Thanks Terry,I coat the mating faces with a weld through paint/spray product.It will be visually evident in later posts,especially the complete rocker rebuild.
The lower left hand side of the mouth panel had been damaged at some point in its life. accident.It was a light accident,this known from the results of the chassis frame check. I was able to take profiles from the undamaged side and replicate a new panel.The interesting thing about making this panel from a shape point of view is that the lower section is dead straight (welds to the tubular frame) and the upper section follows the contour of the mouth.For a relatively small panel,there is a lot of shape to be put into a tiny area. I used the English wheel to make this piece along with tooling i made to fabricate the openings as shown. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
New floor to 'A' post structure panel for both left and right hand sides as the originals are decayed and weakened along with the floors halves.The floor halves were removed along with the floor upper rear panel,again in a weakened state. The old structure panel was removed,so then allowing me to remove the floors.The new was fitted ready for welding in. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
You sir are a genious. Wonderful work. I can see though it is very time consuming. I need to get back to work on my car (house is taking all my time at the moment) !. Pete
The following pictures show new floors and rear floor panel as originals were decayed and weak.Everything clico'd in place ready for welding. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Pardon my ignorance, but how does the "Clico" work? I've seen them before, in works in progress, but never asked. I'm guessing the this little devise had its genesis in the aircraft industry. Thanks!
The head is made of two halves and special pliers are used to pull and release a plunger that slides in and out between those halves. When the plunger is pulled out, the halves go together and the head fits through a drilled hole. When released, the head expands binding the sheetmetal together. You can google Cleco - correct spelling generates more hits.
The aluminum finned oil sump had seen some abuse over the years,resulting in broken and gouged fins.The photos show the repair process,difficult welding the casting.Final photos show the repair process complete. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
This thread is absolutely amazing. I love seeing the process, thanks very much for sharing. Ed Niles, thanks for asking about the cleco things, I too have seen them before and never asked but was curious.
Fantastic work. I was proud to have welded in a new floorboard on my first car, a Fiat X1/9, and that was a flat piece of metal.... It will be a shame to cover up your artwork with paint/carpet/undercoating. Thanks for taking the time to post up the great photos and descriptions!
Our car was missing the inner fender spats.These panels are typically lost when mechanical work was undertaken back in the day.So i patterned up off another car and recreated a new set for this car. my weekly metal work blog www.themetalsurgeon.com Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Obviously, your skill sets are amazing. How do you handle jobs where other cars aren't available for templates? Curious, but asking for a reason.
A car body is symmetrical,so i rely on there is a 'good side' to pattern off.If both sides are screwed up,then i rely on contacts with cars,but that's difficult as you can imagine. If neither is available then its an artists impression,in my opinion just like all restorations of this caliber.
good stuff metal master! It is rare to see first rate tin knocking any more... the bag and mallet is certainly a craft dying off, too many have fallen in love with the planishing hammer(not a criticism, just a factual observation), and English wheel-both tools almost NEVER used much when these were originally made new...(that, should be OBVIOUS -} ). I remember stripping the wrinkle paint of an alloy dash in 1977/78 (1699GT) in order to reweld base metal(boatloads of cracks), and to fill the speaker hole from the 8-track player(filled that chasm too!)...what I remember most were the actual pieces of wood still embedded in the mallet marks/depressions made by the formation on the wooden "stump bucks" The real truth is that when originally made, these cars were not ANY WHERES NEAR as well as constructed/fabricated as the majority of true tin knocker restorations of today. All one needs to do is look carefully at the insitu pics of panels prior to assembly welding with the clecos... What IS scary-ier to the factually naive readers is that the racing cars are built even funkier! But then, as a race car, it did not matter! FWIW...