oil research question

bobistheoilguy.com - motor oil university

 

If you're brave enough to risk catastrophic failure of your engine to eek out another 30,000 miles on the end of it's wear life... Maybe that means your Ferrari will make it to 130,000 miles before needing a rebuild, or your Ford to 260,000, but if you mess up with getting your motor oil selection advice from a surgeon instead of the people that engineered your car... oops.

On the other hand, if you have other questions about oil, there are a lot of smart people here as well.

 

i remember reading about how he loosened oils lines to drain every bit of oil so that he can replace it with the "correct" weight. also remembered him describing the noises at startup. he probably caused more wear and tear on that engine with that procedure than driving 100,000 miles with the factory recommended weight.

 

Just exactly what are you looking for (if other than BITOG)?

 

His username is actually "AEHaas"... I never read any of them (his threads about motor oil) ---- but, here are a bunch of them.

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/search.php?searchid=6191591

BTW, I used the advanced search option with "AEHaas" entered as "threads started by user" and "motor oil" as keywords --- enjoy.

 

Geez

Hi Mike !!

I didn't realize this was you ----- been a long time ---- How have you been ??

LOL --- I bet that poor guy is still shaking from you showing up at his shop that day in full uniform !!!!

I ended up never using those tires, because by the time I finished the restoration, I had decided to switch to 16-inch wheels, instead

Hey, send me a PM sometime with your current phone number...... The wife and I are taking a trip back to visit Colorado in October ----- it would be nice to get together for a beer if you are available

 

Why don't Ferrari owners just use the manufacturers suggested oil if they have concerns and be done with it? Do you think their trying to trick you?

 

In some cases, the useage is significantly different than the useage which is optimal for the factory specified oil.

AEHASS, for example, has primarily short trips and never actually pushes the throttle all the way to the floor. For him, a thinner oil is better than factory spec and provides longer engine life. Thin oils (0W-20s for example) reach operating viscosity within minutes (rather than 20 minutes) and minimize startup wear.

Challenge cars, as another example, are run as hard as possible as long as possible with oil temperatures at or above the redline on the oil gauge. For these applications an oil thicker than factory spec provides longer engine life. For these cars, race oils are 93%-ish base stocks, much of the rest is antiwear agents, with few detergents, dispersants, or corrosioin inhibitors. This oil gets dumped after ever race weekend.

For most of us, who start the car and give it a nice long run over the backroads, not stupidly fast, but using the car as intended, the factory spec oil is just fine. These oils are about 87% base stocks and the rest is the additive package. These oils have a slightly lower anti-wear package, and significantly more corrosiion inhibitors, detergents, dispersants, and things that are good while the motor sits waiting in the garage.

No one weight/grade of oil can cover this vast different use scenario range. And in all three cases, the actual operating viscosity is rather similar! Oil weight/grades are not viscosity, but a set of limits at various temperatures where the oil's actual viscosity has to pass between. You change the oil temp, you change the oil viscosity--and it is viscosity that provides most of the protection the oil provides. So AEHASS's 0W-20 oil at 160dF has the same operating viscosity as the challenge cars 15W-50 oil at 305dF, and the same operating viscosity as the factory spec oil at 230dF. Oil is about viscosity--not SAE weight/grades.

Choose wisely.