For part I, go to: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=66834 ...So they deal fell through for the custom-made cooler. The supplier would've had to re-tool, just to make the core and asked for a phenomenal amount of money. Frustrated to get the car running again, I drove up to a local hot-rod/muscle car/drag-racer shop to see what they had - my only choice as I live in hick-ville and that's all we have up here The guys were very helpful and thankfully, all of the coolers they had were in stock, so they kept pulling them out to see what would match the original best. I finally settled on this model by B&M racing which comes with a fan (made by Spal in Italy! The 308 uses Spal fans in the ventilation system!). It was a tight fit, but it worked out very well. I made simple brackets to attach the cooler to the original mounting points (those who purchased my fire extinguisher brackets will recognise the construction style!). In any case, this thing works way better than the original. It runs at least 20 to 30*F cooler than the original system. The fan kicks on and off to keep the temp steady (it draws air from the wheelwell). I'm quite happy with it. This is just a temporary set-up. I will reconfigure it, so that'll I can install the duct-work to keep it looking original (fan will be mounted in the wheelwell to draw air through the duct). I'll need to fabricate a new duct, as the original is too narrow to fit around this cooler (besides, I don't want to cut it up). Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
A quick question...where does your external air intake now go to? Time for a custom air filter housing to get that intake noise in stereo!
You mean the hot air expelled from the cooler? It just dumps into the engine bay, but fortunately, the engine-lid grille is not far away, so I imagine it'll just flow out of there. The engine bay isn't any hotter than what it was before. Neither the actual temps of the engine are any hotter. Like I said the oil is reading colder on the gauge.
Peter, I meant the external intake in the corner of the rear window. On one side it feeds the oil cooler and on the other it feeds the airbox. I know if I lower the window on the side of the airbox intake I get more of that lovely induction noise. And I was thinking that if the oil is running cooler anyway (due to fan etc) then why not take advantage and route the spare external intake to the airbox too, to get even more of that induction noise?
Very Nice! How about part # and overall dimensions with fan attached. Thanks Paul edit: This must be it: http://www.bmracing.com/index.php?id=products&sid=4&cat=20&subcat=28&pid=75
http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&autofilter=1&Ntt=oil+coolers&N=4294839034+400004&part=BMM%2D70298&autoview=sku&Ntk=KeywordSearch If so, summitracing.com has them for $189.88 Image Unavailable, Please Login
Okay. No, too much work to modify the air-box to pull air in from that side. I don't know about you, but I can hear those carbs fine!
Yep, that's the one, specifically, #70298. Up here, it cost $209Cdn. The place I was talking about where I bought it from was: http://www.mopacautosupply.com/main.html
Questions: Will you sell brackets for it? Will your brackets also bolt on to a 308GTS QV? What hoses need to be changed and where to get them (or adapters)? i am basically looking to upgrade the oil cooler, do not mind cutting/modding the driver side air intake, but DO want a 'drop in' system. MANY thanks!
As i am currently investigating doing this in a month or two. Instead of all the complicated hosing, www.PegasusAutoRacing.com has a various adapters Just trying to help those who want to avoid making new hoses, and the adapters come in many forms, angles, etc.
Thanks for posting this. I presented this thread including building hoses, as my original Ferrari ones were leaking and the next set, which I had made for me, leaked as well (hose builder's fault. That's why this current set is made by myself). But if yours are still in good shape, and/or you don't want to convert to AN stuff, then these adapters would be the way to go.
I should update this thread to say I've completed my new duct and re-positioned the fan to make the whole thing look original again. I haven't run the car yet as it's off the road for other things I'm working on, but it should work fine, just as before. Loads of pics too, which I need to go through and edit before posting. I'm really happy with the way it looks.
Peter, Can you post pics? i have a 308Qv and wondering what brackets i need to fabricate... and where exactly did you get the power + for the fan? i also plan to replace the oil rubber shock mounts as the stock ones are old and hard (pegasus also has those).
They're coming, still haven't edited them yet. I simply ran a line from the starter solenoid "+" terminal along the firewall, tying it to one of the harness lines, then to a chassis tube and eventually to the fan. The fuse is located right near the fan. Saved me the trouble of running it all the way up to the fuse and relay panels (rat's nest anyways).
Does my 1979 208 GT4 have a transmission oil cooler somewhere...I now have transaxle fluid in the water radiator. This sounds a bit unusual but it is definitely that foul smelling (sulfur based) transaxle fluid bubbling in the radiator tank. Does anyone have an idea how this could be happening. Perhaps the previous owner accidentally put the transaxle oil in the radiator tank!
There's no tranny cooler on any GT4 - 208 or 308. More than likely you have a head gasket failure (you should be blowing white smoke out of the tail pipes if that's the case). Do a leakdown test on all eight cylinders to find out which cylinder the gasket is blown (keep the rad cap off the tank to hear bubbling of the leaking air into the cooling system).
Thanks Peter. The odd thing about this is that the oil in the coolant fluid is definitely a transmission oil. I can smell it. I will do that compression test and leak down test, The oil on the engine dipstick is clean and smells perfectly...no white foam from water at all on it. I am going to try doing a double flush on the coolant and see if that oil comes back. I am thinking that the previous owner might have accidentally poured trans oil into the radiator area or perhaps a service station did it. Thanks for responding.
Apparently someone poured some transmission oil into the coolant reservoir in the engine compartment.....I flushed it out with a mild detergent and over 100 quarts of hot water....still has that 80/90 gear lube scent but it is 95% better and the engine is now running cooler. Thanks, Tim
Hi Peter, So, how effective do yu figure the fan is??? I put one on my replacement cooler and couldn't tell the difference, even on the track, temp stayed about the same??? I also used a fan, but put it on the other side, as a puller; enabling me to keep the stock air intake system, with only a small bit of modification for the mounting brackets. Making up the new stainless lines was a fair bit of work, getting the lengths, just so, so that the lines and thermostat would be suspended free of rubbing on anything. I am happy to report that the thermostat gets the oil up to 140 in just a few miles and that the new mocal cooler is just as effective as the stock cooler. It is a bit longer but thinner and not quite as wide. hth, chris Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
While an oil cooler is a good thing, just make sure your modification does not over-cool the oil. Engine oil needs to reach 100c (212f) every-time you drive in order to evaporate the water/condensation in the oil.
The Mocal thermostat is a huge help getting oil tempsup in our chilly north coast. I could sometimes drive around and never see anything over 140. chris
