KLUBER 70000789 FLYWHEEL GREASE

There are mega-posts on Kluber grease, it's possible substitutes and the results. Check them out. I'm no expert on grease, but I checked out all the info and I suggest you bite the bullet.

 

Why? What properties have you found that are necessary in Kluber that are not in others?

 

Specific viscosity at a given temp, designed for the application. Find other areas to save money, this one isnt a wise choice.

 

Obviously the Kluber was spec'd for a reason. I had never heard of the stuff until I landed in Ferrariland and am clueless as to what it really is....just curios as to what properties made it a requirement. Now I know.

Personally, I usually use what is specified unless i know exactly why, in every detail, I have chosen to deviate.

Thanks for the feedback.

 

Kluber Unisilkon GLK 1301

Base oil / thickener ester / polyurea
Service temperature range*, approx. – 40 to 180
color beige
Drop point, DIN ISO 2176, °C > 240
Consistency grade, DIN 51 818, NLGI 2
Apparent dynamic viscosity, viscosity grade** L / M
Water resistance, DIN 51 807/1, 3 h / 90 °C, rating 0 – 90
Corrosion prevention, DIN 51 802, (SKF-Emcor), test

I would think a good, temp rated NLGI 2 silicon grease should work. Let us know how you make out.

Edit: After some more searching, another data sheet lists it as NLGI 1/0. I would call Kluber and ask for the datasheet if you really want to find a proper alternative. If it were me, I'd try to find somebody else that needs it and split the cost as one can will do 2 flywheels.

37. Processo ANP : 48600.002139/2001 - 44

Marca Comercial : Unisilkon GLK 1301

Grau: NLGI 1/0

Produto : Graxa Lubrificante

Aplicação : Lubrificação de anéis o'ring de borracha de cilindro mestre da embreagem

Registro do Produto : 1373

 

OK just what is the cost for a can?

 

I paid $156 a few months ago from Ricambi and it's enough for 2 flywheels. That's basically $78.

Amen!

 

The factory likes to sell parts, they are a For Profit business. Even at that, we couldnt get new flywheels when the 355's were still in warranty. It was that fact that forced me to take the first one apart, much to the dislike of the official folks.

When the parts are no longer available, one starts to get a bit more proactive in their approach to service and risk management regarding alternatives. Maintain a constant watch for leaks from the bellhousing or an indication of grease spattered inside the housing.... you will know when it needs to come apart. If you replaced the triple seals on the shaft, you likely bought yourself a bit more time until needed.

I spent the last two weeks with seal experts regarding the triple seals as well as other sealing problem areas on these cars. We have a plan in place for a new design of the triple seals but it will require tooling being made and I have to decide if the cost is justified. The engineers looked at the current triple seal's and chuckled..... "What is this supposed to be, a baffle?... it sure isnt a seal!" Think designing hose is a yawner of a conversation... think again, seal design tops that! Feet per Second travel rates across the lip, lubricated by what, designed for what pressure at what operating temps.... then put in the variables of someone experimenting with ? for a gearlube.

 

Dave is at it again!

 

I have 2 engines that I have to pull back out because of leaks, and 2 sitting here waiting for the answers. TMan's Mondial T is now running and we will see if we have the next solution to an epidemic problem.... yours was the stepping stone before this effort.

I offered a written warranty that they would leak when I put them in the first time... that wasnt good enough, now I eat a cross country tow and get to pull the lumps out again on my nickle. When it gets to costing me This much..... two weeks investment into identifying the answer and redesigning and building parts that actually work..... yes, its justified.

My point being, these cars dont need any help leaking or failing, they are doing that pretty well with the official parts supplied. Throwing in another variable chasing guesses to save a few bucks.... that is not well advised

 

I get that there is likely a better mouse trap for the triple seals, but really... They are not that expensive and replacing them is hardly rocket science. What is the essential reason for a redesign? Are there some other hidden issues? Or are those $4.50 O-rings becoming unobtainable? Inquiring minds want to know.

And when it comes to Kluber grease, man, pay the freight and don't mess around!

 

First I would say listen to Dave. What he does works under the most auster conditions...many people's cars.

Now for hillbilly ramblings: this hillbilly only got a couple car datapoint but here is what I have done. Marine grease. Yup generic marine grease has found it was in my 348 a long time ago and worked just fine until i finally replaced it with the right Kluber which I did not have at the time I was doing my service and I did not want to wait to have it shipped. That was when I was screaming because Kluber was 80 bucks a 500G can. My car ran fine with either grease. I changed to the right grease to see if Kluber was really better. I never used the 2nd dose of kluber. In fact I think it is still in my garage. Even the wrong grease will not degrade the plastic parts or metal inside. The problem would be melting out of a wrong grease where the plastic parts could wear out from the friction of sliding around. Ferrari later came up with a TSB on the amount of grease. I forget the exact number but it was strikingly similar to 1/2 can of Kluber 250G. Gee I wonder how they came up with that number? Someone big must have hated 100G cans of kluber sitting on the shelf fooling dealers into thinking there was enough for the next job.

My question to you is how high do you fill your gearbox with oil? 99% of people fill fresh fluid to the top line on the dipstick. You do that when you change your motor oil, power steering, brake fluid, you do it on your gearbox too.

As to triple seals my ultimate solution was to fill to the lower gearbox line. No matter how careful I was putting on the triple seals the best solution was to not fill the gearbox to the limit. Less oil must roll down the shaft or get splashed up there. An interesting thing I noted with my limited datapoints was that 355's did not leak like seives like the 348. My WAG is that the 355 gearbox mount to the lower subframe is much superior than the 348 top mount only. Dynamically I wonder if the 348 gearbox is bouncing around encouraing oil up on that shaft. At the proper rideheight what is the angle of the input shaft relative to hortizontal on the 348 vs. the 355? I bet the 355 angle discourages leakage. Later I decided to race my 348. So I never used that 2nd dose of kluber because I gutted my OEM flywheel and cut 8lbs of weight out of there and welded it to be a solid flywheel. I had it balanced and ran that flywheel for years. I had no problems where my car lived at mostly 2 speeds. Idle and wide open throttle. It never blew up, never heard any weird harmonics and never wore out either. That car died a hero's death in battle slain by a panzer.