1998 355F1: Driving along at low speed and the F1 transmission warning light comes on & the beeper sounds. I reach to drop into neutral and the car stops running. Turning the key off and back to position II I get a solid trans light and a beep. no gear selection available. After 5 minutes, I try again and the car starts and trans light is out, I can select first...however in a very unceremonious jerky method....I pulled for neutral and got that. Selected first again and it was smooth and fine. At speed the car was fine around town it would beep and provide the solid trans light warning. It is not the pump as it is a 360 pump and I can hear it working. The relay is fine. I did change fluids in the gearbox early this week.... Redline 75W90ns What causes the F1 system to completely shut the car down???
Send a PM to Monteman or do a search from his post from last summer. Something similar happened to him while we were on a group drive and as I recall, it was a relatively inexpensive sensor issue. Good luck on the fix!
I wish you the best of luck in finding the cause of the hiccup. I also have the F1 and keep my fingers crossed each time I drive that nothing goes wrong,
Def sounds like your clutch sensor is failing of failed. This happened to me. Mine just wouldn't go into any gear. Stuck in neutral. Luckily it happened in my garage. It's about a $500 part but the labor will cost you as much as to do a clutch.
The thing that acted up on mine was the speed sensor. The F1 system was fine but when it couldn't detect a speed it basically puts the car into limp home mode which limits it to first and second gear. The tell tale on mine was when the speedometer started bouncing around. Right after that happened then all hell broke loose. Only time the car has ever failed me.
The odd part is the car runs fine for long periods of time. I drove to 30 miles north and back Sunday and it was perfect. I came home and my daughter FINALLY agreed to try and drive it. She got in started to drive it....moving slowly, short shifting at 3000rpm, etc...never got over 30 MPH...and within 5 minutes the beeping started and the car died. It would limp home in segments. beeps and the light....shut down...restart, engage gear drive 1 minute...die.....repeat. After 30 minutes of checking it looked fine,. I took off and drove for 15 minutes....not a single problem. My initial thought was some heat soak issue, but the pump is new and works. Sadly, I know that section of the system far too well. Does the clutch have temp sensor? The speedo sensor is a possibility, but my speedo reads fine. The clutch sensor makes sense as well.....and leaning toward that. I intend to check the electrical connections this evening.... The manual suggests a slipping or overheating clutch as a possible cause. Guess I need to get this to an SD2 and see what I have left on the clutch How does the system determine clutch temp? Thanks all! Any other ideas??
I'll defer to Labman whether or not that is the part he was referring to but you may try cleaning the sensor first. When my speed sensor went out the dealer recommended just cleaning it but I insisted on replacing it for peace of mind. You may want to do the same but it may make sense to try cleaning it off for diagnosis purposes to see if that helps clear it up.
Will do. Thanks! I looked at getting that out last night and it is buried in there and requires a 1.25" wrench. Surprisingly, I have a new one in a box on my bench that I bought when I got the gearbox sensor. In fact I did replace item, #81 when I did the gear oil change....hummmm Just to keep all my notes all in one place...Monteman is referring to item #34 below Image Unavailable, Please Login
That is it. Bradan diagnosed it as beng the culprit but my car is still at their shop. I haven't had it back to test it out.
Just got back from the shop. The SD computer showed a series of error codes. I have no idea how long they have been there. If I did them or the previous owner. We agreed to clear them and check again in a month or so. Interesting in that the clutch travel parameters were all over the place and the "Selection Potentiometer" was one of the error codes (#50 in one of the above diagrams). After a full reset & clutch centering cycle, everything looked normal again and the clutch showed 42% wear (is that 42% gone? or 42 % left???). So, I drove the 40 miles back home and the car is quieter....I had a slight ticking in the back before (I thought it was valves / guides). That is gone. The shifting is glass smooth....it was fine before, but now, it is just wow...smooooth. Too early to declare success, but having it reset on a Ferrari tool was nothing short of refreshing for me. Stay tuned.
Sent you a PM. The re-centering process was really fun to watch. The computer declared that we should be clear of the actuators and hit "continue". We did and the car selected gears, things clicked / clunked, the F1 display went -- and beeped like crazy. About 90 seconds later everything was completed and the car was back in neutral. The computer display showed proper parameters and showed us the clutch wear and a million other things I have no idea what they were. ....amazing to watch really.
I came across this thread because I have a similar issue as you had described in your top post... Do you have an update of what your issue has resolved to? Did it ever come back or what was the resolution?
I did three things: 1. Replaced the throw out bearing potentiometer 2. Replaced the speed sensor (just because i had one laying around) 3. Pulled apart the connection plug and replaced all the connectors with new ones. In looking at it, I am pretty confident the issues was in the connectors. Primarily the ones to the TO pot. If you are having the same issues as me, I would pop the F1 connector block open (the one on the L/H side that has the red cable [TO Bearing Pot] going into it) and take a pick and tighten up the junior amp connectors. Better yet, order some new ones and pop them in. Amazon.com: JS Products Inc 95978 Master Terminal Tool Kit - 19 Piece: Automotive Packard Metri Pack 480 Series Tools, Terminals, Seals, Housings and Cavity Plugs.
Under the left hand removable engine panel is the electrical connector (I call them connector blocks and that is not really correct...sorry for the confusion). The one you want has the large red wired coming from the throw out bearing.
