Project-Scuderia

fun to read on your Scud project...more to come i hope

the P&M C6RS is something!

http://www.vetteweb.com/features/vemp_0808_pratt_and_miller_corvette_c6rs/viewall.html

 

In mine (Scud), I had fuses and a useless screwdriver and pliers and a pair of gloves. Coming from Porsche, I expected at least a tow hook, maybe a lug bolt key for the titanium wheel bolts, and one or two guide pegs for the ceramic rotors.

Seems hardly worth it for 1 lb 9 oz, so it's out. I will locate the fuses somewhere else which will cost me an ounce or two.
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Anyone "detrim" the front boot? Curious as to how much that stuff weighs. With the seemingly useless tool kit out and compressor, I will probably at least remove the straps flapping around (pop-rivets).

 

Debating, but will likely remove. Weight is 5 pounds. I've heard the goo gunks up the TPMS as well. The goo kits may/may not seal the tire. Can always drop the inflator back in the trunk for a road trip. Will definitely remove if I wind up with a 2nd set of wheels. I've never needed the spare in my Porsche in 11 years. On a slow leak, just waited until I got home and did it right. If local, I can always fetch better tools.
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Are you going to keep the AC?

 

This is a lovely exercise, but frankly unless you are trying to make the minimum weight for a racing series, and get the last 1/10 out of a lap, its like rearranging deck chairs on the Titanic. I'm not seeing the point. Most of these cars see the occasional track day and mainly visit Starbucks.

I went through the weight loss thing with guys that I raced triathlons with. They were shedding grams here and grams there on their bikes, when a good dose of Exlax would have yielded better results.... and been cheaper.... and I would still be quicker. However, they had bragging rights on the Sunday ride.

On the car side, I instruct allot of guys in whatever cars they come in, and they are weighing wheels and taking this and that out to shave weight, when most should just get on a diet and exercise plan to drop weight. I was instructing in an M3, giving a ride to 3 guys to show them the line and I had no problems catching a Ford GT that was lightened w/750hp. Not bragging, just saying that in street cars it really is just academic.

My point is its not worth destroying the originality of your car in an effort to save weight that will mean absolutely nothing, except for bragging rights at coffee. But to each his own.

 

I didn't want to say this at first but hey it makes sense. That's the flak I cop from lady friends whose husbands are all in lightening their Supercars. It's funny but it makes sense somehow.

 

Sounds like one of my posts, but you hit the nail on the head. If you know a good diet, please pm me, mine isn't working.

 

Great thread!

 

there are many ways to enjoy this hobby of ours.....I appreciate someone trying to completely Scuderia-ize a Scuderia.

 

I agree. Shedding a few pounds here and there won't make that much of a difference come lap times, but I think its great that some owners do this type of stuff. It would be interesting to see the times of the Scud, pre and post weight loss. My guess is very close. Unless you are shedding 50-100lbs at a time, which is impossible in a car as light as the Scud is, its tough to feel the difference.

 

You can reduce the weight of a Scuderia by 100lbs, and you can do it without destroying the car.

 

Interesting thread. Keep up the good work RBM.

 

RBM - I'm enjoying your project and all the detailed photo's - I appreciate the precision, professionalism and the passion.

 

I currently have my car with no shims on the rear axle, camber is currently at -2.7, front is at -3.5. I use 3mm more shims on the rear of the front control arms, so caster always comes at 7+ degrees.

At the rear axle, we took out the studs on the LCA and inverted them, so the nuts get tighten from the outside, and there is no need to remove the diffuser to install rear shims.

2 months ago my car was running -4.2 front camber and -3.5 rear camber, but it was just too much.

Ride height on my car is drastically lower than stock. But my car is on its 6th version of the suspension. A stock Scuderia lowered would handle horribly, because it runs out of suspension and hits the bump stops.

The washers in the upper control arms are useless, and they add positive camber. I have them out from 3 years ago.

Each 1mm of shim is a 0.2 degrees change on camber. Adding front shims adds toe-in as well, adding rear shims keeps the toe in the ballpark prior to the addition.

Don't use the upper washers and you gain -0.2 camber, don't use the lower washers, and you gain another -0.2 degrees camber, lower the car and camber moves over -1.0 degrees extra (but a stock Scuderia must not be lowered, unless is driven on streets and not tracked).

This car likes exactly 1 degree more negative camber in the front axle compared to the rear axle. I posted the factory specs somewhere in the forum.

All cars, including the Scuderia come messed up from the factories in regards to alignment. The first thing I do when I get a new car, is to align it, I get measurements before and after.

I do my own alignments at a local GY store with a Hunter DSP600. It takes me 45 minutes to get the toe set. I set the camber at home with my camber gauge (LongAcre).

Your toe settings are going to make your car a handful. Set the rear at 0.50 degrees toe-in total, and the front to your preference between 0.10 and -0.10 total (I like a little front toe-out).

 

With F430GT's advice and assistance I adjusted my 360 geometry.

I managed to achieve -2.50 on my front axle with the use of multiple shims. From recollection I placed one in from below (as standard) then I put the next one in from the top, then another from below then another in from top. I think I am carrying a max of 11mm of shim on one side. It's true the nut doesn't fit fully on to the stud. An option would be to take out the stud and add a longer one but I just used lock-tight sealant on the threads and I check them regularly to ensure they haven't moved.

I now have -2.00 on rear (which was my target) but when I was working on my set-up I overestimated the amount of shims I needed on the rear and did achieve a measurement of -2.95.

I found that an additional 1mm shim up front made a diff of 0.22 degrees. On the rear, the same 1mm additional shim made a diff of 0.40 degrees.