Trouble in paradise | FerrariChat

Trouble in paradise

Discussion in '348/355' started by FDT, Nov 20, 2012.

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  1. FDT

    FDT Formula Junior

    May 18, 2010
    423
    La
    Full Name:
    Ric
    Well it finally happened after 2 years of ownership, I have the first problem. I have a 95 355 and I took it out today for a little exercise, after about 15 min the car lost power and I got my left bank slow down light. It stayed on for about 1 min and went out but the car was definitely way down on power. I am pretty sure I lost entire bank of cylinders. I drove about a mile to home and immediately took a temp reading on both headers. The left header was 165 degrees and the right was 400. Pretty obvious that the left bank was not producing any power. Restarted the engine just to see and same results. Temp reading on left header showed no temp increase while right header showed immediate temp gains. Other than the temp flashing of the slow down warning light no other lights are illuminated. help.
     
  2. Nosevi

    Nosevi Formula 3

    Jul 8, 2011
    1,990
    Lincoln
    Full Name:
    Pete
    If it's the same as my 348, which I believe it is, you may either have a left cat overheat, or more than likely, the system thinks you have a left cat overheat. I had it happen once with my OEM cats but when I changed them to sports high flow cats the mechanic disconected the sensor. Said the new Cats were designed to run at a different temp anyway so the system was pointless.

    I believe the system throws a spurious overheat reading far more often than a cat genuinely overheats so I wouldn't worry overly but you can either check the temp on your left cat (think you can get a laser thermometer thingy to do this) or just switch the sensors from one side to the other. If this gives slow down lights on the right side you know it's a sensor fault not a cat fault.
     
  3. MarkCollins

    MarkCollins F1 Rookie
    Owner

    Jul 2, 2002
    3,202
    South England
    Full Name:
    Mark Collins
    Is it a 2.7 car? If so you can disconnect the wires from the cat ecu on the left bank, if the power comes back you'll know it's the cat ecu(common problem) or one of the sensors, you can swap sensors left to right to see if the problem moves with a particular part. Slow down light would suggest its cat ecu/sensor related

    If the power doesn't come back then then it's something else, throttle pot, fuel pump, coil, ecu, any could take the whole bank out, again you can swap parts between banks to see if the problem moves
     
  4. Chupacabra

    Chupacabra F1 Rookie
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    Sep 30, 2005
    3,583
    Behind a drum kit
    Full Name:
    Mr. Chupacabra
    Seems cats are just too much trouble waiting to happen.
     
  5. GerryD

    GerryD Formula 3

    May 5, 2010
    2,444
    North of TO
    Full Name:
    Guido
    More than likely the cat ecu. Swap left to right and see if it changes sides.
     
  6. J. Salmon

    J. Salmon F1 Rookie
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    Aug 27, 2005
    4,367
    VA
    Yup, cat ECU. Easy fix, Ricambi, get the green ones. I'd go ahead and do them all.
     
  7. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Nov 19, 2001
    22,620
    The Brickyard
    Full Name:
    The Bad Guy
    As the others have said, cat ecu's. Swap em from side to side to see if the problem jumps sides.

    On a side note, what are you coolant temps while driving?
     
  8. Saint Bastage

    Saint Bastage F1 Rookie

    Jun 1, 2007
    2,548
    Connecticut
    Full Name:
    Lane
    #8 Saint Bastage, Nov 20, 2012
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2012
    What am I missing? Everyone is jumping on the Cat ECU sending a bad signal. Unless I read it wrong, he said he took a temp reading and got 165ºF and 400ºF. Can a bad cat signal cause a physical issue? If not, that's not Cat ECU throwing a bad signal, its a possible real problem. A failed cat blocking flow? a bad injector? Burned valve? Pure guesses... I'm not qualified to say. Get more expertise than I can provide.

    Ohh...wait...The 400ºF is the normal bank...the 165ºF is the non-firing bank. Nevermind...I'll shut up!
     
  9. FDT

    FDT Formula Junior

    May 18, 2010
    423
    La
    Full Name:
    Ric
    Thanks everyone, I will pull the module to see if it works. I do have another stupid question. How many are there and what does the green ones mean
     
  10. cf355

    cf355 F1 Rookie

    Feb 28, 2005
    4,208
    Full Name:
    chris
    The modules , there are 2 , are about the size of a package of cigarettes, and are located in the left and right rear of the engine compartment.
    The reference to 'green' ones is referring to the epoxy coating used to seal the modules.
    The epoxy coating colour was changed on the newer modules and they seal better than the original ones.
     
  11. cf355

    cf355 F1 Rookie

    Feb 28, 2005
    4,208
    Full Name:
    chris
    Did you pull the codes?
    Did you thermal scan the cats?
    If so what were their temps?
     
  12. FDT

    FDT Formula Junior

    May 18, 2010
    423
    La
    Full Name:
    Ric
    Ok I started the car again after it was cool and it ran ok for a few min then went bad again. This time the slow down for the right side came on? pulled the wire from the cat to the ecu on the left side and the slow down light came on but still ran rough. Pulled both sides and both slow down lights were on, not surprising since both thermo wires were pulled. Car still runs as if on 4 cylinders. The temps on the left cat was around 300F and the right about 500F.
     
  13. cf355

    cf355 F1 Rookie

    Feb 28, 2005
    4,208
    Full Name:
    chris
    Try swapping the modules lft to right and see if the problem switches sides as others have suggested.
    Disconnecting the modules will not diagnose anything.
    Its possible you actually have an issue and are dumping fuel into the exhaust and the ecu's are working correctly.......however before you go there you should try swapping the ecu's.
     
  14. plugzit

    plugzit F1 Veteran
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 1, 2004
    7,792
    Redondo Beach, CA
    Full Name:
    Bruce Bogart
    You in LA or La? If LA, plenty of guys around here, so probably easy to get somebody to look at it.
     
  15. FDT

    FDT Formula Junior

    May 18, 2010
    423
    La
    Full Name:
    Ric
    How do I know which one is bad since both slow down lights have flashed at me? And by the way, the epoxy is green on both of them.
     
  16. cf355

    cf355 F1 Rookie

    Feb 28, 2005
    4,208
    Full Name:
    chris
    Originally you had the left slow down light.......on restart you had the right slow down light but unplugged/ reconnected the modules.
    Is it possible this caused the new slow down light? Is everything plugged in correctly?

    I would first read the cel codes.
    Then, I would start fresh......erase the codes (disconnect the battery for a minute) and restart the car letting it 'relearn' (idle, no a/c, fan off and no gas) for 12 minutes.

    Then see what happens with the cel light.
     
  17. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Nov 19, 2001
    22,620
    The Brickyard
    Full Name:
    The Bad Guy
    What

    Is

    The

    Coolant

    Temperature

    When

    The

    Slow

    Down

    Lights

    Come

    On

    ???????????
     
  18. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Nov 19, 2001
    22,620
    The Brickyard
    Full Name:
    The Bad Guy
    Here is the deal, something is causing your slow down light to come on.

    What?

    The possibilities:

    1) Faulty catalytic converter temperature "ecu"
    2) Faulty thermocouple
    3) overly rich air/fuel ratio
    4) Failed catalyst matrix
     
  19. FDT

    FDT Formula Junior

    May 18, 2010
    423
    La
    Full Name:
    Ric
    Sorry, the coolant temps are normal, around 190.
     
  20. FDT

    FDT Formula Junior

    May 18, 2010
    423
    La
    Full Name:
    Ric
    I switched the cat ecus from side to side, both correctly connected, and either way, the car only ran on 4 cylinders. No lights were lit on the dash, slow down or check engine. When this first started the car would run fine until it warmed up, but now even after a cool down it only runs on 4.
     
  21. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Nov 19, 2001
    22,620
    The Brickyard
    Full Name:
    The Bad Guy
    Okay then move on to the next thing if swapping the cat ecu's didn't cause the light to jump.

    If it were my car I would pull the cats and inspect the condition of the matrix inside them.
     
  22. WATSON

    WATSON Two Time F1 World Champ
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    Sep 9, 2010
    23,914
    WI
    Fixed it so Ernie could read it. :)
     
  23. FDT

    FDT Formula Junior

    May 18, 2010
    423
    La
    Full Name:
    Ric
    Since now the car seems to only be running on 4 cylinders, what's causing this? How can a blocked cat do this? I don't want to take the cats off to inspect them without knowing how they can affect the engines' running.
     
  24. bosshog8

    bosshog8 Formula Junior

    Mar 13, 2011
    448
    Pinelands NJ
    Full Name:
    Demetrius
    If a cat is no good it means it melted inside and is now plugged. It's just like stuffing a banana in that side. No where for the exhaust to go. The only way to know for sure is to take it off and look inside.
     
  25. FDT

    FDT Formula Junior

    May 18, 2010
    423
    La
    Full Name:
    Ric
    Another thing though, why did it run fine when cool, then all of a sudden drop to 4 cylinders when it warmed up? It did this multiple times before it finally got to running on 4 all the time.
     

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