Another automatic radiator air bleeder

This nipple is under the plenum. There's also a "cross-branch" manifold that is prone to leakage and corrosion. This is a real pain in the butt to do a quality repair on, in situ. The front head gasket between cylinders 7-8 is another place to look (for seepage). Knowing where to look is obvious sometimes...I'd start with pressurizing the system with a Stant Cooling system pressure tester. The car should hold pressure (14 psi) for hours. If not, inject some UV dye into the coolant and repeat the test. FWIW, there are at least 15 junctions where leakage/seepage is possible.

The auto bleeder is a neat device, no doubt. But with good, old fashioned diagnostic work, it really isn't needed.

 

So true Mike and we're in complete agreement. The problem is that "the leak" can be pretty darn tiny...and sometimes, challenging to find.

 

I agree... LOL!

 

I couldn't agree more with you guys, and always appreciate you. I too never want to relax my standards or Band-Aid anything, but this will be a cool little safety to have in there, even after I replace everything.....especially with cooling measured in linear feet, as it is in the 3x8s Have a grand weekend!

 

Yes, I've been wondering why so many have this issue, I've change coolant three times and bled for 30 sec-1min at most and no issues.

 

"Yes, I've been wondering why so many have this issue,"

Because they haven't looked for/found/fixed the leak!

Sometimes "known" problems with any old car is not really problems per se that existed when they were produced. The 3x8 cooling sys, for example, has a greater tendency to leak over many years than say a cooling system on your Mustang simply because it has more connections/hoses/fittings due to the configuration (front rad/rear eng). Some of them, as noted by others, are not in particularly easy locations to access so hoses go unchecked/un-replaced for many years and eventually begin seeping.

Leaks can easily be small enough to cause air in the system but no coolant on the floor. It then becomes "known" that with 3x8's you have to bleed them regularly to keep air out of the system. If the leaks are repaired the need for routine bleeding will cease.

NOTE: there are other ways to get air/gasses in the cooling system ... like a bad head gasket. There are combustion leak testers for that purpose. Any repair shop should have one or you can buy one for your own "shop."

 

Poor cooling system maintenance and far, far too many cars still running the original hoses are the primary reasons. Here a shot of a QV engine coolant passage. The car was in for an engine overhaul due to massive overheating problems, which resulting in excessive leak down.
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Yuck!

 

My package from EcoGreenStore arrived today. I will get that thing on in the morning. Rob, is there no gasket or seal between the "base" and the bleed valve itself?

 

Actually not. The truth is somewhat of a mystery. Here's what we do know. The car sat for 14 years with no coolant service, so I'm told. And, when the car did change hands, it was run on 100% anti-freeze. What you don't see or perhaps don't realize is that the photo is of just one leg of the coolant branch. There are four that connect to one. One of the four branches was completely blocked with scale!! Not wanting to get into yet another pissing match regarding which type of coolant should I run in my Ferrari, some are clearly better than others.

On the 2-valve engines, you have iron liners in an aluminum block. And on the QV, you have an all aluminum engine, unless some yahoo put that Chinese "iron-impeller" water pump in the car to save a few bucks. Quality coolant is important and they are not all created equally.

Not the norm, at all...Periodic service with quality brands will yield a lifetime of enjoyment.
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Thanks.

 

Rob, sincere thanks for putting me on to that Aladdin auto vent. Fantastic device. I installed it this morning in just a few minutes, with some teflon tape and a 15mm open-end (being careful with the soft radiator metal) After the car idled for a few minutes, I could lean into the radiator space and hear it start to work. I lost my water pump belt on Wednesday morning, and have been in the process of bleeding after I left a nice trail of 50/50 on Main Street The car was back on the road about two hours later, but this vent really makes it all very simple. I couldn't agree more with everyone here about system integtity being the chief goal. As far as I'm concerned though, this little vent just brings the cooling system a bit more into the modern age. It will be a pleasure to flush and fill and bleed without turning the coolant loose. Just one less thing to have to worry about......while being great for the car. As I took a drive, I could get a real sense of the value of full-time bleeding, as the road only helps to dislodge the bubbles that can get trapped. I could just open the heater valves and watch the needle bounce slightly for a few minutes. At any rate, thanks....I'm going to get one ordered for the thermostat housing. Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

It is a great and smart little safety.

 

I received my second auto vent for the thermostat housing, but I need an 8mm to 6mm adapter. I did find one on eBay.

 

The 7mm adapter was close, but it was slightly loose and could not be tightened. I then checked the bag for my bleed screw from Ricambi and it is an 8 x 10. I will check Lowe's this weekend. It's also becoming clear to me that this radiator is just ready for rodding or recore at this point. It has been in this car since 1993. I am looking for a good shop around here and look forward to taking it in. I have no doubt that that will make a big difference as well.

 

Just checked again. Housing hole is 8mm, adapter is 7mm. I'll stop at the stores. If Lowe's doesn't have something, maybe Grainger will.

 

I did the same thing and it works great.