550 Dashboard Removal

550 Dashboard Removal - Part I

I’m very grateful for the valuable information this forum, and I’ve been reluctant to join in without contributing something. My 550 needed some attention on the dashboard recently, and I documented the process in the hope that it might help some other owners understand how to handle similar situations with their own cars.

The leading edge of the OEM dashboard leather had receded from the forward edge of the dashboard and exposed the yellow fiberglass structure underneath it. It happened in the area of greatest surface area, which makes sense, as it’s also the area where the most shrinkage will occur. Exacerbating the condition was the fact that the plastic defroster vents between the dashboard and the base of the windshield had deteriorated into the typical gummy polymer mess normally seen on the interior switchgear.

A word here about Sticky-no-more: the previous owner of my car had this process done on the interior switchgear of my car, and it is outstanding. It has my highest endorsement.

Previous detailers had also allowed glass cleaner to run down the inside surface of the windshield and leave ghosted rivulets between the defroster vent and the windshield, which looked sloppy and disturbing. I had looked at several dozen Maranellos over the years before finding mine, and I know that my girl isn’t the only one suffering from these maladies. Removing the dashboard is required to rectify all three issues, and fortunately, it’s not bad at all.

This procedure was performed on a 2001 550, but the 575 may likely also come apart in a similar manner.

It’s not difficult. Go slowly and be gentle. The steering wheel doesn’t need to be removed, and the radio keys are not required. In fact, no special tools are required at all.

Personally, I love the simple way that this interior comes apart. It’s logical and efficient. Domestic cars I’ve worked on have been overly complex and poorly fitted, with inaccessible fasteners and plastic bosses that weaken and break during the initial build. And my 140-series Mercedes S-class required several weird tools that appeared to have leapt from the pages of a Dr. Seuss book with names like snickalump and grublecker to remove the dashboard. Compared to those cars, the interior of the 550 is delightful to work on. I’m apprehensive of the other parts of the car, but I’ll cross those bridges when they become unavoidable.

Tools:
1. Metric ratchet set
2. Metric wrench set
3. Metric set of hexagonal (allen) wrenches
4. #1 Phillips head screwdriver (or comparably small, sharp bit)
5. #2 Phillips head screwdriver
6. #3 Phillips head screwdriver
7. Small, thin blade screwdriver for prying under edges
8. ½” tape and a thin-tip Sharpie marker for labeling fasteners


Tips:
1. Don’t force anything. Wiggle stubborn parts out. If it refuses to move, you might have missed a fastener.

2. Label removed fasteners.

3. Take numerous photographs.

4. Label connectors, especially under the row of seven switches on the center dash below the air vents.

5. When re-installing fasteners, I rotate them counter-clockwise until I feel the beginning threads jump over each other. Then I tighten the fastener by hand.

6. Don’t over-tighten the fasteners. A fellow engineering student named Chris Plucker taught me to gauge torque by the number of fingers applying force to the handle of the tool. Applying force with your index finger is low torque (about 5 ft-lbs), two fingers is medium torque (about 10 ft-lbs), and so on. I tightened the 10mm nuts and bolts to about 15 ft-lb, and smaller fasteners were two fingers or less. If you’re concerned about fasteners working loose, use a dab of blue Loctite on them.

7. BE CAREFUL of damaging your car. Be mindful of the leather; there are many sharp metal brackets on the underside of these assemblies.

8. You’ll notice that some photographs might show surrounding parts still attached, even though the instructions already indicated removal. I was learning as I went along. I’ve tried to write the instructions to make it easier, so I advocate following those. However, use your own judgment in your own work. If your car isn’t exactly similar, you might need to switch things up a bit.

9. Finally, there are several highly qualified techs on this forum who can probably do this blindfolded while discussing the relative design merits of overhead valves versus overhead cams. If this seems beyond your abilities, you might be better served by letting them handle this work. I do it because I enjoy it, and because it establishes a bond between myself and the car. It’s like learning her secrets. And yes, I know it’s just a car. But oh, you car…

10. I’ve tried my best to list all the detail steps that accompany this procedure. Each individual step below is actually quite short, so don’t be intimidated by the length of the instructions. As Rifledriver quoted in another post, it only takes about three hours to get everything done if you don’t dilly-dally. Figure twice that if you like to explore and fondle the parts as they come off.

11. Finally, the disclaimer: these instructions illustrate a mechanical procedure I performed on my own car. If you choose to use them to work on your car, you do so at your own risk. It is your responsibility to correctly disassemble and reassemble your own vehicle. As with any other mechanical procedure, injury or death can result from improper assembly and disassembly. You must use your own skill and judgment when working on another vehicle. These instructions are a guide and are not guaranteed correct or perfect, and they are not a substitute for common sense or skill or judgment. If something doesn’t seem correct, or if you’re uncertain of the correct procedure, seek professional help.


First Things:

1. Move the seats rearward and downward so they’re flat. You’ll be perched on the front of them as you work, and if they’re reclined, you’ll constantly be sliding rearward.

2. Lower the windows.

3. Rotate the battery switch to the ‘off’ position.


I. Center Section of Center Console:

1. Use a 17mm open-end wrench to loosen the locking nut under the shifter ball.

2. Unscrew the shifter ball and the locking nut. Set aside.

3. Use the #2 Phillips to unscrew the four H-gate corner screws.

4. Remove the H-gate and the plastic spacer beneath it.

5. Open the ashtray cover. Remove the ashtray insert.

6. Remove the ashtray screw.

7. Close lid. Gently lift ashtray unit up and out of the console. Disconnect the wires. Set aside.

8. Remove the two screws underneath the ashtray unit.

9. Insert your hand into the space where the ashtray was and GENTLY lift the black center section up. The radio isn’t fastened to the car; it’s only fastened to the black center section by a long bracket.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1370997&stc=1&d=1313014503

10. As you lift the center section up, disconnect the power mirror and hazard/parking light harness. I left the switchplate in the center section.

11. Disconnect the radio harness. Leave the radio in the section. Note that the radio is secured at the bottom of the bracket with a screw, which precludes removing it with just the Becker keys. I left my center section in place for a few more steps, but you can set it aside if desired. CAUTION: the Becker radio unit has sharp scalloped edges, so don’t let it hang over the leather of the center console.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1370998&stc=1&d=1313014503

II. Binnacle:

1. Remove the circular air vents. No fasteners here, just a press-fit. Tape the blade, then slip the long, thin-bladed screwdriver between the leather and the edge of the vent. Push far enough inward so that the blade catches the edge of the vent housing, and not just the rotating vent ring. Pry upward a little, then rotate about 90 degrees and pry up again. Repeat until the vent can be pulled out.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1370999&stc=1&d=1313014503

2. Remove the seven switches above the climate control unit, each one separately. Tape the blade of your thin screwdriver, then insert it under the lower front edge of the first switch. Gently pry upward, wiggling it if necessary. Once the front spring clip pops up, move your screwdriver to the rear of the switch and work it up from there.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1371000&stc=1&d=1313014503
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1371001&stc=1&d=1313014556
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1371002&stc=1&d=1313014556
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1371003&stc=1&d=1313014556

3. Pull the switch and the harness out through the bezel. Label the harness connector with your marker (ASR, Sport, Fog Lamps, etc.). It is logical that the harness connectors would stay in roughly the same position, but once the dash is off, they’ll get out of order. If you connect the wrong switch to the wrong connector, such as the ASR switch to the Sport connector, it’ll throw a code. Ask me how I know. Easy to clear the active fault, though.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1371003&stc=1&d=1313014556

4. I chose to remove the climate control unit at this point. Insert your fingers through the switch bezel and push gently on the backside. Then unplug harness, set aside.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1371004&stc=1&d=1313014556

5. Peer into the space behind the switches. There is a bolt on the left and a bolt on the right. Remove these. Mine were 10mm.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1371005&stc=1&d=1313014680

6. Raise steering wheel. Remove the short gold screws and two long black screws from underneath the lower steering column cover. Remove the lower plastic cover.

7. While you’re down there, unplug the harness connectors that lead to the binnacle. This is also a good time to unplug the driver’s side dash speaker from the main harness.

8. The leather flap between the binnacle and the upper steering column cover is attached to the upper steering column cover with Velcro. Rotate the upper steering column cover so you can access the underside. Peel off the Velcro. The leather flap stays attached to the binnacle.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1371006&stc=1&d=1313014680

9. There are three bolts that secure the binnacle in this area. The obvious ones are on the left and right of the steering column, facing forward. The other one is hidden on the left of the steering column, kind of below the coolant temp gauge. It’s perpendicular to the steering column.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1371007&stc=1&d=1313014680
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1371008&stc=1&d=1313014680
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1371009&stc=1&d=1313014794

10. The rear of the binnacle is attached by plastic studs. Wiggle the front of the binnacle upward and gently work the rear (facing the windshield) off the studs.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1371010&stc=1&d=1313014794

11. Disconnect the harness from the three gauges on the right of the binnacle. Remove the binnacle.

12. Now is a good time to disconnect the sunload sensor on the dashboard, too.



III. Hood Release Trim Panel


1. Pull hood release handle forward. Remove the nut from the screw securing the hood release cable to the plastic hood release handle. Using a pair of needle nose pliers or similar tool, pull release cable from the eyelet to take the pressure off the screw, then pull the screw out. Let the release cable relax back into the housing. It shouldn’t go far and should still be visible.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1371011&stc=1&d=1313014794

2. Unscrew the two hex screws behind the hood release handle.

3. Remove the two screws at the top of the housing, inside.

4. Pull the hood release bezel out and disconnect the dimmer switch from the harness.

5. Remove the two nuts on the right edge of the trim panel.

6. Slide trim panel off.

7. Remove the four screws that secure the hood release cable bracket to the fiberglass of the dashboard.


IV. Glovebox:

1. Pull the forward section of the passenger floormat down to expose the kick panel bolt at the upper right corner. Remove this bolt.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1371013&stc=1&d=1313014890

2. Peel up carpet at bottom of kick panel. Remove or loosen this bolt.

3. Pull the kick panel towards you, then pull to the left. Move it out of the way.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1371014&stc=1&d=1313014890

4. The forward bottom part of the glovebox is secured by four #3 Phillips screws, with two each on the left side and the right side. Remove these screws using the #3 Phillips head screwdriver; using a #2 risks stripping the screw.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1371015&stc=1&d=1313014890
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1371016&stc=1&d=1313014890

5. There should also be a single screw at the center rear bottom of the glovebox. Remove this as well.

6. While you’re down there, reach up on the left side of the glovebox and unhook the glovebox door spring from the bracket.

7. Open the glovebox door. Remove the door arm bracket from the door.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1371017&stc=1&d=1313015035

8. Remove the bracket from the arm. Let the arm slide back into the hole.

9. Remove the four screws from along the top forward edge of the interior of the glovebox. These are also #3 screws. DO NOT remove the latch.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1371018&stc=1&d=1313015035

10. Close and latch the glovebox door. Pull it gently forward, being mindful of the arm on the inside. You might need to open the door to finesse the arm out of the hole, but beware that the glovebox door hinges are just press riveted and are very weak. Any torsional stress will cause them to pop. You can carefully re-press them, but it’s a pain.

11. Disconnect the light harness. Set glovebox aside.

This concludes Part I. Part II is in a separate thread so that additional photographs can be added.

 

Part II:

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=333402


Part III:

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=333408

 

You say way to clear the active default of you connect the asr switch to the wrong connector. How do you clear the active fault??

 

Hi, Genyosai. I just finished reading about the travails you've been experiencing with the ABS/ASR system, and you have my empathy. In my case, as soon as I swapped the switches back to the correct connectors, the problem went away, and the code is no longer active (if I understand the system correctly). The code is stored in the ECM's memory, though, which causes the warning light to remain on. Disconnecting battery power for several minutes fixed this, and to my knowledge the code was no longer active when the ECM was hooked up to an SD workstation at FoA.

I hope you have a quick and successful resolution to the ABS/ASR issues. I know I'm not the only F-chatter waiting to learn what the problem ultimately is. Good luck and best wishes.

 

Hi Soren,

the rotating rings on the air vents of my 550 have suddenly become sticky this summer. All other surfaces are still free from this problem.
Can they be stripped and repainted? I have a matt black acrylic paint from Tamiya that matches the ring's colour, but I don't know how to strip the sticky paint.
Any suggestion would be much appreciated.

Stefano

 

Hi, Stefano. I know what you mean about sticky vents- I looked at buying a 2002 575 before buying my 550, and the vent rings were gummy on that one.

The good news is that you should be able to refinish the rings without too much trouble. I used the Fume Free Easy-Off oven cleaner (blue can) and a fine 3M scuff pad (available from any auto body shop, or possibly even WM). It will likely take a few re-applications to get all of the sticky polymer coating off. The most important part, in my opinion, is to remove all traces of the sticky coating before drying it and attempting to re-paint it. Any residual traces of sticky coating will be painfully obvious after the new paint has been applied. The plastic trim ring surface should look kind of dull gray and completely smooth before applying the paint. This will be especially true of the little scalloped notches on the ring edges.

I'd also be careful about only getting the oven cleaner on the trim ring itself. It wouldn't be good if it got into the vents or the interior channel of the vent body and melted the plastic in those areas. You might be able to disassemble the vents, but I haven't tackled that, so there's probably a learning curve there.

I'm not familiar with the Tamiya paint. Acrylic paint quality can vary widely, depending on the solvents and binders and pigments it contains. If it really matches well and has the same matte sheen as OEM, then cheers. The SEM aerosol paint is very high quality, and the black trim paint (I think it's part number 39143, but could be wrong) has always given me great results, as have their other colors.

I hope the refinishing goes well. Post some photographs when you get done. I'd love to see the results. Good luck!

 

Thanks for the advice Bryce,

I'll give it a try during the winter pause and surely post some pictures!

Stefano

 

Another winter project for me, building on Soren's excellent "dashboard series", was to remove the passenger side airbag and re-attach the leather which had developed an air bubble.

In this threads Soren describes how to remove the glovebox (straight forward) and then the airbag assembly (some trepidation, but straightforward). [Pic 1]. There is a simple connector to the airbag and once disconnected, 4 bolts and it's out.

Intriguingly the 575 WSM describes the airbag being deployed by (high) temperature (!). It also contains some very specific handling precautions.

Once the assembly is removed from the car, it became apparent that removing the leather trimmed cover from the underlying airbag assembly was not feasible. If it can be done, I suspect a job for a pro. (As an aside, the bracket from the cover is riveted to the frame of the airbag and the WSM describes how these are designed to break on deployment of the bag). For my project thankfully this was not needed.

I peeled the leather from the upmost edge of the cover and it easily separated from the foam underneath which itself is covering what I assume is a fiberglass substrate. I covered the foam surface with 3M Blue 72 spray glue (this can be seen in the second pic) and let it become slightly tacky before folding it back over the form and pressing the edges of the leather into the rear side of the cover. Then it was a question of massaging the glued surface to free any trapped pockets of air. I should have let the glue become tackier before I rolled the leather back over the form as it would have made the reattachment process a bit quicker. Anyway, the leather is now smooth and air bubble free. I am not sure how easy this is to see in the picture.

I will let the glue dry overnight before reassembling and check it again before it goes back on. For the rear shelf I had used a stronger 3M spray glue (white) and i want to make sure the blue stuff holds up.

Thankfully the rest of my dash is in very good condition. A week or so ago, I slathered it all with Leatherique which brought all the impurities to the surface as it dried which you may be able to see in the first pic. I cleaned off and will see if it needs a second coat.
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And all buttoned up again! No "big bang" from the airbag either!
Philip
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Hi Phillip... My name is Stuart.. I have a 550 and just purchased a pristine 7,000 mile 575 with a 6 speed gated shifter like yours... Two small bubbles in air bag leather that I will tack maybe next winter.... Not a scratch or chip on car... I'm in Pennsylvania ... Where are you?

 

Hi Stuart. I am in Chicago. Pretty easy DIY job.

Will you keep the 550?
Philip

 

Yes... Definitely will keep the 550... That is a great car... Very highly optioned... Full carbon fiber package from factory, Daytona seats, rear leather shelf, quilted leather headliner , leather upper same color, modular wheels, red.calipers... Grigio titanio with charcoal interior ... Very elegant.... The 575 is typical red/ tan... I had NOT been looking or wanting for a 575 but this was too good to pass on as it has low mileage and gated 6 speed... Do you think values on 550 and 575 will start to appreciate someday?.... I love both cars!!!.. The look screams vintage ferrari ... Lines at gorgeous!... Do you have any pictures of your car?...stuart

 

Have to take some when the weather improves!
Philip

 

Bryce, sorry for the offtop question... Which sort of material is use for top of the dashboard? Is it plastic or leather?

 

Leather.

 

Terry, thanks a lot for info.

 

I just wanted to add a quick addendum to this excellent thread. I was trying to remove the middle part of my center console today (the part that holds the radio) and none of the threads I found mentioned this bit - the front of the panel is sandwiched between the upper and lower dash and you need to pop out the HVAC unit and loosen the 2 10mm nuts before the center section will slide back! I damn near broke mine before I figured it out.

Very helpful thread otherwise, just wanted to help anyone else who might encounter this.
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I remember a thread that referred to material other than leather for better sun resistance. I recall an aircraft application. anybody?

 

Gooey switches...

I am dealing with a few sticky issues before they get too bad. I have done the eyeball vent rings and the switches controlling the windows et al (see pics) and also the door release handles. Does anyone know how to remove the housing on the 575 that covers the trunk release and fuel cap buttons which i'd like to address too?
Philip
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I am in process of removing sticky parts for refinishing.This thread has been most helpful. I am having difficulty removing hvac panel. I don't want to force anything. It is not popping out like the photo. Am I missing something? I don't want to force anything.

 

The first time you remove it, it's usually stuck in there from 15 years of never being removed previously. It's easier with the 7 switch panel removed above it, but if you're not going there, it just requires a little more motivation. Tape up a small bladed screw driver and wedge it between the leather dash and the HVAC unit from the side...then move to the other side, walking it out back and forth...

 

I did mine recently. Use two fingers to spread the force and push from behind.

 

I am already going to thank the OP for posting this even though I have not yet started the process.

What did people do before the internet?

 

Hi Soren - just a thank you to say, 9 years on from your original post it's still proving invaluable and one of the best resources out there on this topic!

I just stripped my car down to deal with the dreaded stickiness and it was a great source of inspiration and reassurance.

Thanks a lot for sharing
John

 

thanks for posting this