Hi, I am in the middle of performing a major service to my recently purchased Ferrari 348 TS -93. There are some things I like some help with and hope someone knows and can help me... - What is the torque setting for the crank bolt? - What is the torque setting for the flywheel nut (and the allen bolt inside) - What is the purpose of the allen bolt in the flywheel? - How do I build up oil pressure before starting the engine? Regards, Johan
Thanks for your reply! I have already been looking in the manual but cant find the info I look for... The same goes for the torque to reassembly of the flywheel after a re-grease. Any ideas on that (or where in the workshop manual to take an extra look)?
it is in the workshop, look under Summary of Torque Settings crank bol, listed as Damper to Crank, 196 Nm Look under the transmission for the rest
Thanks! Any Ideas on the oil pressure build up? I did not drain the engine oil at the plug in the front I opened the plug in the bottom of the sump and also opened the valve inside that plug so i want to make sure it does not run dry on startup... Will it do any good to fill up some oil in the oil filter housing also?
If you have removed all the oil, then fill it up with 9 quarts to begin with. This is not a totally new and dry engine, so there is already oil film all over the inside. I would just start it up afterwards if all the work is correctly done. It should fire up. Some people disconnect the fuel pump and crank the engine to build oil pressure. You can do that if you like. There is no need to fill the oil filter with oil.
Thanks again! Do you think the valve plug under the bottom oil plug can cause any problems or is it just to compress the spring and re-install it again?
It may well be worth speaking to ernie as it sounds like youve done the following... Taken from www.my348.com
Just to make sure I did not mess up big time I better post a pic of the part in question so it can be fixed before startup... It is #72 (PRESSURE VALVE CAP) in the picture below, http://www.eurospares.co.uk/userImages/078/Large/078_016.gif I just loosened it then re-tightened it again, can this have caused any problems?
Uh yes it can. That is what regulates the oil pressure. #17 is the cap that covers #72. If you loosened, then retightened #17, then your ok. But if you removed #17, then messes with #72, you are going to have to make sure that your oil pressure is set correctly. If the oil pressure is too low you could starve the engine of oil and spin a bearing, or worse result in the engine seizing. If it's too high you could start blowing seals. So make ABSOLUTELY sure your oil pressure is correctly set.
Thanks for your reply, that was not what I was hoping to hear but good to hear it now so it can be fixed before a big failure I did not realize what #72 was and neither did the guys I asked before loosening it. I just wanted to make sure I drained all oil (stupid not to read the manual but to late now ). A guy that worked on both 348s and F355s that I did ask told me he normally loosened both plugs (front and bottom, not #72 and that he did not know what that plug was but that it probably would not be a problem to open it so I did, then the spring shot out and I realized that was a BIG mistake to open it. I understand that no or to much oil pressure is a disaster but how do adjust the valve (can it be adjusted)? The angel of installation of part #69 is the only part I can see may affect the oil pressure (if something other than the spring has anything to do with it). I attached a picture of the valve, Image Unavailable, Please Login
I haven't ever had to adjust that. I just know what it is because I had to replace the brass cap. Went I bought the new cap I was told not to touch the adjuster under it. So I never did. When I'm able to check my workshop manual, I'll look to see what it says about adjusting the oil pressure. Unless someone else is nice enough to chime in and help you out with info.
I think you're correct. Looks as though the valve may need to be incerted facing a certain direction, with the spring providing the proper force against the valve to regulate the oil pressure. The nut may, or may not, need to to be adjusted to provide the proper spring pressure???? It could all get screwed back together, and the spring does all the work??? Or you may have to adjust the nut??? Sorry bro I don't have a more definite answer for you right now. Does anyone else know who cares to share?
I appreciate the follow up! If someone made the same mistake as I did (or have dissembled the pump/sump) do you think it is it any risk of more parts than what is shown in the picture can be in the sump so there is reason to remove it and check? I can not imagine the nut has anything to do with the valve pressure, it just tightens a copper ring seal?! I found another picture in the workshop manual that looks like it does not matter which way the valve is fitted? But If someone can verify that I would sleep a lot better Image Unavailable, Please Login
Okay. I just had a look in my shop manual, and the spring pressure is what regulates the oil pressure valve. Here is what the manual said, From page B80 in my workshop manual: "Pressure is determined by the preload of spring 4 (Fig.58). This thickness is set during engine assembly and must never be altered." On page B77 (of my manual) is where Fig.58 is. It also shows the specs for the spring compression. So.... Looks like you are good to go. Put everything back in and tighten the nut down. Just make sure the spring and the valves are SUPER clean before you put them back in. And what do you know, the manual was for for something........FOR ONCE!
Thanks that sounds good Do you think there is risk of any more parts still loose in the sump than in the picture with the spring?
Regarding starting the engine after doing a "major", it's a good idea to use some engine assembly lube on any bearings you've had apart (eg: if you pulled your cam shafts out, smear lube on the bearing surfaces before reassemby). It's kind of like gel toothpaste... it sticks well to surfaces. That will protect things 'till the oil gets there. Depending on how perfectly clean your engine work environment was, you could also make an argument ..although it will cost some bucks.... to change the oil after running the engine for a short period of time. Technically the oil filter should catch any crud, but you never know.
Good piece of advice, I used some assembly lube (I always do that when I have the cams out to make sure they do not run dry)
