Hard start 87 328-need advice..

Greg,
Seeing the number of posts you have, I'm sure you might have read this in a previous thread... I have read on other threads about the floor mat getting caught up with the gas peddal causing the reving to take place while shifting.
Regarding the car not "firing" but having a strong crank - thinking it might be fuel related. (Fuel Filter / Pump). Second guess would be fuse/electrical. Rather than my guesses, I'm sure an SME will read and post soon.
Good Luck.

 

smelling any gas when it won't start?

 

(Assuming that you have spark during the no-start cranking period -- and that's the first thing that you should confirm/deny before worrying about the fuel system.)

Anything's possible, but it can also be the electrical control of the fuel pump (which has two different paths for cranking vs running). First thing to do on the fuel side is learn how to unplug the safety switch on the airflow metering device, turn the key "on", and listen for the fuel pump to run:

If the fuel pump doesn't run, you'd focus on the ...113 fuel pump relay and/or the fuel pump and/or the wiring (but your report that the engine runs well once running makes this result less probable)

If the fuel pump does run, and immediate cold starting is easier after doing that for 10~15 secs (i.e., when cold, unplug the safety switch, turn the key to Pos II "on", listen to the fuel pump run for 10~15 sec, turn key to Pos III start) = try a different ...101 relay in the "Fuel Injection delivery pump starting-relay" position (they sort of misnamed this relay -- it really should be called "relay to control the fuel pump relay during starter motor cranking vs engine running").

 

Re the sticky throttle its as likely to be the cable as anything else - in which case just replace it - its not too hard. ( I had the same thing and that's what it ended up being)

Check the mechanism at the throttle body & also the pedal first though. Not sure about the LHD cars but on the RHD cars you remove the throttle pedal via an access hatch underneath the car.

 

agree...from non expert...check cable first...fuel pump likely suspect.

 

Likely as something else, but this is why you measure/test things -- to deduce/find out what is wrong, before throwing $s at it. Right now, I'd say that you really don't yet know if it is a spark problem or a fuel problem.

 

Greg, I also can't here my fuel pump when position to 1 or 2 etc. It could be that sticky throttle causing the car to "flood" fuel everytime you try to start her, if it happens or when you smell fuel step the throttle all the way down and see what happens, 328's tends to flood easy, some disconnect the Cold start valve(blue plug)of the right side of the intake (top) in summer time to eliminate this problem.

When its cold or winter time my 328 start very easily/quick like instantly with the Cold start valve connected and works better disconnected in summertime.

also check your plug wires towards your spark plugs if they make proper contact and that they are clean for proper electrical spark, you can also check the distributors contacts.

let us know when you sort this, I'd like to know whats causing this problem

cheers
Johnny

 

Check the fuel pump wire at the fuse panel. It's connected to the gang plug, you may have to drop the fuse panel to pull the plug. In my case the spring connector on the end of the wire had been overheated at some time in the cars life and lost its temper, and expanded causing a loose connection. Easily seen by the brown burn mark on the plastic plug.

 

My relays were working, the wire I'm talking about is exiting the panel to the pump. After the fuse /relays.

 

It's a sign that they aren't the problem, but you won't be able to hear the fuel pump when the starter motor is cranking. That's why it's better to unplug the safety switch and turn the key "on" (because then you can audibly confirm/deny if the fuel pump is running):

If the fuel pump relay "clicks", but you don't hear the fuel pump run = bad fuel pump relay, or a bad connection between the relay and the fuel pump, or a bad fuel pump.

If the fuel pump relay "clicks", and you do hear the fuel pump run, but the engine will still not start when you go to Pos III = fuel pump operation probably not your problem.

Use the spark tester too

 

Sure, you can use that same spark tester on the coil wires going to the distributor caps -- but no spark does not necessarily mean the coils themselves are bad (in fact, since you've lost spark on both banks, it's unlikley IMO that the problem is downstream of the MicroPlex ECU)

To simultaneously lose spark on both banks, you most likely have a problem with the TDC flywheel sensor, the RPM flywheel sensor, or the MicroPlex ignition ECU. If you do a search on "TDC flywheel sensor" and/or "RPM flywheel sensor", you should get some prior threads descibing how to make an unplugged resistance measurement of both and a functional, plugged in, AC voltage measurement of both during starter cranking.

Here's a photo:
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I had the sticky throttle issue a few years ago. I took off the protector plate near the gas pedal and hit the linkage cable with PB Blaster a few times over a few days. I haven't had the problem since.