i just read thru all 11 pages ,great job,good luck,i used to restore cars for a living,what memorys your bringing back,,my only thought is we used to chamfer bolt holes on used ring gears do to the end threads pulling out [slightly] when torqued in place the first time,head bolt-main cap-rod bolts all do this too,,keep going looks cool
Took the supercharged UZZ32 active suspension Soarer mate. We missed you. Talk to Wes about the Soarer. He will tell you a story.
Hi Rob, I have 1991 Testarossa and when i was draining the gear box oil noticed a bolt head stick to the magnet plug.Ohhhhh nooooooooooooooooooooooo.The bolt head exactely similar to the bolts you removed in the crown gear you have. Soooooooo, I was thinking and thinking and stoped thinking in how to replace the broken bolt with minimum dismantle of the differential? My plan, is to remove the broken bolt by extracting it and then install the new bolt. Is it easy to approch the crown gear from the right side of the axle shaft assembly or from the transmissin end cover? Any idea Rob?
.......... I have an idea ... and that is that YOUR idea is NOT good ..... Read my thread about the 512TR Gearbox ....and see what it may cost you if you do NOT repair it all well ...
Bolt heads do not just shear off by themselves. There is a reason why this happened and I am betting it has nothing to do with the bolt itself. LISTEN TO MEL! You need to drop the engine and pull the Diff completely apart.
I'm pretty sure that you are about to have a catastrophic failure of your diff. If this bolt is actually a crownwheel bolt then you have a lot of trouble in there. Was the bolt attached to the sump plug magnet at the rear of the engine or the front of the engine. If it's at the rear, then it's associated with the diff. If it's from up front then it's a linkage clamping bolt from a selector assembly. You have zero choice but to pull the rear off the gearbox to access the diff and do the repair quickly before your diff blows, the crownwheel shifts and you smash your casing. I would not drive this car even 100m with this problem unless you have a very very deep wallet.
Good day gentelmen, Since i found the bolt head and i did not move the car from the work shop.He is my friend and i told him this Testarossa will spend some time in your work shop. I told him today to drop the differential to see. I will update you guys with some photos. Thanks
Very wise. I think you will be glad you did. Mine stays parked as well. No failure. Everything works perfectly. I can do a pre-emptive upgrade for 5k or wait for it to fail and spend 20k. Yes, she stays parked.
Hi Mel my diff is in and is performing very well. Actually for the first time I (accidentally) spun the wheels from a standing start and didn't need to worry. Last time I spoke to rob on Saturday he still had his hands on his "diff". That's a joke between myself and rob.
O.K. Dean, I wrote a pm to Rob abaout installing the diff ... did he mention that ? Ask him if not ... Which new diif did you install ... was it the U.K version or another ? And ... please show lost of pics of the installation/mounting in the appropriate thread please !
Hi Mel, Exactly same as Rob. Rob did a group buy. So now I have Robs Quill Shaft and Diff in my Testarossa. We also custom made a series of shims. I got mine installed at the service centre that services my cars. I am an electronics engineer...so anything electrical is not a problem. Anything minor mechanical is OK, but i dare not try to do the diff and screw it up. The consequences would be catastrophic. There were some issues with setting up the diff and selecting the correct shim sizes. Rob will explain more. The things that surprised both of us were:- Crown wheel was not flat and needed some "sanding" so that it would not foul up at certain points during the rotation. It is important to heat up the diff casing to around 70 deg c and ensure all mesh and pre-load settings are still ok. I will leave it to Rob to explain better as he is doing the work himself. Luckily Rob and my mechanic liaised on several issues which if had gone unnoticed may have been a real problem.
O.K. Dean ... clear ! In that case: you have the U.K. diff as I have too (the first batch consisted of 5; mine is # 001, Phil has # 002) Question was: foto's please ! Here two pics of measuring our old crownwheel ... it's also NOT good ..... No problem for me because mine is damaged, it goes in the bin ... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
And I have #003 and #004 and Dean has #005 of the first batch. I purchased two as I have three Testa's and only one has the later 512M diff fitted. At a future engine out service on my 87 it will also get a new diff. So Dean is first back on the road, Mel will be next, and I will probably get mine completed before Phil, although Winter is fast approaching in the UK. That twist to the crownwheel is amazing. Mine was not that bad, and Dean's was similar to mine. A slight warping which created a tight spot in the meshing of the pinion gear when the bearing preload was adjusted up correctly. Once this was removed and the crownwheel flattened the bearing preload was able to be set accurately with correct backlash of the crownwheel.
Hi Mel, Yes my diff is shimmed and in place. Some more pictures will come soon. I'm working away in Queensland on a job for the next few weeks so progress on the car will be slow for a little while. Did you ask your gearbox man for the finished size of your inner and outer shim?
Cant get hold of him, is on hollidays; one was 1.75 and one was 2.8 as I can recall ... Image Unavailable, Please Login
Here's the shims that I have had manufactured. Water jet cut and very nice fit. Manufactured from stainless shim sheet for perfect thicknesses. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Got a bit of work done today. Assembled the completed struts. Fully rebuilt by Koni. Springs shot peened, tensioned and powdercoated. Alloy mounts sandblasted, ceramic coated and hand polished. Rubber / steel mounts stripped and cad coated. Check the befores and afters. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
And today: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Amazing .......... Now you see a little advantage of the TR over a 51TR; you can really build the ncomplete sub-chassis in your garage ... In the 512TR it is welded in the car...... Very nice job Robert ... better than new ...
A few update pics. Diff is in and completed. Oil splash plate refitted. Driveshaft flanges attached and secured. All exhaust studs replaced with new and fitted with copper eze. New copper coated exhaust nuts. Ceramic coated headers. Rear breather pipes attached to engine. Rear engine mount brackets attached to engine. Brake lines attached to subframe. Shockers and springs completed. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
