30k 355F1 major engine out

Nice work there! yes the F1 system is fine, I did my engine out in the garage a few yrs ago, no F1 issues.

It's common for the cam belt covers to crack (are you missing one? I'd replace that). Luckily mine weren't cracked, but I wouldn't worry about it.

 

Since you have chosen the red pill I'm sensing a frustration in the matrix. Good work, keep going.

 

Make sure you figure out the part number you need and google the part number and the word Ferrari. You'll be amazed at the price differences online depending on who you order from.

Some parts have a current part number and 1 or 2 previous part number(s). Make sure you google all of them and check eBay also.

As an example, a fuel pressure regulator costs 1068$ from Ferrari and Rockauto sells the same part for 179$.

Make sure you also check the interchangeable thread.

Good luck and please post lots of pictures, this is better entertainment than anything on TV...

 

Thanks guys, that is reassuring. I just had my F1 system bled and I self-calibrated the clutch at home so I would hate to have the car move from one shop to another based on who would have the required computer tools.

Amazed? I think the word you are looking for is APPALLED. I find it really disgusting in this day and age for them to keep at it, as well as the ADs marking up some more.

It really does take away from the Fcar ownership treat, for me personally at least.

 

You are doing a great job....just stick with it and take your time. Any reputable hydraulic hose shop can reproduce that line. I have had dozens produced over the years for high performance Turbo applications on my 911's, by Orme Bros. in North Hollywood California, without incident. Just shop around, and I'm sure you will find one in your local area.

 

How high do you have to get the backend of the car for the motor to slide out ? it does not look very high (ok, I am sure much higher than was fun to do) and I have been looking at a MaxJack 2 post lift but it only lifts 48" max ( http://maxjaxusa.com/specifications.html ) Would a MaxJack be high enough to remove the motor ?

I doubt my wife would let me buy another full size lift as I already have a 4-post and I assume you can't do a engine out with the 4-post. The MaxJack seems to be the one for me, I could put it under the carport which is not as good as the garage but probably more convenient for using it often on oil changes on the daily's, right it always means moving cars around and the one on top of the lift does not run, so I end up changing oil on the ground. I do have a mid-rise lift also but I doubt it would work for the engine out, there is too much junk underneath, or has someone done it with a mid-rise ( http://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/specialty-lifts/MD-6XP.aspx )

Yeah, I don't have a 355 yet either but I could have the lift this week as the concrete pad is going to be poured Tuesday for the carport and I planned on a 2-post in that area. Before the wife said no to a ugly permanent lift.

 

Well done, nice work, should be very rewarding once it's all back together again. Interesting to see so many people here seem to scare away from work like this. Doing a major on this model without a lift is indeed brave though.

As for the play in the cambelt, make sure to really check both lower cogs in the timing system for any play, the bearings behind them are known weak spots and if one fails it will cause you serious headaches. Good luck.

 

Erick, good on you man!
...it "is" just a car, like any other, meant to be serviced, sometimes with specific tools (my old 944 was bad for that), and can be worked on like any other
:thumbsup:

 

MaxJax is high enough to remove motor. I used it when performing a major on my car last year.
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I gotta get a MaxJax.

 

Nicely done! Keep at it and take your time. I appreciate that you are sharing/documenting everything. I can't wait to see it finished. Outstanding!

 

I'm not yet a Ferrari owner, but when my Viper needed the transmission pulled, we went ahead and bought a two post Eagle lift and it has been great. It is heavy gauge steel and seems to be really well made. The only issue I had with it was that one of the orings on the hydraulic fittings had been crushed and deformed so the connection leaked kind of bad until I put a new o-ring in there, but other than that, it is reliable, solid and a great help when working on vehicles. They were running a sale when I bought it and it was like $1450 plus like $200 for shipping to the freight terminal where I picked it up with a trailer. They loaded it onto the trailer with a forklift and we were able to partially unpack it on the trailer to reduce the weight and finish unloading it and installing it with a cherry picker and two guys. It uses 220 volts, but most lifts probably do. Install was pretty simple with the supplied instructions and after renting a large hammer drill to install the large anchor bolts into the concrete. If I had known how cheap they were, I would have got it a LONG time ago and I've already used it enough to have got my money's worth out of it. I always assumed a lift would be $5-6000 minimum, but this one has been more than adequate for anything I've thrown at it and I wholeheartedly recommend it to anyone with a shop in their home. Sorry for the drift, but I thought you guys trying to do your own engine outs might find it useful. I expect to be in your shoes one day

 

Putting a small amount of locktite on the obvious nuts and bolts wouldnt be a bad idea. Anything that holds parts together with a gasket would be the general rule. You don't want them loosening up and creating a seal leak.

 

Nope.

Only nuts that need Loctite are inside the gearbox.

 

Well done that man. I found getting the crank pulley bolt off a righ bugger, had to buy an impact gun for the job.

Other than that, take your time as its a lot easier to work on when it's out.

Make sure you do the obviou things like tensioner bearings as well as just belts. If the belt is loose, you may want to do the tensioners as well.

I'd do the alternater tensioner bearing as well. It's cheap but is a bugger to do in-situ.

Check the condition of engine and gearbox mounts.

also, give the engine cradle/frame a thorough going over and check for any signs of rust, especially at the base of the uprights.

 

To clean the butterflies I used a GM 'top end' cleaner, recommended to me by DHelms. Works great, smells horrible

 

And becoming hard to find.