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348 Alternate Reality

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by sdiamond, May 22, 2012.

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  1. sdiamond

    sdiamond Formula Junior

    Mar 25, 2009
    304
    Kildeer
    Full Name:
    Steve
    #1 sdiamond, May 22, 2012
    After two seasons of battery drain, I pulled the alternator and had it rebuilt. They spun it first and the output was ZERO! No wonder every year was a new battery despite the tender being on. Friday last week the battery light went on and the car went dead..... Everybody is a comedian when they see a Ferrari on the side of the road. Quick ride with a friend to parts store, jacked it up put in a new battery and headed home (in rush hour) got 2 blocks from home and died again. push and a jump and back in the garage. Picked up the newly rebuilt alternator and put in in. Started right up BUT... a minute or two in and slap slap slap, it started eating the belt. Half of it to be exact. So there are two questions PLEASE: Was the tensioner too tight (really hard to tell) or was the belt just a tiny bit off center on the pulley. And two: What size or spec do I need to get another? I'm counting on the Brotherhood to come through !
     
  2. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Nov 19, 2001
    22,620
    The Brickyard
    Full Name:
    The Bad Guy
    #2 ernie, May 22, 2012
    Any pics of the problem?
     
  3. Jeff Pintler

    Jeff Pintler Formula Junior

    Jul 20, 2005
    537
    Richland
    Full Name:
    Jeff Pintler
    #3 Jeff Pintler, May 23, 2012
    When my alt. went bad, the light on the dash did not light up, so you just coast to a stop. One possible solution is one of the cigirette lighter voltmeters. They are only $6 on ebay but the lighter outlet is powered all the time so just insert each time you take the car out. I have really good luck with the neighborhood rebuild shop. For the early cars (Delco CS-130) you can get a new one for about $70-130. It is the unit for a Monaco premier 92 V-6 3 liter. FWIW.


    Jeff Pintler
    89 348tb, 86 TR, 99 360 3pedal
     
  4. sdiamond

    sdiamond Formula Junior

    Mar 25, 2009
    304
    Kildeer
    Full Name:
    Steve
    #4 sdiamond, May 26, 2012
    So, had the alternator completely rebuilt since it registered "zero" when they spun it. Got it back in place and put in a brand new battery (just to be safe). Started right up, let it run for about 20 minutes (no dash lights) and went for a 45 minute ride. Everything fine, got back to pull in garage and noticed that the battery icon light was flickering on and off. just flickering no CEL's and the battery light didn't stay on. I put the battery cables on tight, I remembered to tighten the bolt holding the connecting wire on the laternator and made sure the plastic green plug was snug..... the battery light "seems" to stop flickering above 3,500 rpm's but comes back at idle if that helps ??
     
  5. sdiamond

    sdiamond Formula Junior

    Mar 25, 2009
    304
    Kildeer
    Full Name:
    Steve
    #5 sdiamond, May 26, 2012
    btw, the previous belt was off center and not in the grooves which is why it ate half the belt. Opps... Live and learn, just keep trying
     
  6. Jeff Pintler

    Jeff Pintler Formula Junior

    Jul 20, 2005
    537
    Richland
    Full Name:
    Jeff Pintler
    #6 Jeff Pintler, May 28, 2012
    Glad to hear you were successful. Sometimes you can not rely on the red lamp in the instrument cluster. The best way is to connect a voltmeter to the battery while the motor is running. The reading should be 13.4 all the way up to 16 when it is very cold outside. That is why the cigar lighter voltmeter is a good solution. You can read a general state of charge by turning the key just to when the instruments light up (or turn on) and then see what the alternator is outputting when the motor is running. My guess is that for a reading of less than 12 volts means you have a problem. FWIW.

    Jeff
     

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