Fantastic car, an I am so glad everything worked out for the best! I agree this should be its own thread for a proper celebration!
It is an expensive option, +/- Euro 4000,- for something behind the seats... Also we requested the dealer to change the red rolbars into black, has anyone any Idea how much work is it? Can you remove the rolbar? or is a fitting on the spot the only way to go? One question (again not thread related, sorry) I signed the contract, made a fair deal on the 328 and even got a small discount, I thought.... In the contract it states it is a Jan 2007 car but now the dealer honestly admitted they made an clerk error/mistake. It is a dec 2006 car! . Only a small time differance but when it comes to a future resale/turnin on new car a big $$$ issue. Anyone any Ideas for settelment due to overpayment!!!! What is the value diff of two identical cars jan-2007/dec-2006? There are no two (identical) cars of 2007/2006 and appr. 3000 miles on it to find on the web. The dealer askes for a figure/settlement.... HELP!
Hi there, glad to have found some knowledgeable people regarding the clutch on the F430. My car has had a problem for two years now, and has visited the authorised dealer (under warranty) six or (possibly eight!) seven times now. The clutch was 10% worn at ~3500 miles (when I bought it), and about a month or two of ownership, the car displayed the following symptoms: *) Engine would surge, whilsts engaged in gear, and the car would fly forward (it would either surge to half open or wide open throttle). *) Engine would surge during the lightest of throttle inputs, making manoeuvering nigh impossible or incredibly difficult, as you couldn't really guess easily where the car was going to end up! *) On first trying to start the car, pulling both paddles to bring the gearbox into neutral causes it to change into neutral momentarily (as indicated on the dash display, but you can hear it physically change) and then immediately back into first (the dash displays N for less than a second, and then displays 1 again) and then back into neutral. This is accompanied by several audible clicks as the gearbox changes the gears (i.e. it is physically changing the gears, not just the display). This will cycle several times before resting back in neutral. Sometimes there would be a delay in the cycle completing, meaning that trying to start the engine would attempt to start (it will attempt firing) but would fail with the dash gear indicator blinking "1". You'd need to pull both paddles again for neutral and try the whole cycle again. *) When driving the vehicle, it will made a loud, continuous beeping sound and the gearbox display will show the last gear it was in (sometimes this would flash, other times it would be static), depressing the accelerator will rev the engine, but the car will not go anywhere (i.e. the gear is not engaged). The only way to resolve this is to turn the car off for at least 15 minutes, switch the car electrics on (but not start) and then try to cycle through reverse and then into first. This might take several attempts before working! Starting the car back up and it will then drive as normal (for a while!). *) On a number of occasions the last few days the engine revs will sometimes just surge. Sometimes in gear, sometimes in neutral, doesnt seem to be a pattern as far as I can tell. It sometimes revs to 5k rpm, sometimes to 3k rpm, sometimes it will be as if it is idling at 2k rpm. Sometimes just selecting first gear will cause the engine surge to 2k revs. Turning the engine off and on sometimes clears it, sometimes not. But it happens again within a few minutes anyway. The engine often seems like it is idling inconsistently. *) Suspension warning has come on a number of times. *) When cold, the gearbox half the time doesnt know what its doing. For example, coming from first gear and selecting for second gear, it would hesitate selecting second and instead the engine just bogs down, this lasts only maybe 3 seconds each time but that feels a long time when you're trying to get out of the way of oncoming traffic! *) The PIS point is sometimes spot on, and sometimes it seems to slip the clutch excessively. Strangely, it does it even at normal speeds changing into higher gears. For example, 3rd to 4th can sometimes feel like the clutch is slipped momentarily before finally engaging fully. That isn't an exhaustive (ha! the exhaust/manifold etc has been fixed too, a known F430 weak point) list of issues the car has suffered from, but these are most likely to have a relationship to the "clutch issue". Basically, Ferrari were adamant that this was a worn clutch issue (two years in the making! and the clutch is not worn even now. It is not slipping). At first they were of the opinion that it is not a warranty claim. They have changed their mind now and are putting a new clutch in the car. I am of the opinion this is NOT going to resolve the issues. In all, somewhere in the region of 1,500 miles have been put on my car by Ferrari or their authorised network trying to resolve issues with the car. In two years it has spent around 6 months in the workshop. I don't think that is acceptable! Can anyone comment whether they have ever experienced such symptoms with a worn clutch, or if no experience directly, could you comment whether a worn clutch could indeed cause this? Thanks very much in advance!
Electrical / ECU Electrical / ECU / TPS (TPS = Throttle Position Sensor) Mechanical, Electrical or Worn/Damaged Clutch Mechanical, Electrical or Worn/Damaged Clutch Electrical / ECU / TPS Electrical or Damaged Sensor Mechanical, Electrical or Worn/Damaged Clutch Mechanical, Electrical or Worn/Damaged Clutch Overall: I think you could have several issues. If the dealer will change the clutch free of charge (sounds like the current action) then sure, why not see what gets resolved. Mainly I think you have an electrical issue. The electrical issue is affecting at least three black boxes (ECU, TCU, and SuspensionCU if there is a SCU, might be controlled by the ECU or TCU). Possible causes in order of probability; 1. Ground issue. Make sure the engine ground and several chassis grounds (Including xCU grounds) have ZERO potential. i.e. put a Volt Meter (VM) on DC Volts, scale 20v and put one lead on the engine ground and the other on a chassis ground and make sure it reads 0.00 volts. Do the same with the ECU ground points and the engine and frame. 2. Make sure your wiring harness is intact, healthy and corrosion free. To do this unplug the ECU and TCU connectors and look at the pins carefully under excellent light. Make sure they are clean and spotless. You can also use a meter to measure the resistance through the connector pin-by-pin, it should be <5 ohms (probably <1). Make sure there is no physical damage to the harness. Make sure there is no signs of moisture in the harness or ECU area. 3. You could have a faulty ECU and/or TCU. Remember you have a L and R ECU, each running 4cyl each. 4. You could have a bad or failing throttle position sensor. It might cause the surging issue and make it difficult for the TCU to make the correct decisions. Summary: You have serious issues I would recommend trying a different dealer if they cant resolve your issues to your satisfaction. It sounds like you have a warranty, I recommend using it and demanding the issue resolved. Do you get OBD2 Errors? Have you checked? A good OBD2 scanner will read the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) value in real time, so when the surging happens you can look to see if the TPS value indicates throttle is being applied even though your foot is not actuating the pedal. Good luck and keep us posted of the progress. This could be its own thread IMO.
Unless there is something unique to Holland - cars are not sold or tracked or priced or anything by Calendar years - they are grouped by model years - so your car would be a 2007 model year with either build date. Model year changeovers are generally in the mid-late summer time-frame. In any case, the model year is what is documented on the title and build documents - that is the date that matters and determines what the car is. Unless those documents change the model year based on the Jan/Dec build date, there is nothing to worry about. I don't see why the error would make any difference to you or anybody else. There should be no difference in value at all.
Last time I mess up this thread Thx I have taken the advise and bought the car (as you can see below) I did: http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?p=141443467#post141443467
There’s a very good visual tutorial on YouTube showing what not to do in order to keep your clutch lasting longer. It’s called “Ferrari F430 spider drifting and donuts”. LOL
It was nice to see a young Rob Ferretti in the video... I was watching and was wait, I know that voice...
