,038
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    #9 f355spider, Oct 24, 2011
    +4, been there, done that...Hill Engineering part is the way to go...talk to Daniel at Ricambi America, he's the man! ;)
     
  10. PaulK

    PaulK F1 Rookie
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    Apr 24, 2004
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    #10 PaulK, Oct 24, 2011
    Once it starts to squeal, about how much longer do you have until it fails? Would you say it's a STOP THE CAR IMMEDEATLEY kind of thing, or could you limp it home with not much risk?
     
  11. PAP 348

    PAP 348 Ten Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Dec 10, 2005
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    #11 PAP 348, Oct 24, 2011
    Are you a betting man? :D:D

    You can't guess as to how long parts last before failure.

    This TO bearing may last many months and many miles................or it may fail the next time he presses the clutch pedal in.
     
  12. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
    Consultant Owner

    Aug 10, 2002
    28,784
    socal
    #12 fatbillybob, Oct 24, 2011
    One prob with failing sticking T/O bearing is it can ride the pressure plate fingers and score or burn off some fingers and then you need a new one of those too.
     
  13. heung

    heung Rookie

    Aug 16, 2009
    14
    Malaysia
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    William Heung
    #13 heung, Oct 24, 2011
    Once it starts to squeal, I drove 5 km to a shop to see what the problem it was. Definately not the belt. Turn out a light hold on the clutch pedal it goes away. Knew it's something to do with the clutch. Decided to drive it home. Less than 10-15 times on clutch depressed for gear change and the squeals will be come unbareable during free gear idle and each time I depress the clutch. moving at 3rd gear there is a slightv squeal. Got home and did not take a chance to drive into the house. Stopped outside and push it in later. It's heart dropping to hear the squeal each time it start up.

    Next step. How difficult to get to the Bearing? Rear Bumper off? Clutch Housing Cover off? What next? Will be travelling, so will only work on it a week later.
     
  14. f355spider

    f355spider F1 World Champ
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    May 29, 2001
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    #14 f355spider, Oct 25, 2011
    It all depends...mine, then noise came and went...I kept driving it for several hundred miles. On one drive it came back, and whoop...that was it....clutch pedal went to the floor, and all the hyrdraulic fluid leaked out.

    I would say you are on borrowed time. If you must drive it, do so...but that is about it.
    If the sound is pretty much constant...just drive it to the shop. ;)
     
  15. PAP 348

    PAP 348 Ten Time F1 World Champ
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    Dec 10, 2005
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    Mount Isa, Australia
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    #15 PAP 348, Oct 25, 2011
    Removing the rear bar is optional.

    But you have to remove-

    Exhaust
    Starter motor
    Clutch pumpkin

    To access the clutch and TO bearing.

    It's an easy job and if you do a search, there are plenty of threads here showing pics and a "how to". :)
     
  16. bobzdar

    bobzdar F1 Veteran

    Sep 22, 2008
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    #16 bobzdar, Dec 2, 2011
    How do I tell if I have an updated flange? My bearing looks like the (newer) 168594 bearing but I'm not sure what the difference is compared to the old style or how to tell the difference. Is the flange a different diameter?
     
  17. Ricambi America

    Ricambi America F1 World Champ
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    Dec 7, 2003
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    #17 Ricambi America, Dec 2, 2011
  18. bobzdar

    bobzdar F1 Veteran

    Sep 22, 2008
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    Pete
    #18 bobzdar, Dec 2, 2011
    Is the only difference the spring hole centers? If so, would it just cause the return springs to be slightly off from parallel or is there an issue with the slave on the flange? I'll measure it when I get home and see what I've got.
     

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