Took the 348 for a spin the other day to collect some mail, collected mail and tried to start engine and my battery is flat, It has caught me out a couple of times now so with my head mechanic GG we tested the battery and found it had dropped a cell and only had 165CCA. Here are some pics of when we removed and replaced it Car turns over better than ever now! When replacing you car battery always disconnect your (-) negative battery terminal clamp first and also it should be the last one connected to your new battery to aviod electrical spikes Same rules applies to jump starting flat batteries also Pic 1/Pic 2 : Old battery, vintage shows 04' Pic 3: Battery hold down clamp, you need a 13mm socket and a few extensions to get that undone Pic 4: I had to remove the battery box debris cover to get my old battery out, 2 bolts in hidden behind bumper bar and 2 bolts underneath, 10mm spanner to undo them. Pic 5: Battery support frame, left hand rear of engine bay. Pic 6: Old battery details Pic 7: Old and new battery comparison Pic 8: New battery details. Pic 9/Pic 10: New battery installed Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I'm starting to have hot start issues, or at least I think I am, the engine will crank over for much longer start than when cold. Before I wind up stranded and hearing the words "I told you so" in my ear from my wife, I thought I should take care of it. These posts are excellent! Very helpful as I have no mechanical ability what-so-ever. The only problem I'm running into is I have a 95 Spider with the battery in the front, does that mean I need to run a cable directly from the front of the car to the rear? Is there any way I can use an existing line, assuming there is one? Thanks
This thread shows how to fix a 348 that has a starter motor that isn't cranking the engine. There are other threads that will show you how to fix a 348 that has a working starter motor, but that have an engine that isn't catching/starting (typically a bad fuel pressure regulator).
I initially tried putting in a new battery & starter and checked the cables/connections(ok). However, the problem remained. It wasn't until I installed the WR1 Bosch Relay Kit ($27-Rock Auto.com) that the issue was resolved. It now starts up on the first turn-hot or cold. Great Kit-Thanks for your advice.
Here is the relay my came with, using a large contactor style mounted on a bracket below the right side coil pack. I made an ABS cover for it and moved it from next to the suspension coil! The unit has worked for over ten years that I've cared for the car. YMMV. Jeff Pintler 89 348tb, 86tr Image Unavailable, Please Login
Nice 1st post!! Glad to hear sorted it out mate. They are the big heavy duty relays you can buy Jeff. We use them underground for the starter motors on a lot of machines. It will last another 10yrs that thing!! VERY strong contacts in it.
This happened on my Testa yesterday. Intermittent starting issues and it finally gave up the ghost and I roll started it to get home. Last night I fitted a brand new starter solenoid and it appeared to work perfect. 8 - 10 starts no probs so off to bed I went. Today it started fine and I went to see a client. An hour with client, no crank, not even tripping the solenoid. Store guys loved pushing the Testa down the road!! TOnight I got home and tested everything. Getting 12.45v at strart trigger and 12.55v at main pos terminal. Changed starter motor with one from the other car and took it out for a drive. Came home with hot engine, starts 4 times then nothing. Tested trigger wire, only 6.5v now. Obviously an issue somewhere so I'm tipping it is at the back of the ignition switch. I wired in a relay and walla! started 20 times perfectly with a seriously heat soaked engine. Now to figure out where the voltage loss actually is>............
Did you meter the trigger line with the solenoid on the circuit because the solenoids when hot tend to draw more current which will cause the voltage to drop slightly on the white trigger wire and that's just enough of a voltage drop to prevent the solenoid from actuating. Therefore by adding the relay which is alot less sensitive to voltage drops cures the problem by switching a solid battery feed through it's contacts. I suspect the contacts on the ignition switch may also be a contributing factor as well.
Sorry for bumping an old thread. But i need to applaud Pap for his DIY attitude. Ive been having this intermittent starter problem for years. recently its gotten worse. its never gotten me stranded though. this is going to be my rainy day project when hurricane earl comes through new england on friday. will post results!
Can anyone answer this one, as it's one I need to do as well, i think. The PO replaced the FPRs so I'd like to try this one. Can you run the cable from the buss bar that has the 3 large hot wires going to it (where you jump/battery boost the car)? Thanks,
Hi Bruce, and everyone, Just reading your great thread and i have a Mondial 3.2 and also having a starting problem where it cranks and turns over very strongly but just wont start. Battery is new and i even replaced the fuel pump relay. Sometimes it happens when cold but more so when hot. I have read above about the Bosch WR-1 relay kit, is this what i need or is it the fuel pressure regulator? Or neither? I have also noticed that the wire on the block connector at my fusebox for the fuel pump has melted the plastic block connector. See photo. Bruce, could you please tell me how you did this on the Mondial 3.2 you mentioned. I would like to get it done if it helps my situation. Many thanks. Peter Image Unavailable, Please Login
I just received my WR1 relay and it seems as though the schematic slightly varies from the one posted in earlier in the thread. I can't say I know enough about that relay schematics to confirm the 87-87 bridge is the same. Anyone have input? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The relay is fine. The previous one has 87a which was an unnecessary normally closed contact (not used) for this application. With two 87-s, you can connect the wire that goes to the starter solenoid to any of these pins as they both go to the same relay contact inside.
Looking through this and the master sticky threads I noticed two different wiring diagrams. One has the relay terminal 85 to ignition switch and 86 to ground, the other post shows 86 to ignition switch and 85 to ground. Which is correct or does it matter?
Although 85 and 86 are just the contacts for the coil, there may be other things tied into the circuit. I noticed relay "e" in the F348 wiring diagrams is shown with the ground on different pins (or is this the relay we are talking about?)
In the case of universal relays, it does not matter whether + is on 85 or 86. The polarity is only important in the cases of relays which have an in-built blocking diode between 85 and 86. For such relays, + must be on 86. Relays with a blocking diode (shown on the diagram on the relay housing) are used in applications where the relay coil flyback voltage (the voltage spike that relay coil produces on deactivation) of some 300-400 V needs to be "killed" to prevent damage to the car electronics (like the ECU-s). The 348 has only two relays with blocking diodes - the black and yellow ABS relays. However, these two relays are not relays with just blocking diodes but also have additional "direction" diodes so they must be replaced only with the genuine Ferrari relays. Other 348 relays (which do not have blocking diodes) are wired with some relays with + on 86 and some with + on 85. However, the actual polarity of 85 and 86 does not mach the polarities shown on the wiring diagrams (great). As I decided to replace all non-blocked relays in my 348 with relays with a blocking diode (also saves the relay contacts as it "eats" the spark on disconnection caused by the flyback voltage), I had to determine the exact polarity of the 85-s and the 86-s. On my UK specs 348, the relay polarities are as shown on the pics (the panel in the footwell is upside down on RHD models). Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Correction: there is one relay on the boot panel which originally has a blocking diode (the shiny Bosch). Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks, Miroljub. Definitely one for the archives. That makes quite a few of the WSM diagram relays wrong... . I'll amend my colour diagrams for the lights, windows and mirrors. e.g. F348 Lights Cheers Ian
I have to make another correction to the diagram of the footwell relay panel. The Fog Lamp relays, as I recently discovered, also have +12V on pins 85. As I mentioned before, the diagrams I posted are for my 1991 UK specs non-cat 348. Image Unavailable, Please Login
