Alternator Tensioner Bearing Failed! Help!!!

My 95 355 alternator tensioner bearing just failed. The bearing disintegrated and the tensioner moved completely off the alternator belt. I have a few questions:

1. Can I just replace the tensioner bearing? (it is listed seperately on Ricambi's site)
2. How is the tensioner removed from the pully, does it just unbolt from the pulley? Can it be done from under the car with the fiberglass panel removed?
3. While I am replacing the bearing, how do I replace the alternator belt? Can it be done from underneath the car?

I have attached pics, hopefully someone can help me to get her back on the road.

Thanks!

Michael
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Don't panic.

You can replace the bearing, and yes you can remove it from the bottom. Since the belt is already off the tentioner you won't have to fool with the tension bolt. So.....remove the 3 nuts holding the tensioner bracket to the block and remove the tensioner/bracket. Then remove the bearing retaining bolt and remove the bearing from the bracket.

 

removing the three bolts won't help. You gotta remove the bolt on front of the bearing, move the adjustter bolt back toward the block, and then the bearing can be removed from it's bolt. Just enough room.

 

Good looking out Bruce. Thanks for the clarification.

 

I am still a bit confused. I have attached the schematic from Ricambi, based on that, can I just remove Nut #13 and remove the bearing (what's left of it) and tensioner? No one has addressed the alternator belt removal question I had. How do I replace it?

Thanks!
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Remove the entire tensioner assembly then remove the retaining nut on the front. The bearing is retained on the pully by a snap ring.
Judging by the pictures with oil and collant leaks you have some much more pressing needs then just the tensioner bearing.

 

Bruce, is this the bearing we changed few days ago? Sounds like I dodged a bullet

 

That's it....you did!

 

One has to be a little mech. enclined to do this job. Just a question....when was your last engine out service?

 

Alt belt can be replaced at the same time, no problem

 

Hi Gerry,

I am looking for help so I don't have to pay someone $150/hr to do this if I can do it. I have tools, jacks, stands, and the desire to fix this right. I have read several posts and it seems like there is no consensus as far as the way to remove and replace this tensioner bearing.

My last major was in 2007. Car is over-due for a major. My wife and I bought a new home, had a baby and the car is lucky to get driven a mile to Starbucks 3 times a week. Reality is what it is, my beloved 355 is not getting all of the attention she deserves, but that is life.

Back to the subject, if you have any information you would like to share to help me complete this repair I would be most appreciative. Thank you.

 

Thanks Bruce, can you give me some detailed instructions to remove the belt? Or direct me to a post detailing this? Thank you.

 

Bruce changed out my bearing this past monday. No longer squeaking or noises from this area. Pm him as his shop is in hermosa beach. Part number for my 95 spider 123350 from ricambi

 

You are it.

You get to post up a how-to, with pics, for the boys. Really, it isn't that hard of a job. Get the car in the air and get to it. "YOU CAN DO IT!"

 

You can do it the way Bruce said or the way I did it. You have to get the car up in the air enough so you can work comfortably. First unlock the big center bolt and then turn the bottom bolt to slacken off the tension on the belt. I doubled up on the nuts(there are 3 of them holding the whole bracket on) locked a new one to the existing one and then extracted the whole studs. (later to be replaced with bolts so as to make this whole thing easier next time). Once its off, you use the right size socket to punch out the old bearing. Then you press in the new one. The trick now is to get your new belt up over the water pump pulley between the firewall and the water pump or down from the top. I taped the belt to a thin flat stick similar to the old yard sticks and pushed it up. Once the belt is on all the pullies, repalace the tensioner and take up the slack with the bottom bolt and then lock with the side bolt.
To give myself more room, I moved the alternator over before I started. The other thing I wanted to say is that this bearing makes a deep howling noise for years before it gets to the stage yours was at. You have to train your ears to listen to the sound these great machines make and when something sounds different then check it out befrore its too late.


http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/348-355/344710-f355-alternator-belt-tensioner.html

 

So after loosening the tensioner bolt and removing the nut in front of the bearing. I am stuck. The bearing casing is stuck on the shaft of the pulley. I have tried applying heat (with a torch) and that seems to have loosened it up, but it still won't slide off the shaft, even with force. I am wondering if I am not seeing the retaining clip that is supposed to be in front of the bearing? There does not appear to be one on it, but I can't think of anything else that would be keeping it from sliding off. Any ideas of how I can remove the bearing without taking the pulley apart?
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Take the 3 studs out and you will have it all in hand. BTW, cut the old belt off to get it out of the way.

 

Thanks Gerry, your help is greatly appreciated. Question, so if I double nut the 3 studs they will unscrew from the pulley?

 

Yes they will unscrew from the block. You double nut them snuggly and then put your wrench on the inner one and you will get them out. I believe the top one is hard to get at and you may need to move the alternator to get at it. Get yourself 3 new metric bolts and grind them down to the same usable length as what was inserted with the stud you remove and then you can put them in instead. You have to grind or cut them down because the length is inbetween 2 sizes. They are 13mm by about 1.5 inches long. You will have to shorten them by comparing how much is used on the studs. You will be shortening them about a 1/4". Make sure the bolts you buy are the harder ones. You will also need 3 washers.
When you get the tensioner off, make sure the bolt that runs up inside has not been bent. Many have bent them by over torqueing them.

 

ATA BOY DEEJAY!

Way to get after it.

 

I got may hands dirty helping Michael with this project yesterday. With all of the guidance from everyone here, we'll make it happen. We're (now) just two SoCal Stooges, right Ernie?

 

I wish I could be down there in that warm weather. I could sit in a chair and keep an eye on the beer for you.

 

That's right. Two Stooges gettinerdun.

 

Yes, thank you very much Henry. I really appreciate your assistance, you are a good man. We will fix and document this for others who find themselves here in the future.

 

Hi Gerry,

Do the 3 studs unscrew counter-clockwise from the block? Thanks.