Thank you spiderscott for an excellent writeup / pics. My outer door handle cable came loose (cable detached from the plastic holder) just this morning. It was a 30 minute job to put it back in with following these instructions. Thanks again!
Yes, I concur, this thread and the one referenced above should be all you need. A bottle or two of beer and some patience will be of assistance too but you should get there, Thanks again to to the contributors for these detailed thread got me out of a hole too!
I had this happen to me yesterday. Last night I followed both of your instructions and managed to get my door working again. However, in my case THE CABLE WASN'T EVEN BROKEN, even though it showed ALL THE SIGNS you described. I put WD40 on everything mechanical, especially the cables, I could see then worked all the parts really good and it works GREAT! Thanks for the detailed instructions and I hope this helps someone else.
Just got my cable from Mike at Prosport delivered overnight! Looking forward to this DIY job in the evening.
My passenger interior door handle broke last week. Ive had this before on the passenger exterior door handle. I assume repair is the same as is posted here? Any other known difficulties or shortcuts? Seems like a lot of hours to rectify a silly problem.
I'm a bit confused and need some help. My drivers side door has started with this issue of not wanting to shut. I get a scary "thud" or "clonk" sound, but it won't shut. If I try again, it will shut. The exterior door latch works fine. In fact, I replaced this cable a few years back. So, is it possible that this cable simply needs adjusting? Or am I going to have to replace the latch mechanism as well? What I got from the original poster was that as soon as the exterior cable was correctly adjusted, that caused another problem to surface that required the replacement of the latch mechanism.
The loud clunk you refer to sounds to me like the door-lock is already in the latched (closed) position before it hit's the striker pin. When you say you try again and it will shut - have you done anything in the meantime other than literally try again? It seems to me that the normal problem is the cable from the exterior latch to the inner lock. Be aware that the outer latch can appear to be working fine but it might not be! That was the case with mine. I had no problem opening the door but because the cable was all filled with gunk and crud there wasn't enough pull from the lock end to retract the cable fully as a result of which the lock mechanism wasn't fully released and when I pushed the remote to lock the doors they would try and lock and then give up.
Your post gave me an epiphany. It has to be the inner cable (as you say) because this only happens when I open the door from the inside. I will adjust the cable, lubricate everything while I'm in there and see what happens. The only thing I need to figure out now is where the auto window jumper out of the way thingy is and how to adjust it. Thanks!!
When you are done with yours we can take my door apart. Intermittently, I can't open the door from outside. Window drops but the latch doesn't disengage. Dealer tells me that they adjusted the cable but still not working well.
It's all in the inside of the car. The pad on the elbow rest. Pull up on it from the pointy part on rearward most part. It shoudl just lift right up. Beneath this is the adjustment for the pull handle inisde the vehicle. There are some 6mm (I think) nuts that hold the cable tighter/looser. Just turn these loose. The internal microswitch is below the interior handle. To remove this just lift up the handle and loosen the phillips screw beneath the front part. You might have to loosen the cable first.. Takes like 2 minutes..
I had this two weeks ago with mine. Id lift and the door wouldn't open. Locks also wouldn't like it. When you get the door card off, the adjustment screw is up in the door. Two 6mm nuts adjust it. To tighten it you'll probably have to adjust the nuts so that they are right at the end of the threaded mount...
We may need to shim the cable (difficult to explain), horrid design. I've replaced both of my cables already. Throw in a beer and you're on!
I've had these doors apart (and others) probably a dozen times, but do not know how to actually adjust the microswitch. Any tips would be appreciated.
I have exactly this issue on mine, its driving me mad as the car now locks itself whenever it wants. Last time it did it with the keys in the ignition, I closed the door when I got out (habit) and the poxy thing locked itself. I cant use the remote fob at all to lock or unlock the car, the drivers door will only lock with the key and open with the key but the passenger door wont open with the key and the door stays locked. Is there an internal box of tricks that sends signals from one door to the next to allow them to unlock/lock in sequence? I was told that this may be the case. I know the cable on the drivers door is stretched and thats what caused all this but I am stumped as to why the fob wont do anything at all. Thanks
I have a similar problem. Mine don't lock up with the remote. It tries to lock but it unlock by itself. Now when I open my door from the outside it don't close the door and seems that the hatch don't lock but if I open the door from inside everything close ok. Very fustrating situation !!
Both my locks are off. I checked prices and saw that these Fiat/Lancia locks cost 250$ each! Perhaps i should go to a Fiat dealer...
My advice to everyone having door problems is to NOT buy a new door latch mechanism until you've replaced the door cable first as this is the culprit 99% of the time.
Bonjour, Un grand merci à Scott : Hier, j'ouvre la portière de ma Modena, constate une résistance anormale dans la poignée et ... n'arrive plus à la refermer. Vite, un coup d'oeil sur Ferrarichat, je découvre le post de Spiderscott et ses explications limpides. J'entreprends de les suivre pas à pas, et deux heures plus tard, tout est rentré dans l'ordre !!! J'ai eu deux difficultés : La première fut de retirer le câble de son support coté serrure. Il faut forcer délicatement avec un tournevis, mais on risque de casser l'embout en plastique blanc. La deuxième fut de remettre en place l'habillage intérieur de portière. Il faut appuyer assez fort de haut en bas pour faire glisser les trois pattes du haut sur la tôle de la portière, tout en poussant. Conclusion : Il vaut mieux être deux, l'un pour retenir la portière tandis que l'autre engage fermement la garniture, et ne pas hésiter à poser le bas de la portière en appui sur une petite caisse (24 cm) pour éviter de forcer sur les charnières. La photo montre que le câble est intact. En fait, c'est la gaine qui rouille. Il suffit de faire translater le câble dans sa gaine que l'on remplit de WD 40, et tout redevient normal. Coût de l'intervention 0 ($) Encore merci donc. Gildas Translation with my poor english : Many thanks to Spiderscott : Yesterday, I opened my Modena's door, feeled a little resistance, and failed to close the door. Immediately, I went on Ferrarichat, found the Spiderscott thread, and followed his instructions. 2 hours later, my door could be closed without any cost. Two difficulties : Firstly, I found that it was a little difficult to pull out the cable, lock side, there is a risk to destroy the white plastic thrust. (see pics) Secondly, It's impossible to replace the door card without the help of a friend, because we must lean firmly on the door. Best regards Gildas Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Well done Gildas, the job was not made any easier for you having to translate from English. You've posted some nice detailed photographs also. Best.
I have been searching using the code on the pic B792 but i see locks from Fiat that appears to be different that this on the photo. Will these work?