Lubricating Window Motor Gearbox

You will want to pull the cable and regulator. You will need to disassemble the regulator on a bench and clean. A dremel with wire brush came in handy for this.

 

I was able to remove the motor and re-grease it and the gears with out cutting the cable.

 

I have always wondered the exact same thing, it seems a carefully drilled access hole at the worm gear, and a grease gun needle could get the thing 'freed up" again without the hassle of R & R the entire cable...

I dunno.

I just leave mine down....

 

See "Repairing Slow Windows" on Birdmans website

http://birdmanferrari.com/index.htm

 

The issue with the regulator is the old grease - it is, by this time, hard as a rock. You need to remove the old grease.

 

Yea, wax by now, I suppose...

 

I remember a post a while back from a guy who drilled through the door into the gearbox and spayed in WD-40 to loosen up the old grease. He said it worked. Wouldn't recommend though.

 

Here is the link. Idea of drilling holes troubles me though.


http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=289843&highlight=wd40+window

 

i agree with PAD. the grease in mine was rock hard. i never could have freed up the drive without totally disassembly. jon s.

 

What is the reason for cutting the old cable?

 

IIRC, it dead heads at both ends, inside the spool.

 

No need to cut the cables if they are in good condition. Just make sure you count the wraps before you unwind as you will have to be sure to have the correct number of wraps around the spool when putting it back together. Use wire ties top hold the wraps when reassembling.

 

Good to know...
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I just re-spooled the lines with out the window connected, ran it up and down a few times to get the lines set on the spool, then attached the window.

 

Before you do that check your fuse blocks. If you see any signs of slight melting (deforming) take out the fuse block and either repair or replace with Birdman units. Even if there isn't melting, oxidation on the contacts can cause enough contact resistance to slow the windows (and, by the way, the radiator fans). I ended up soldering my original blocks because they were still in pretty good shape and then I replaced all the fuses with new ones. Between re greasing the motors and the fuses box fix I'm happy with the windows. They aren't lighting fast, but more that satisfactory for me.

With regard to cooling I would add that while my car never over heated the gage would get to 210 or so on a really hot day when idling in traffic. After I repaired the fuse block it never gets above 195.

 

If you are just greasing the motor, here are the following steps;
-I used a sharpie to draw the path of the cable on the door. You could also use some thin drafting line tape if you didn't want the permanent line.
-Wrap the cable around the spool 3x and use a piece of tape to hold the ends together. This can be loose for now. You just don't want it to come unfurled.
-Mount the motor back in the door leaving the excess hanging out the rectangular hole in the middle.
-Following the lines on the door and run the cables around the pulleys.
-Take up the slack by raising the adjustable pulley. At this point the tape should come undone. (remove said tape)
-Run the motor up and down a few times. This should cause the cables to seat in the grooves of the spool. When you reach the end of the run, the adjustment pulley may move. Loosen the stress on the line and take up the slack again.
-With the glass resting at the bottom of the track, run the motor till in reaches the bottom of its travel.
-Attached the cable to the window bolts, and test raising and lowering the glass.

Note: If you replaced the flocking, replaced the pulleys, greased the motor, and added the relays, the stress on the window cable bolt and washer will be a lot higher. I recommend grooving and bending the washer so it does not pop out. If it does pop out it will sound like a guitar string.

 

If you cut the cables, BE SURE TO MEASURE THE ORIGINAL CABLE!!

My cable length was significantly shorter/longer (can't remember now) than Birdman's tutorial.
In no way is he to blame, as I have an early GT4 and his tutorial is not for my car, but you're better off knowing EXACTLY what needs to be replaced.

Also--
Be sure to cut it as close to the ferrule as possible.
This way you can easily measure, rather than trying to measure shredded sections.

I still haven't put my windows back together cause I can't get the cable wrapped round the spool correctly; tried 10 times and failed every time.


Sent from my iPhone
(which probably means I'm sitting at my car, confused)

 

No need to cut any cables on this R & R. Just remove them off the pulleys and away you go. I really doubt any injection of wd40 will loosen up what I found when I opened mine. The grease was all solid as a rock. Amazing it turned at all. You'll have to chip it off the gears, regrease and reassemble. Cables only need replaced if they are broken.

 

I used white litium because it clings good. You don't want the grease to slide off after a few years. You can pick up a tub of it at any of the chain autoparts stores.