Sticky parts - what coating when redoing?

Hi Jevs,

I am working on a very in-depth experimentation of everything I've read online and I plan on testing every cleaning product method as well as every refinishing product/paint including all the ones you mentionned.

I will take pictures and document everything so that other Fchatters can benefit from the experiment and we can find the absolute best solution once and for all.

I did some testing and my initial reaction is telling me to use the SEM adhesion promoter and then the sem paint on top of it. The plasti-dip stuff is cool because it will give a much closer resemblance to the original touch/feel of the parts as it did when the car was new, however, it just seems to peel off so easily to me that I am worried about its resistance over time.

Another challenge is the fact that the HVAC panel cannot be refinished and you must absolutely get a new cover which is available for 80$ at Ricambi (and well worth it)

That covering is also black and has a certain texture. My main objective will be to get as close to that cover as possible to give a seamless look to the interior.

If you can wait a week or so, I will be starting a thread on this with all my findings and results so you can benefit from it. Be patient, let me be the guinea pig......

 

I blasted all my parts with Rustoleum. No point in bothering with any of the Plasti-dip stuff unless you want to do all the refinishing again in a year or two. The Rustoleum texture paint matches the original finish used on the console and goes well with the HVAC overlay panel.

 

Ok, well, if you get a jump on it before me please post some pics and keep us informed on your progress.

Are you replacing the hvac panel? Has yours began bubbling up yet?

 

Obviously, he won't let us in on it because he is running a business. I've seen him trash the whole plasti-dip thing so I doubt he is using that.

I am pretty sure he cleans the parts really well and has found a good textured paint for the parts that looks good and is durable. I am pretty convinced it's one of the paints that I will be testing.

The big advantage of using Stickynomore is that you are guaranteed to have a good result, it will save you time and he knows how to dissasemble the switches which you should NEVER do yourself.

However, I intend to get to the bottom of it and finding the perfect recipe on how this gets done and I will post the outcome here shortly

 

I'm the guy who posted the thread about using the SEM products. It's been 8 months and no issues so far. I haven't used the SEM products on the interior door handles. I haven't gotten around to it, but I had planned on having these parts powder coating because of the higher durability.

 

The SEM stuff that I used wasn't their vinyl dye. All I know is that it's on there pretty well. I can't scuff it off with my finger nail, though I tried. I'm sure if I scraped it hard with a key, that it'd scratch up but I have no plans to scrape my keys across the plastic parts.

Like you said, single stage auto finish with flex agent could be the better way to go. I'm not sure. I don't have the equipment to DIY, so I chose the route available to me. It'd be interesting to resurrect this thread in a few years from now and see how everyone's refinishing is holding up - including those by the pros.

Good luck with whatever you choose. Let us all know how it goes and the various pros/cons.

 

My 355 had one sticky vent, I took it off, cleaned it with EasyOff cleaner, risned it, and dried it off. Then I noticed that the base material is black and looks exactly like the Rustoleum finish I did before on the 348. So, not being extremely stupid, I put it back without painting it more. And, no one has been able to tell the difference, including me. I forgot which side I did, and can't tell.

The base material on the 348 is not like that by the way and had to be painted with primer and Rustoleum semi gloss.

 

Plasti-dip would be a mistake to use - it would be a temporary solution, give it 6 months or so and it will peel off.

 

Take a look at the thread I posted about restoring the interior of my 355- The Rustoleum texture paint- applied correctly to the steering column surround is incredible looking.

I used the SEM flexible color stuff on my maserati interior parts and they look perfect. Basically take your time and do good prep and you'll get a good outcome.

When refinishing the knobs on the A/C panel REMEMBER the knobs release from C Clips on the back of the potentiometers- DO NOT try and pry them off. Also the little white indicator lines on the knobs can be gently pushed back out of the knobs- allowing you to refinish the plastic knob and then re-einsert the translucent white strip-

No need to powder coat the ashtray- Clean it well, sand it- prime it and use the texture paint- looks factory.

 

They are different- the SEM really needs the plastic primer or it goes on poorly- I shot the rustoleum with no primer- the secret is to "mist" on 3-5 coats the build up the fine texture- try it on a gabage can lid or some scrap- it's pretty amazing....

 

Have you folks tried the Rust-Oleum Adhesion Promoter. Really helps adheision if you apply a light coat. Remember less paint on plastic is always better. Prep prep prep is the key

 

Just curious why people are using texture paint?? nothing about a texture finish is factory, look at nice non sticky Ferrari Interior pieces and there isn't anything that has a texture finish. If you are looking for something different that's fine, but if you are looking for as close to a factory finish as possible either go with Sticky no More or Green Olive refinishing co.

 

This worked great for me.
www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=259362

 

That is great info, I bought all of that stuff from SEM but was unaware of the ABS testing. The black I bought was the one reccomended by Jay SEM 15243. However, it doesn't really matter since all the black will be painted so there is no matching that needs to be done.
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I used SEM trim black which is sold at paint shops.

They sell the stuff by the cases and the same paint the factories use (per the sales guy).

I even have a local F car dealer using it on some interior parts after they saw my finished work.