1987 MONDI 3.2 CAB So I replaced belts and bearing and all that good stuff. I aligned everything roughly and did the Ferrari method of setting the tension bearings (2 rotations and to the furthest travel in bearing. Belts "strum" like a guitar like Birdman discussed. Tension is good. So I do a few rotations by hand with no spark plugs for easy spinning. I then check the timing marks on flywheel PM I 14 with "I" being the mark for TDC 1-4 to bring it top dead center. It took forever to get the crank exactly TDC. This was not because the marks were hard to see but because I would miss it by a hair and then would have to do 2 full rotations and check again. My picture of mark on PM I 1 4 would not focus but it was dead-on the "I" (and from what I read that is the correct spot on 3.2s US) so take my word on that one..... The cam marks are good but not perfect. The front bank (in pic 1,2) looks dead on. The back bank is ever so slightly off. This is after many rotations by hand with tensioners set. I feel pretty good about it being SO close but want opinions. Ofcourse I would LOVE it spot on but I dont think it will affect anything. I know degreeing the cams could be an option but I read that each tooth is 12.5 degrees and each (not sure what to call it) hole in the cam gear is 25 degrees. Im afraid that if I start fooling with cam gear position Ill not get it nearly that close. OPINIONS BEFORE I BATTEN IT UP? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Leave it alone. If the car ran well before there is no need to bother with degreeing the cams, especially if you are not 100% confident in what you are doing. I did degree mine, found two of the cams were slightly off, adjusted them, and when I finally finished and got it running again felt...... absolutely nothing. Still a fun exercise, but unless they are way off it's not something you will notice seat of the pants.
1, 2 and 4 look pretty good (assuming that the factory marks are correct). But 3 looks off enough to think about resetting it. Remember, the width of the timing mark itself is about 3*+/-, IIRC, so what you've got there could be off by 6* or more. The timing gear pins have multiple combinations, so you can adjust the cam by as little as 1 or 2* with the cam pins, again IIRC. So if you wanted, you could get that cam much closer to the factory marks with a little trial and error. The problem with that, of course, is that if the cam slips while adjusting, or if the other cam on that bank moves, you will be doing a full cam timing job on that bank. If the car was running well before you opened it up, and everything is exactly where it was when you opened it up, apply a corollary of Murphy's Law -- if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Hopefully, you checked the location of the marks before you started, relative to TDC, so you can confirm that everything went back as they were supposed to. When you start it up, you'll have a good idea if it's correct or not.
From what I recall the marks were dead on but I wasnt focused on it as much as I was taking it apart. When putting it back together I am being extra carefully as taking it apart hindsight isn't 20/20 yet. I have to send my aftermerket starter out for a few days as solenoid is bad. I guess I'd feel better about getting them spot on as both gears on back are exactly the same amount off. As far as the marks being +-3 degrees, isn't that the rough cam cover marks and not the actual marks on the cam shaft. That little marks seems way too small to be 3 degrees.
Do you want it "close enough" or spot on as the factory intended? The engine could run OK, or great. In that it sure looks like you've put a lot of effort into this job, why not pass on mediocrity and dial her in. Here's the right way. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Those are assembly marks ..... NOT timing marks. Search and find RifleDriver's thread with pics on how far off those marks can be.
?. I know they are assembly marks, but of the cam position relative to the crankshaft. What am I missing here. The more i learn, the less I know. These are original cams on original crank. I just want them back to where the were when the factory said, good enough. I'm all about degreeing cans but now I'm confused on how to reference cams if those marks aren't "timing" marks but "assembly" marks. Then why are they there and how do I reference cam postition. I know there are variances in other things, such as head gasket thickness, etc. But help me out as I'm confused by that statement.
FastRadio shows the way. Degree the cams properly or accept the factory's half-assed effort. Fatbillybob gives one of the best tutorials on the subject. I am degreeing my cams shortly after I replace the screwed up shims and replace the cam gears with single piece aluminum gears. And BTW, ALL 4 of my cam assembly marks line up PERFECTLY even with the flywheel mark. It is 100% perfect ..... on the OUTSIDE. I KNOW; however, with 99% degree of accuracy, it is wrong on the INSIDE.
In order to phase the cams, you have to be reasonably comfortable that the pistons won't hit the valves while turning the crank. The assembly marks are the first pass of the process; a starting point. Once you have the cams set to the assembly marks, you can proceed with dialing in each of the cams with a degree wheel and get all four right on the money. Don't pay attention to the marks after that...
Correct. I have to admit I have read alot about doing this but never have done it. Can't wait to give it a go !!!!!!! Can't wait to become "EXPERIENCE Educated" instead of just "book smart."
Seriously, Welcome to the joys of Italian car ownership. I stand right with you with a "deer in the headlights look" much of the time too.
I like the factories "half-assed" over my ability. That being said I won't be able to sleep till i know its right.
just went through this myself. it took me nearly two weeks until i was satified with things. there will come a point where you realize it just can't be any closer. the car was built by humans; accept it.
If you're going to loose sleep about this, then just bite the bullet and let the timing exercise begin. I bet I spent at least 16 hours the first time I did a cam timing. Performed every step at least 3 times. Take a deep breath and have fun.
Given that the timing pins on the pulley are capable of smaller than 1 degree of adjustment; Do you really think you can read the timing mark to that kind of accuracy? My guess is that you could be off by 3+ degrees and you would never know.
Everyone has an opinion on this, but many are based on what people have read (probably elsewhere on this board). I would ask that everyone who is saying that he should degree the cams and has done this job himself on his own car please raise their hand.
Yup... Many hundreds of times...(Here's another recent QV engine job having her cams dialed in) Image Unavailable, Please Login
Great thread. So does degree the cams mean you pick up like maybe 20hp? Isn't that like going from having a REALLY, REALLY slow 30-year old car to a REALLY slow car? And, forgive my ignorance, but this work seems concentrated on one piston and its cam lobes. If there is slop in the system, so to speak, might there be irregularities in the cam lobes for the other three pistons? That is, might you have everything totally perfect for the #1 or #5 piston but half-assed (to quote Rifledriver ) for the other three cylinders?
Of the many you have done, how many did you find to be significantly in error relative to the factory marks? And of that subset, were any off enough that correcting the timing could actually be felt? I only know what I have read (i.e. that QV motors are not overly sensitive to cam timing), and my own experience with my car which seems to support that. However, that is only one data point so I am genuinely curious to know what others have actually experienced. I can certainly understand wanting to have everything "just right", which is why I elected to degree my cams (with the excellent help of this board and its contributors). Nothing wrong with that. That said, I hate to see someone pushed into performing a somewhat technically involved procedure that may not have any tangible benefit but carries a significant amount of risk if not done correctly.