Indeed, also hadn't spotted that the bearing cover was different. Prsumably the secondary picture on TAV 43 (the ABS setup) is for the 88.5 cars? So the SNR bearing works Ok on the non ABS cars but not on the 88.5 or ABS cars without a modification to the seal?
Seems so. I also had to modify the stone shield by shortening it by 1mm at the narrow end so it sits slightly further out when pressed onto the hub. If doing this again I would not use this bearing, I would try to find SKF 441696M
Just a quick biit of thread resurection: As Andy said earlier i the thread , it turns out there is a procedure for dealing with the front wheel bearings in the 348 workshop manual. The 348 front hubs/bearings are identical to the ABS 328 (which is what mine is) & very similar to the Non ABS 328 as well. Page 240/section F10 refers That also states that the big nut should be done up to 250NM/25KgM (which is 180 lbft). When I undid mine the first thing I did was try & do it up again with a torque wrench & it needed well over 150lbft to get the nut back to where it had been - I marked it before I undid it - so that would appear to ring true. Secondly the 6 bolts at the back - the 348 manual says 38NM/3.8Kgm which is around 28lbft. Andyww reckoned that these bolts might be be self locking/one time use things, but they are NLA from Ferrari - it also looks like there are different versions/part numbers for them depending on whether you have an ABS car or not. I've re-used mine with some threadlock. So far I've done one side & I took it apart to replace the grease & it was a good thing to have done - what grease was in there was looking distinctly old - though the ball bearings and races looked fine. I have repacked the thing with Redline CV2 grease & hopefully (given the cost of the replacements) they will be good to go for some years to come.
Interesting thread - I have been thinking of checking my 89 328's bearings. I had not looked at the manual re that and did not realized the front bearings weren't the common tapered rollers. So, assuming the bearings are OK, are there any new parts necessary for basic cleaning/relubing the bearings?
Its definitely worth making sure they are greased owing to the huge replacement cost. As I discovered you cant really properly use the SNR (Citroen) alternative on the ABS car either, so it might be a full price Ferrari one (528 GBP) unless there is a source of the SKF. Also, the design means there is no seal on the inboard side so nothing to stop grease migrating out of the bearing into the void in the hub carrier which is exactly what had happened to one of mine. You would need a new hub nut, thats all really, as the bolts (which I am sure one of the manuals states should be replaced) are NLA. I think the best procedure for this is de-torque the hub nut by wedging the brake disk, but dont remove it or attempt to remove the stub axle while its on the car otherwise the bearing can fall apart. After de-torquing the nut, undo the rear bolts and remove the entire bearing and hub assembly to the bench to work on it as per Constances pictures above.
If you look at the parts diags there are a couple of different versions of the assembly. To regrease the bearing you are going to need to get it off the hub - or at least you are going to need to get the inboard inner race off. Once you have that off then the bearing will come apart & you'll end up with a collection of parts as per Constance's pic above & you can clean, regrease & re-assemble . The tricky part is how you get that inner race off. If you have the same version that Constance has then you can see she used a couple of bits of threaded rod through the outer ring to basically pull the thing up & in turn, with the ball bearings inbetween that would shift the inboard inner race. If you have the version that Andyww & I have i.e. the ABS version, you can't do that because there is a dust shield in the way. (see item 3 in this pic http://www.eurospares.co.uk/userImages/059/Large/059_043.gif). SO you have a couple of options. Either you get something like some cut down nails that will fit in the two holes on the front of the hub & push both the inner and outer races off . A second option would be some kind of puller - but it would need to have legs that would thread into the outer ring because the dust shield (as per part 3 in the diag above) makes it impossible to get the feet of a standard claw puller behind the outer race in order to pull on it. Or you do what I (somewhat inadvertantly) did. Where I ended up was somewhat unorthodox in that with the whole thing still on the car I took the big nut off & used a rubber mallet on the back of the disk. With the 6 bolts at the back still in situ holding the outer bearing ring in place on the hub & then worked at it while rotating the disk, it didn't take much to move the inner race back & of the end off the hub. At that point, when the thing comes free, the disk, hub & outboard inner race will come away leaving the outer race still bolted to the hub carrier & the inboard inner race + the spindle loose behind it - and a lot of loose ball bearings (28 of them!) - essentially you disassemble the thing on the hub. At that point you can then release the bolts at the back & the outer ring will come off (though it may be stuck & need some help) and you can retrieve the rest of the parts from the hub, clean it all up & then reassemble. To torque the big nut up when you are done, if you don't own a press to do it the way that Constance did, then you can just do the hub nut up by hand to hold the assembly together & then put the assembly back on the hub carrier , put the disk and caliper bracket on (and add a couple of wheel bolts temporarily to locate it & then block the disk against the caliper bracket by sticking a screwdriver down into a vent hole. That will stop the spindle spinning so you can then torque the nut up.
REALLY great info, thanks a lot - mine's the ABS version. I'll be back in MD and reunited with my 328 in about a month so I'll be re-reading this thread and the service manual (on the computer) extensively in preparation.
Did the other side tonight - it had even less grease in it than the first one. This is well worth doing I think . FWIW my car has about 40K on it. Now wondering about the rears - has anyone been in & done those?
