Swaybar: Saner or similarly fabricated

http://www.1speedway.com/Swaybar_Arms.htm maybe these guys can deliver? They sell the parts for sway bars in different sizes and lengths, with a bit of measuring and calculating one can pic the right parts.

 

Hey guys,

I got this quote. I sent him a print of the rear.

$400/bar minimum 4 pieces
$300/bar for 10 pieces

Doesn't include drop links. As I was typing this I realized he probably could machine the identical detail on the end of the bar so different drop links would not be necessary, but then they would not be adjustable ... just a thought.

cheers

 

I had the car on the track this week. Car was solid as a rock. No pun intended. My hat off to Rock's Auto, best upgrade I've ever done!

 

seriously?
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yeah ... I like the design you have pictured more though ... could use a lighter hollow bar.

 

With respect to Addco reason for material choice. They are a production company, and are great guys. They are Old School, no BS.

But their reasoning for choice of material is not for the best material, but for the most reasonable material in huge production batches.

There is a big difference between pallets of Dodge Ram camper bars, and a boutique run of Ferrari bars.

 

Too thick of arms, and too large of OD to fit past the front rack.

 

Cool! I only posted 'cause I thought there was no progress being made. My guy is a Porsche fanatic and making the 308 bars was a favor ... no need to use a favor if they're available for a reasonable price.

cheers

 

I have been working with a few bars on my 308 and recently sold my old saner 25 mm front bar.
I think the intermediate bars i was working with were also some of saner's earlier work.

The bar drop link angularity is right on the edge of binding and the thin aluminum spacers used to provide misalignment forgiveness are thin and difficult to torque without crushing. I had one come off at the track.

On the old photo, note the belmouthing of the thin aluminum sleeve under torque. The left one worked loose and came off.

I know there are no warranties with this stuff.

But it bears thinking about. I used longer bolts, a nut as a spacer and "safety washers" to provide better misalignment useability and spacing. With this set up, you can get adequate torque onthe link attachments.

I also erred in chosing a female heim joint for the bottom link. Water flows down hill, so use the male on the bottom and the female fitting on the top. You may use this jewel of information however you wish

regards,
chris
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You guys can relax a little bit for now as I found a shop (Ricky) that's going to make me a rear sway bar this week. He specialize in custom chassis and suspensions for both off road and street performance. The material he's going to use is a chrome molly 7/8 (22mm) tubing with .120 wall thickness, this is actually stronger than a solid bar according to him.

He's going to call me this week to bring the car to him as he's going to measure everything right there and then and want to make sure everything lined up and it's perfect (no spacers). I also told him that if this sway bar works real well, I might have some interest and do a group buy, he's respond is, sure, I don't have problem making more. I'll post pics of during and after he's done.

 

Good work Matt. It will be interesting to see what comes from this!