550 Engine Removal

Decided to start a new thread on engine removal since my other thread on cylinder head removal has expanded greatly in scope - damaged cylinder liner means engine out.

Once I have worked out all the steps, I plan to list them in their correct order, but for now I am down to the last few removal steps prior to the hoisting.

I assume I can separate the engine at the clutch bell housing, but can someone please confirm that this will work? i.e the engine comes out with flywheel and clutch attached and separates at the release bearing (rather than undoing the propshaft/torque tube later on).

No dis-assembly manual exists but Ricambi's exploded parts diagrams are very useful:

http://www.ricambiamerica.com/parts_catalogs.php?M=FE&P=&V=diag&I=324.

Thanks,
Ron

 

Taz,
Prior to purchase, I would be interested in seeing a sample page or two on engine removal, maybe you could PM me a few,
Thanks,
Ron

 

Dear all,

Almost there, stuck at last hurdle, all bell housing bolts are off and I have taken the weight off the engine a bit with the hoist and am trying to move engine horizontally forward.
Engine moves side to side, so it is free off all obstructions, I can move it about one inch forward so I am clear of all the housing studs but the central shaft seems reluctant to slide further forward. I can see the shaft inside the housing and it has definitely moved forward an inch.
I will try jack under back end of bell housing tomorrow, any other ideas? Special fork lever tools? Or did I miss something - I have left the clutch slave cylinder untouched, was that OK?
Thanks,
Ron

PS Taz, thanks for photos, funny enough I had just removed power steering tonight, since it is essential to get clearance to move engine forward horizontally. What does it say about freeing the central shaft? Also I am not clear on whether I need to detach the slave cylinder or not.

 

Big sigh of relief, the engine is out at last. The Maranello mob certainly did not make it easy, the 550 has very little clearance. I wonder how they get a "mid-engine" 599 engine out.

Here is a list of essential tips:
1. remove the starter motor earth strap and bolt where it attaches to rear cross member in engine bay, otherwise sump will catch on the bolt . This is where I got stuck before.
2. remove the air from the tires to lower the cross member so sump can clear (I bet the WSM does not say this !). Do not jack up front of car.
3. lift the back end of the bell housing with a jack as you lift the engine to keep the housing studs in line with the holes and to support weight of torque tube.
4. lift the engine with the rear end coming up a little more than the front, rearrange lifting straps so this occurs. Use tip 3 to keep the 2 halves of the housing parallel.

et voila, a one man job using a Big Red 2 ton hoist. No physical strength required but lots of "thinking outside the box" needed.
Thanks to Josh at ECS for help in discussing tip 3.

Regards,
Ron


PS Taz, I did not move the transaxle back, maybe it would have helped, is that what the WSM says?

 

Pete and co.,
Took some pictures today, will upload tomorrow.

I am trying to remove the lower half of the crankcase (aka sump) and I notice the oil pump chain links the crankshaft to the lower half of the crankcase. There is an inspection cover below the main timing gear assembly. I know you worked on this in your sorting thread (pages 9 and 10), can I remove this chain through the inspection cover?
Otherwise I have to remove the cogs like you did.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=334008&page=11

Studying your photos, I have Just realized the main cover gasket also joins the two halves, so I guess I have to remove the whole lot.
It never ends,
Ron

 

Photo 1: Big Red 2 Ton hoist (set at 1/2 ton boom extension) , engine out and Big Red 1 (my 550)

Photo 2: engine bay - everything removed, note jack under rear bell housing to support it and torque tube

Photo 3: engine minus cylinder heads

Photo 4: clutch housing splines - one bent - presumably shaft stuck on it a bit during removal. How to reshape? Note the yellow numbers - is this tightening sequence? Also, not shown, there are yellow balance alignment marks on the perimeter for clutch, starter ring and flywheel.

Regards,
Ron
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Pete,

You said
"If you remove the oil pump cover, so you can see the oil pump drive sprocket, you will note that there is a nut holding the sprocket on the oil pump shaft. If you remove all the nuts and bolts holding the timing cover on, and the bolt holding the oil pump sprocket on, you can remove the oil pump chain, pump sprocket, both gilmer drive gears, and the cover "en bloc", without having to get the gilmer gears out of the bearings that are in the timing cover. "

In my first quick attempt last night, I did remove all timing and oil pump cover nuts and bolts, and then finally the bolt holding the oil pump sprocket but the sprocket did not seem to want to come out with a simple hand pull, did you use a puller or lever? Also the chain is under some tension, did you loosen it first? Do you remember how, there are 2 bolts by the chain guide?

Even then, to separate the 2 crankcase halves will mean splitting the timing cover gasket in half. I am thinking I at least need to remove the 2 timing cogs using that 4-pronged 7/8" special tool you made and then inspect seals and bearings (hopefully will be OK).

The good news is the rear cog fence is on solid and no bearing play can be felt, so I hope I dont have the problems you found. I would like to check for "grease oozing" behind the timing cog as Dave Helms mentioned so best to remove the cogs me thinks.
Thanks,
Ron

 

FBB,
Yes, it is a bent finger (or spline). Everything slid out smoothly once I cleared the cross member. There was a final plop sound as the shaft cleared the fingers, maybe due to the slight tilt angle needed to clear the cross member. Th rear half of the housing was not moved back, I just kept it parallel to the front half by adjusting the jack under the rear half. The finger seems to be very springy steel so will need some persuasion to straighten.
I assume easy to do?
Regards,
Ron

PS "push the transaxle back" - could somebody outline the steps?