Where to start with these CEL codes?

Looking for some advice to see where I should start with fixing these codes. I did reset everything and these are what came back after about 45-50 miles. The CEL did not seem to come on until I was "Cleaning it out" on the service road after 45 miles or so of around town driving with no CEL.

I need to get an emissions inspection and I am sure these are not going to let me me pass.

P0432 Main Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
P1447 Unknown Trouble Code Description
P1691 Unknown Trouble Code Description
P0422 Main Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshhold (Bank 1)
P0134 O2 Sensor Curcuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P1119 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit (Upstream Catalyst) (Bankk 2, Sensor 1) - Short To Ground (Min)
P1448 Unknown Trouble Code Description

There are a couple codes that did not return, but these did. I am unsure of the condition of my catalytic converters. I should also note that someone pulled the CEL lamp prior to me buying the car. I have stock headers, stock cats, and Tubi Muffler. The last time I checked it appeared that the bypass valve was opening, but I did not check since the light came back. The car seems to be running fine and I do not hear any exhaust leaks.

So, where do I start, and what are the "Unknown" codes?

 

I did that. These are the ones that came back. However, I just cleared them again. I will read them out again when the CEL comes back, but I fully expect to see these again since theyhave been there twice already. I need to get my lift installed so I can get under that and inspect the connectors and stuff. I have the interior pretty much done now. I just need to install the amp and sub and make some new little boxes for the back.

 

I drove about 35 miles. Mix of in town and highway (55mph kind). I also did a nice high speed blast taking the revs up to 8k or so at about the 32 mile mark. No lights came on. Last time it took over 50 miles before they came back on.

 

It seems that 53-55 miles is the magic number for the computer to finish "learning" and retrip the codes. They have come back twice now in this range after a reset. I also went to get the emissions this morning after about 35 miles of no CEL and it failed due to not being out of this mode yet, even though it had no codes or anything. Apparently you have to drive at least 53-55 miles before you can get the inspection, so the computer is out of that mode. Safety inspection passed though

 

The same ones seem to come back repeatedly and right when the computer stabilizes. It seams to be real problems, or non-intermittent connection problems (always there).

 

These are the first codes to pop after full reset. You just have to drive a certain distance for the computer to stabilize and these come back every time.

 

When I first got the car the CEL was pulled from the dash. When I got home I pulled these same codes and a couple more. They have come back the same after 3 or 4 resets. I have put about 1500 miles on the car and the codes have always been there as far as I know. The first 1200 were getting it home with no CEL in the dash to tell me there was an issue. I am not sure if someone was trying to hide the CEL for the sale or if it was pulled because someone gutted the cats and thought this was the best way to deal with the CEL. I would never do that. Seems ignorant to me. You can never tell if your getting a serious code.

I could not tell you how old the CAT ECU's are and I have not checked what color they are yet.

I never replaced any engine related parts yet. I have just been focusing on the interior. Now that is done other than speaker boxes and amp mounting, so I will be solving the CEL's next.

I do not know if anyone messed with the solenoids or air pump, but the bypass valve seems to be working. I do however plan to eliminate this from the system with the custom exhaust.

The car has 33k miles. I am unsure if headers or cats have ever been replaced, but nothing is leaking and sounds fine. Sure the cats could have an issue, but I won't know till I can take something apart and look at them, or monitor the 02's (if they are working right).

At this point it is really a matter of getting the car up on the lift and start looking around. Check the connectors. Check for any wires that could be damaged etc. If that all looks good then I will check for bad or possible gutted cats from a previous owner. A couple of the codes look like they could be bad 02 sensors, which could also cause the other faults. I can also monitor the 02's on the laptop and see what they are really doing in relation to each other. I guess I will also be checking out the CAT computers. How dumb are seperate CAT computers Grrr, Ferrari must be modding the signal or something so the Motronic will work with what signal is being produced. Most car computers take the signals direct.

In summary, cyber troubleshooting is probobly about over with I got my two post lift in place and the posts marked. I just need a little more time to finish the install. Unfortunatly time is my arch nemisis.....It always helps speeds things up to get some suggestions here first as others have seen the same issues over and over.

I have a feeling it is 02 sensors/CAT ECU's and/or bad or gutted cats. There are no leaks and the motor sounds good and it pulls strong like you would expect. The short to ground code should not be caused by an open or intermittent connection though. If they are using proper terminology, then this is truly a short to ground which would be a internally shorted O2 sensor or damaged wires shorting to ground. Since that code starts with a 1 though I believe it is manufacturer specific, so broken english may apply??

 

I would agree with most of WATSON's logic. Kind of the same things I am thinking at this point. I do have a question.

How do you know # 7? Do you have list of codes that actually says what that one is? If so, where can I find this. I have a few lists now, but none say that one.

That code could be because I replaced that lamp with an LED. Any lamps that are actually monitored vs just lighting up, do not like the resistance they see when looking at the LED.

I am considering just ordering and replacing all four O2 sensors right off the bat. I have not searched yet, but anyone have a link to the ones to get cheep that work? It's almost faster to take those out of the equation rather than diagnose them.

 

I don't see those part numbers for Bosch. I can't find any during a quick search on the net. Rockauto lists some different part numbers.

 

So should the Bosch Numbers be 13819 and 13820 then? Previous post had 0's in the front.

 

I ordered 2 Bosch 13819's from Amazon ($160.67 including 2 day shipping).

I figure if I am getting in there I might as well just have these on hand and put them in. I will clean the mating connector and inspect everything else also. There is a decent chance these will clear things up. I did not see any reason to replace the secondaries at this point since there are no secondary codes. I will post up my results once I get these in, inspect the other parts in the system, and drive about 60 miles to see what happens.

 

I put new primary O2's in yesterday and cleared the codes. However, I did find out my cats are empty. I do not hit anything in there when sticking it through the primary 02 hole. I fully expect the catalyst efficiency codes to return, but maybe the other O2 codes will not. I will post the next reading when the code comes back.

Now I have to figure out what to do about cats.....