Replacing the rear rotors on a 360... | FerrariChat
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Replacing the rear rotors on a 360...

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by vrsurgeon, Apr 25, 2011.

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  1. vrsurgeon

    vrsurgeon F1 World Champ
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    #1 vrsurgeon, Apr 25, 2011
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    Hello everyone I wanted to document the replacement of the rear rotors for those who are so inclined because the repair manual basically says "just replace it.."

    I first started by removing the rear wheel..
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  2. vrsurgeon

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    #2 vrsurgeon, Apr 25, 2011
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  3. vrsurgeon

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    #3 vrsurgeon, Apr 25, 2011
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    I then removed both caliper pins and the spring, cleaned them with formula 409. It's beautiful! they used stainless steel for the parts! Perfection!
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  4. vrsurgeon

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    #4 vrsurgeon, Apr 25, 2011
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  5. vrsurgeon

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    #5 vrsurgeon, Apr 25, 2011
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    at this point you can remove the caliper or focus on the true challenge at hand, the emergency brake.

    I chose the remove the emergency brake first.

    The ebrake is held on to the spindle by a 8mm hex bolt and a 6mm hex bolt.

    The 8mm bolt is on the bottom and I cut about 1cm off a 8mm hex wrench to get it off. The bolt is close to the suspension and the shorter end makes it easier to get the bolt off..

    I used a wrench for extra leverage to loosen the bolt.. there was no anti-seize on it so it was tight to get off..
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  6. vrsurgeon

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    #6 vrsurgeon, Apr 25, 2011
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  7. vrsurgeon

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    #7 vrsurgeon, Apr 25, 2011
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  8. vrsurgeon

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    #8 vrsurgeon, Apr 25, 2011
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    With the pads and pins removed.. the cylinder needs to be reset and "compressed" back into the cylinder.

    I'm sure a special tool can be used to twist it back in.. I used two hex wrenches to twist the cylinder clockwise. This twists the cylinder back into the e-brake.
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  9. vrsurgeon

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    #9 vrsurgeon, Apr 25, 2011
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  10. vrsurgeon

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    #10 vrsurgeon, Apr 25, 2011
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    I then bolted the main caliper back on, reassembed the e-brake caliper with the pads spaced as far apart as possible, and then bolted it back together...

    the hardest part was figuring out the twisting of the e-brake caliper..
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  11. vrsurgeon

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    #11 vrsurgeon, Apr 25, 2011
    New pads are slid in the main caliper, the lower pin is tapped in.. the spring applied and then the upper pin tapped in. Just make sure the pin is tapped flush with the caliper on the backside of the caliper.

    Bleed the caliper with the new pads and you're good to go.

    Two final things:
    1) if the pedal is squishy, bleed the two bleed nipples on the main cylinder (remove carpeted panel in front trunk beneath the front window)
    2) "Cheapie" pads may be too thick to fit in the caliper with a new rotor.. I had to sand them down a millimeter or so and remove anti-squeal pads to get a perfect fit..

    Hardest part was the e-brake caliper removal and resetting... (a barrel of monkeys.. )
     
  12. netman

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    #12 netman, Apr 25, 2011
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2011
    Great write up. You might want to add a blurb that notes how to adjust the ebrake. This is done by manually working the handbrake leveler inside the vehicle until pressure is applied to the rotor via the ebrake caliper. It is basically a non hydralic ratching mechanism that spins the piston out towards the rotor.
     
  13. FerrariDublin

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    #13 FerrariDublin, Apr 26, 2011
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    Good post.

    It's much easier to release the parking brake caliper if you let go the suspension strut shown here first. Release the three mounting bolts and pull the assembly out of the mounting position. Once it's released the entire rear hub can turn out (just like the front wheels) and allow easy access to the lower mounting bolt on the caliper.

    As a matter of interest what discs did you use and where sourced and for what kind of cost?
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  14. vrsurgeon

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    #14 vrsurgeon, Apr 26, 2011
    Thanks Guys!
    Netman.. that pic post will be coming in time! :)
    Greg.. I debated removing the bolts but figured I could do it "surgically" hehehe. That definitely sounds like it will make the job easier. The only thing that I didn't mention was that I had to on the drivers side of the car, remove the pad from the e-brake with the pin BEFORE I remvoed the caliper as there was a little ridge on the rotor that prevented the e-brake from sliding off the rotor. Yes, it was time to change them. :)

    The rotors were the original rotors put on in 1999. I'd like to place a shoutout (HEY!) to the PO's who deferred proper maintainence this long.. ;-)

    The rotors that I used were the updated Brembo part#182606 , price was $199 USD, I bought them from: http://www.awautoparts.us. The brake pads that I used were Centric Pads from: rockauto.com. (yes a 20 dollar semimetallic pad works well, I just don't plan on tracking my car.. )

    Thanks everyone and hope this helps others planning on the task..
     
  15. FerrariDublin

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    #15 FerrariDublin, Mar 9, 2012
    Hi Curt,

    I was referring back to this thread and realised I never thanked you for your pointer above.

    I managed to pick up a set of those discs from a UK supplier and they worked out a treat.

    So.............. Thanks! :D
     
  16. Spider360Matt

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    #16 Spider360Matt, Mar 15, 2012
    This is a great post - thanks. Checking the price on the rotors...they are now 275/each and on Ricambi, they are 333.00. Man that is some inflation in just a short time!
     
  17. THINKFAST

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    #17 THINKFAST, Mar 18, 2012
    Thanks Curt! I will use your info when my brakes come due. Mine were done last fall by Ferrari dealer,this could have saved me alot of $$$ Keep up the great posts!!
     
  18. vrsurgeon

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    #18 vrsurgeon, Mar 18, 2012
    Guys a pleasure! Lessons learned since then..

    1) paint the centers of the rotors to look pretty before you install just did this last week with new pad install because..
    2) Centric pads suck! I recently replaced then with gyrodisk all around. Centric is cheap $&@! And too dusty.
     
  19. FerrariDublin

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    #19 FerrariDublin, Mar 18, 2012
    Yeah, thought this might come back and haunt you!

    I too installed without painting - mistake. Had to remove and do it at twice/three times the effort - well worth doing as the rust creeps in within weeks and just looks bad. I used a high-temp black paint and it's stood up extremely well.
     
  20. CarloZ

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    #20 CarloZ, Mar 22, 2012
    Congrats to the OP for bringing us this great DIY project. I would just add that I used the following tools to remove the pins and to push the pistons back into the calipers. Both of these tools are available thru online(i.e. amazon)

    To pop the pins out or back in you can use:

    **Stanley Part# 58-230 3 Piece Assorted Square Head Nail Set

    To push the caliper pistons back in, you can use:

    **Bessey Part# DHCC-4 4_Inch Double Headed C-Clamp
     

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