I have just the tool to diplomatically deal with them...whatever their thinking was Marc Image Unavailable, Please Login
Marc, For once you've got it all wrong: Iy was the Naders who kept the Khamsin as exclusive as it is today. Heck, there are less Khamsins than Enzo's in this world, and let's not even start about something as pedestrian as an F40. Bal, I have the PDF of the owner's manual and the original with the car. Maseratisource offer a copy of the parts-book for USD 55. (120 pages) They do however warn that it is not accurate for all cars, as development went on and the book doesn't list everything. I wonder, then, how helpful it is in the end? Experience anyone?
Interesting take on it. Maybe so. Perhaps we should all send Mr. Nader a note of thanks! It's very good. I have a QP3 manual also for comparison because those parts are cheaper to come by in the USA. I just picked up some carb parts from a QP3 guy a few weeks ago. The only notable difference I've found so far in the Khamsin manual is in the electrics. My car has an alternator with integral regulator, but the manual shows separate pieces.
I have several reproduced manuals, booklets from MIE. I respect those guys and do send them some of my business-----but some (not all) of the reproductions I received were almost impossible to read. The photos/diagrams were illegible. Expensive too.
Thanks for that Jack: Below is the link to the full catalog description. I saw it at the 2009 Oldtimer GP at the Nurburgring (photos) and it is a good car, just two chassis numbers from my ex baby 1242. The only negative I saw is the red on the bumpers which is incorrect but that has been done on a couple of other cars and is no serious issue. It has been in the care of a top Khamsin tech expert who occasionally posts and I am sure he has taken good care of it. http://www.coys.co.uk/auction.php?itemID=1580&auctionID=21 best regards, Marc PS: Jack so we should actually thank Nader?! Hmmm you might want to try a career as a politician;-)! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hi Jack, The parts manual is good to help describe some of the systems (e.g. the LHM circuits). Not sure how useful it is as when ordering parts for the engine rebuild we just went on descriptions etc. MIE sometimes ask for reference numbers from it when you enquire about parts to make sure you get the right items. I think the Eurospares website may have a copy of it that you can reference to locate parts (though not sure what if anything you could order from them for a K) The owners manual was not updated with production changes, my car only has one horn (no city switch). It also only has one radiator thermo switch and not two as per original design and wiring diagram. I believe that it runs the V6 clutch release bearing and not the V8 one as we found out when the clutch was changed a few years back with the help of McGraths. I wonder was it a case of use what you have around the place when building the car. I purchased the MIE tech binder and also had issues with the quality of the photocopies. Though the guys will replace any pages that are poor if you ask them. This contains all the recorded tips and techniques MIE have compiled over the years. Cheers Bal
Hi Bal, Thank you for elaborating a little on the manual, and inconsistencies in production cars. Yes, with the very limited number of cars built towards the end, I suppose they just used 'what worked'. Has anyone ever made a time-line with yearly numbers produced? Strange to find the V-6 clutch patys; I thought most V-8's used the Jaguar set-up (even including the splines on the clutch-plate), but I am not sure of this. I am sure if you live close the McGraths you get excellent service. As for my own experience, they don't even answer the e-mails sent via their own web-site. I would have thought that with the level of prices they charge, some service may be expected. MIE so far were on the ball, the a/c parts ordered should be in today or tomorrow (customs delays, quite normal on this continent). I should have ordered the parts-book at the same time, but was in a one-track state of mind to get the lost a/c compressor replaced. The parts also went to the re-builder who lost the unit, thankfully they are taking responsibility. By next week we should have a re-built, complete compressor and will be monile. Then the real adventure begins
Hey Jack, Just to clarify it was only the V6 release bearing, the clutch plate and Pressurfe plate was the correct V8 version. Good luck on the aircon compressor, bet you can't wait. Bal
Was at the paint shop today. An unusual issue. The whole of the front edge of the bonnet is a double skin. There were a few bubbles on it so the painters decided to cut away some of the metal to patch in new metal. In between there was some corrosion such that there was some powdered rust! Just to prove it he cut away a patch they had ground down and there was some powdered rust there! SCARY!!!!!!! Although the car was repainted a few years ago by a ''specialist'' down south I decided to do the whole car again and just deal with any issues or problems that exist. Will try and post pics. Anyone come across the bonnet issue before? Suggestions? They have pumped the area with rust kill materials. Paul
Rust in the front edge of the bonnet is common on the Khamsin. I have seen several cars with rust in this area, my own #385 included. Since it rust from inside it's often not discovered before it's very bad, and big pieces of steel needs to be patched in. Spraying the inner structure with some penetrating rust killer will help, and may be good enough to stop the rust if it's not too bad. The easiest way of discover this kind of corrosion is the use your fingers to feel the thickness of the double layer of steel around the edge of the bonnet. If it's thicker some places, it's almost certain rust between the layers. The same goes for the bottom of the doors. Good luck! Best regards Marius
That begs the question: When did Maserati start with any serious/effective rust-proofing? (Their Maranello counterparts started in 1984) @ Bal: You're too right, can't wait. Didn't need the set-back with the a/c compressor getting lost, because it was basically the only fault the car had ( a little ticking noise from the compressor) which now set us back several months. Unfortunately those were the summer months, and although we enjoy a year-round driving season, these are bone-dry, which I prefer. Also, my car has never been anywhere near an ocean since it was shipped to South Africa new, so I'd like to keep it dry That said, I live 200 meters from the ocean, but in a wind-shaded area. My garages are bone-dry, even my ex-308 didn't show any corrosion-problems after 5 years, so I'm not worried about that. Funny, buy a house 500 meters down the road and it is quite different! @Paul: Yes, corrosion is your worst enemy. Anything mechanical can be fixed, but if you are going to re-paint the whole car, everything comes off, which presents the ideal opportunity to rust-proof it properly. Do it! Is Before & After still in operation? I believe they do a great job.
Hi, I thought I'd bring your attention to the Khamsin that just appeared on the Bring a Trailer website...Enjoy! http://bringatrailer.com/2012/03/08/the-right-one-1977-maserati-khamsin/ Julian
Hi Paul, we've had the same issue with #409, the only way to sort it permanently is to replace the entire leading edge (frame & all) with new metal. It's a lot of work & care needs to be taken not to distort the bonnet skin when welding the new sections, but I'm sure your body guys will be more than aware of that. It can be an issue on the nose panel as it is also very tightly double skinned (we had to replace that on #409 as well!) Hope this helps? Al.
The QP3 Manual is usefull but take great care with the measure spec with the engine. The Khamsin has different size main bearings and the valve seat angle is 120 v the QP3 has 90 degree seats. So if you see Bearings on Ebay saying siuts QP3 and Khamsin check with the supplier for Vanderwel part number. and sorry I dont have the numbers to hand. The info is very usefull nice pictures! unless you want info on the drysump scavenage pump. Graeme
Hello all: Lots of activity! -Julian thanks for the link, that is the car that Mark from Ontario, Canada "Abarth69" who posts here has just bought. Motorcar Gallery let cars linger on their website to see who else might want a similar one. I don't think they have another car(d) up their sleeve though I might be wrong. -Bonnet/hood rust and composition. Initial ones were lacking in rigidity, Giuseppe in Milan who has owned 250 since new and had another early car which burned to the ground in period-check your fuel hoses and clips- said that car at high speed had the bonnet/hood flapping like a bed sheet....so he said the factory reinforced them. Marius how do the hoods of 008 and 1000 compare: is 1000 more robustly made? Paul and Jack best of luck! Marc
Yes the car on Bring a trailer is mine and as of yesterday is now ready to be picked up and shipped to Canada If you look under the comments someone posted a link to this http://www.rmauctions.com/2009-1000-Millas-Sport-Argentina.cfm enjoy Mark
Marc, I don't think the reinforcement of the flimsy bonnet was the bonnet itself, but just the extra supports along the edges of bonnet. This is yet another change from "S1" to "S2", as the cars I have seen with the old style seats also have just two bonnet supports only. The bonnet on US1000 is much more rigid because of the six supports. On 008 the bonnet shakes a lot when driving. Best regards Marius
Thanks for the info and clarification Marius. Mark: that is 226 only K in Argentina. best regards, Marc
COYS 24th march http://www.coys.co.uk/auction.php?itemID=1580&auctionID=21 Estimate: 38,000 - 50,000 Registration Number: German historic registered Chassis Number: 1238 Graeme
Since it's so quiet here, I thought this a good place to vent my frustrations! Ivan, thanks much, the clutch arrived on Monday, as did the small stuff from MIE. Goodie, I thought, they've had enough time to prepare the York-core, so it can all be on its' way. Not so. No core. AAaarrrrgggghhhh! Another day lost to come up with a core, assemble the whole lot and test it. Yesterday afternoon the complete compressor was tested, and TNT called to come collect. So, we're waiting for the release of the waybill-nr. And we wait.... This morning a message: TNT hasn't picked up the parcel yet. A few more phonecalls later, and I have a waybill-number, as well as a new message attached to it: TNT picked up the parcel, noted it said compressor on the invoice, and inquired if there is oil in the compressor. Yes. Now stamped as hazardous cargo, with the need for special re-packaging by TNT, we're looking at it leaving from Johannesburg Friday or Saturday. I'm off to buy a good bottle of single malt and do my best to be quicker than TNT.
Jack, Feel for you man, single malt the best option I think. I found a small leak on the LHM tank on my car, need work out where it's leaking and arrange to have that sorted out, not good as no replacements available here in UK. Gotta be ready for K40. Bal
Thanks Bal, the malt worked well Before it got better, it got worse, but it appears that the parcel is now at the airport in transit. With a bit of luck I can finally take possession of my beauty in the very near future. I have no experience with the LHM system, but understand that it is not a hygrospocic fluid, so a pin-hile due to corrosion would probably be unlikely? No idea if this would work well with LHM, but for fluid-leak detection there are fluids that you mix into the sytem, and with a special light they will light up (something in the vein of blacklight) That way you can detect even the smallest of leaks.
Good news, the compressor has arrived, finally. 2 questions though: There's a new stud for the deive-cable from MIE: This has in sequence: thread, hex part, shank, hex part. The eye of the cable needs to go on the shank, but where does the stud come apart? The car is 3000kms away from me, and I don't want to have the new stud broken... 2nd: How tight does the centre bolt for the pulley need to be? How much play should there be un the pulley? With these 2 questions answered we'll be back in business
