Hi, I just bought a nice black Testarossa and I was wondering, is changing the clutch on a 1989 Testarossa a major job? Any good suppliers for new disks? Is the workshop manual available on the net somewhere? thanks! Tom
It's a pretty straight forward job. Plan on a new thro bearing. I also changed very rubber seal in that housing. It's cost only about $125 for all the seals. Peace of mind. Clutch masters in CA felines the clutch. Probably a $1'200 ordeal. Make sure you know your last six of the Vin so you know which variance you have. Your gonna need the alignment tool as well. I got mine done for about $500 in labor for the whole job plus fluid and thro bearing. Labor is not bad on this type on repair. Your fly wheel is going to need some clean up as well. It will need to be bled and it's also a good time to adjust the shifter. Someone on here will chime in for info on written instructions. Do a search in the meantime. Hope is works out for you. Best price I got was from TRutlands for a new clutch. If you don't know if your clutch has already been re-lined then I would opt for a new unit then rebuild the next time you need a clutch. Hopefully a long time from now. R
The manual can be found at http://www.ferraridatabase.com/index.html . I agree that changing the clutch is easy and I agree that changing the 2 orings and the rear main seal is a good idea as long as you are in there. However, if you resurface the pressure plate flywheel or center plate (if you have a 2 plate clutch..which I think you do) you need to know a few things that can make it sporty to do. First, take a lot of pictures so you know where the "H" markings are relative to the flywheel and all other parts as they are balance and must go back in same orientation typically 180 deg apart. Same with pressure plate and alluminum ring..look for paint that shows how they are allinged before you take them apart. If you need to resurface, take note of the taper pins that have a shoulder, I have seen several clutches with a lot of wear left that the pressure plate is stopping on the shoulder pins (note there are 6 pins total and only three have the shoulder) before the clutch is worn out. This is because at the factory, the assembly was designed and matched to prevent the metal plates from grinding metal on metal. The issue most people have not figured out is that you need to make new pins with a lower shoulder or turn down the shoulder. The old pins are hard to find anyway but if you do find them, simply find someone with a lathe and turn them down to correct size. Calulation is in the manual but nothing about the pins so you need to check the travel and determine if the shoulders will hinder travel. The other issue is that the pins most often need to be drilled (pressed in pins) and the three that screw in tend to break off (they have a hex on them). So I end up machine the parts. Again, not a big issue if you get a whole new assembly. If you do want to resurface the old clutch plates, call "All Frictions Inc". they rebuilt and put new friction on for me for $160 total for both plates. BTW..my car is Black
Just buy the AP racing clutch kit and be done with it. It's all balanced and ready to install. The only thing you have to worry about is getting a good machine job on the flywheel. Why waste time screwing around with pins, measuring this or that,rebalancing..never mind trying to find somebody to balance a clutch, the down time of the car etc. Order it, install it, drive it, be done with it....
I agree to a certain extent.. A new clutch if you have the later version could run you upwards of $2,800.00. Plus labor, seals, thro bearing your at almost $4,000.00 for a clutch job. You dont have to be a rocket scientist to remember how something should be assembled.. Your route is why we all have to pay top dollar for everything.. You just pay the man and move on? Cost effective repairs can be achieved with a Testarossa without compromising quality and safety.. This is the same reason why a set of HRE wheels for a Ferrari are 10 grand. The Ferrari owner is the only lunatic that would pay that amount.. If no one purchased the wheels for $10K you see how fast the prices come down. It doesnt cost that much to make a wheel. If american racing and other wheels companies can sell a wheel for $2,000.00 a set or less using the same machinery and materials why cant HRE or the other big boys in the wheels market do so as well.. The answer? Hmm.. You know.. Bottom line.. On your clutch see your options and do what is best for you and your budget without compromising safety and quality of the job.. Leave the "just buy it, install it, pay the man, and drive it etc.. " to the ball players that dont even know how to play catch... Oh no... Dont get a rebuilt clutch because you have to transfer some pins and install it correctly.. Wow.. Are we at the point that we need a color by numbers approach when fixing these cars? Take notes and pictures.. The forum is here to help. Hey Howie which model did you get a clutch for? Just curious... If your clutch was $1,200.00 new from AP I agree with you.. Testarossa clutches are not.. Forces one to look for options dealing with the pins and balancing.. Get it? R
Trouble is..The AP clutch is a far far far better unit then the original factory set-up. I'm a distributor for HRE wheels. The rims for a Ferrari are indeed 10k, but they are also 10k for a BMW, Benz etc. If you damage, chip, or scuff, send them back and they are repaired for free.
I agree AP clutch set up is better...but I like my cost better: -resurface flywheel, centerplate, and pressure plate $75 (local shop) because pins when set correctly prevents hot spot damage or metal on metal issues. -refriction both clutch plates $160 -2 o-rings from T-Rutlands $2 - Purchase plastic alignment tool (autozone) and lathe machine down pilot bearing shaft to TR size $5 -.17 pints gear lube ($45 for large Swepco jug) - My labor (all alone in my man cave with car) -priceless - machine plastic alignment tool shaft 10 minutes - machine new pins for flywheel ~4 hours - take apart clutch and reassemble ~3 hours Total cost $247 since I still have $40 of good gear lube left.
Its still exorbent... How big is the mark-up with HRE. You make 30-40 percent.. More? Less? Just curious.. R
There are more then two o-rings.. There are a total of about 10 seals+ .. Get them all.. Out of site out of mind.. R
Hello "OP"; Can you please pass along the clutch alignment tool # from AutoZone, that would be both appreciated & another tool to add to the "Crossover Thread" forum....Thanks, Mark
Really.. I find that interesting.. Do they have certain levels to which they give more of percentage to a more higher volume dist.. Do you sell or do you distribute... R
Sorry, I'm an authorized dealer, not a distrubutor..my bad. To us they are basicly a loss leader. We sell maybe 3-5 sets a year, so we are not a volume seller at all.
Hi Mark, The tool is for ford trucks and I think Range Rover clutches with 10 Splines. see picture part number 14519 Clutch-in Dorman products Colmar PA. I think I got it at O'reillys and not AutoZone..but cant remember. See the pictures. Remember, I had to put it in a lathe and turn down the shaft that goes into the pilot bearing. I know it looks short, but it is just fine for my 1988 two clutch assembly. You can see a little flash in the Splines from when I turned it down. I also put a lager taper on the end to help guide it in. Sure beat the cost of the "official tool". Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
There's an easier/cheaper alignment tool that works fine - I used 2 deep well sockets within each other for my 355. Find a socket that exactly fits the pilot bearing and one that exactly fits the clutch, then wrap tape around the smaller socket until it's an interference fit inside the larger socket and voila, alignment tool. On the 355 you have to put the car in gear and rotate a rear wheel to get the 2 sets of splines to line up due to the transverse gearbox, but I don't think the TR has that same shaft within a shaft setup.
Hello "OP"; Very much appreciate you taking the time & effort to both photo & post the information...Hope you get endless driving plesasure from your new clutch!!!....THANKS!!!...Mark
i loosely fasten the clutch assembly to the flywheel so that it can be moved by hand. Fit the transmission to the rear leaving a gap to fit a spanner in. Tighten a couple of the clutch bolts enough so that the clutch will not move on the flywheel any more. remove the transmission. Tighten and torque all the clutch bolts. Fit the transmission bleed the clutch - done go drive
Guys, I'm looking at a low mile 87 car 2,000 miles. Obviously hasn't been turned loose in the wild. I can only assume it has the original 25yr old clutch. Would you replace it on an age basis, or just drive it until it gives you issues? Also, I know this depends on driving style, but how many miles are you getting out of a clutch? Many thanks!
