360 Timing Camshafts

Very nice! Look forward to the progress..
I presume you removed the valve cover to visually correlate the position of the cams..

 

you will need a SD/2 or newer to set the cams after you get it in the park .

 

And a before measurement with an sd2 before you messed with it would have been best....

 

Way to go. Look forward to following your progress. Please detail fully.

No, I don't think so.

 

An sd2 is most definitely required for this job. Checking the variator figures and making any adjustments is critical after setting the cams, otherwise the whole job is a complete waste of time....

 

Oh! From my reading of the WSM I thought the variators got checked manually with pressure and basically either worked within tolerance or get replaced. Wasn't aware of any adjustment potential via SD2.

My prior reading on the subject has seen many respected members saying that the SD2 will give less than totally accurate readings of cam positions and only then for one of the cam sets (exhaust or inlet not sure which) and not the other. Same people have generally poured scorn on the SD2 when it comes to cam-timing and suggest there's one and only one way to do it properly, dial gauges and degree wheel.

 

I use the scanner as well. I'm sure Eddie's experience trumps the regurgative internet mumble. Just my 0.02. There are only variators on exhaust for 360, all 4 on the 430.

MD, I urge caution on the treatment of the cam wheels, the variators can easily be cracked only to fail expensively later. I have had two in the past year fail after new belts at other facilities.

 

Actually they are not really "throttle bodies" as on the F355. Those individual butterflies are either completly closed or completly open to select the long or the short intake pathes. They are not used to control the amount of air which enter in the engine (throttle function).

 

It is the F355 with Individual Throttle Bodies. The 360 has throttle plates to change from the long runners used at low RPM to the short runners used at high RPM.

 

How was your engine running before you did the timing? Was it running rough or with less power than normal?

 

Thank you for posting this. It can be a very time consuming task, especially in-car, I spent maybe 6 hours on the 4 cams in a 430 this week out of the car, but every setting came up perfect and no the cam markings were NOT aligned. Maybe the naysayers can read and learn that right is right, anything else is just 'good enough' (maybe!)

 

Do anyone has experience on changing the exhaust variators?
Any tips? Advices?

 

Good job! Once the variators are set right it makes a HUGE difference, the engine is far more responsive. As you say, a real PITA but well worth the hassle...

 

There's a factory jig that bolts to the back of the head and a special socket to remove the variator once the pulley is off. This method assumes the valve timing is correct. The other way is to remove the cam and secure it to remove the variator without damaging the cam, which means you won't need the jig but you still need the socket, and they can be VERY tight coming off. I've heard of cams getting trashed during the process. In my opinion, whatever way you do it you should carry out the proper valve timing procedure as described in this thread.

 

Eddie, can you explain what electronic setting capabilities there are in relation to the variators? I was of the view that they are simply on/off dependent on RPM and that degree wheel / dial-gauge setting was purely a mechanical exercise to be carried out with the variator in the deactivated position.

 

Eddie if any of my posts have suggested any disrespect to your expertise in the past, my apologies. I know I dont want to be a contributor of comments that drove rifledriver and other gurus away. I saw in the WSM they used a vice to clamp the cam... have yo clamped it close to the variator with padding? Careful tensioning with the ultrasonic tension tool as well?

 

I understood on/ off as well per WSM as the solenoid opens and closes. Interested in answer as well.

 

You are absolutely right. The SD2 is used to purely detect actuator position relative to the camshaft. It is then used as a means to take measurements during adjustments. The reason i say it's important to check with the SD2 is that there are cars with issues out there with Variators, and also with the oil feeds that drive them. Checking the numbers can prove that the actuators are making a full sweep. Codes such as the dreaded P1520 Plausability error won't always flag a MIL, but going through all of that to get the timing spot on only to be hampered by an Actuator not working correctly makes the exersize a waste of time. If you verify the actuator is doing what it should be before and after the cams are set properely you can save yourself a whole heap of pain. There is a visual check with some marks on the body of the variator itself to prove it's in it's deactivated position, but these can't be verified once the car is all buttoned up and the motor is running... And vrsurgeon...never got that impression from you by any of your posts...you seem like a real car guy who's here to learn stuff. I think we all learn stuff from this forum once you slice the c***p away!

 

Thanks for the clarification Eddie. I think I have a better understanding now. I think what you are saying is that the SD2 or equivalent is capable of instructing an activation of the variator and confirming that the anticipated result in terms of retardation is measured vis-á-vis the previously reported position. That makes sense to me and indeed I agree wholeheartedly that it would be a terrible waste of time and effort to go through this whole process on a faulty variation system.

To the OP, MD355, well done for taking on this technical and time consuming task. I'm delighted you've achieved the result you sought and that the issues that have concerned you for some time now have been put to bed.