Please diagnose my clutch problem

If the SD2 is correct and it has 90% left I would NOT "burn it out". Why would you do that? Instead I would take it to someone who can diagnose and fix it. You would have to do that eventually anyway, unless you are certain that it is the clutch itself that is the problem.
Jes

 

i can't help you but can honestly say that there's no way i would put up with my ferrair behaving in that manner. you have to do yourself and the car a favor and get it properly fixed by someone who knows their 360's. i could be a sign of bigger things to come so i would not wait until the clutch is gone. Best of luck and look fwd to reading about the solution!

 

It's an '02 car with adjustable PIS so software will be fine. Formula dynamics thing won't improve it. If the car had a clutch but the flywheel is worn you get exactly this problem. This is the standard thing you see when people throw a clutch in it to sell it. As the clutch gets hotter. It slips more. This induces more heat still which makes it slip even further, which is why it feels better cold. PIS adjustment in such a situation will do nothing but make the car undrivable. I would also doubt 90% is left on the clutch. If its been driven even a short distance on a bad flywheel face it's likely that only about 1/3 of the clutch is at 90%. The rest will be shot. Check invoices; if there is no evidence of a clutch reface or replacement my money would be on this.....

 

+1 Based on what you've stated here, it seems your mechanic is nowhere near up to the task.

 

+2. Take it somewhere else.

Rifledriver made an interesting comment on one of the other threads about removing the bottom plate and visually inspecting the clutch. It's probably as good as hooking it up to an SD or leonardo machine.. of course.. he has ALOT of experience with these cars.

I'd almost wonder if its a pressure issue with the actuation mechanism.
1) Inspect the pump, actuators and lines. Any leaks?
2) What's the resistance of the pump (weak output = low pressure)
3) Sticking actuators?
4) Bleed system. Improper bleed in the past with air in the system causing these issues.

I haven't seen your car and I'd HOPE your mechanic addressed all these things above before you posted here..

 

I'd have thought that any of the above would prevent gear selections.

A slipping clutch is more related to PIS, a clutch with no meat left or a clutch face with contamination.

 

Not pressure, pump, actuator.... FLYWHEEL....someone did a cheap-ass clutch job...

 

Unfortunately, nobody will be able to tell you 100% what the cause is. My money's on the flywheel, but unless you can post most of the 11 pages of the SD2 parameters report it is difficult to substantiate. I fear your technician is right, removal of the transmission to inspect all the clutch components is required.

 

rustybits is giving you some good information.

I will add this. None of us has a crystal ball, no one on the internet can fix your car for you and continuing to drive it will not make it better or less expensive to fix.


You have been told by more than one person to take the car to someone who knows what they are doing to have it fixed. There is no better or more complete advice to give you.

 

Is your car a 3 pedal car or F1?

 

OMG

Edit: It would be an F1

 

Fuel smells = smell on top of engie compartment trim panel. Whichever side is fuel smelliest, remove that side and have them check the roll over valves or the fuel pump for leakage. There is a depression in the plastic on the pumps that will collect fluid. CEL light on means the fuel system is depressurizing leading to the light. Should be a relatively straightforward repair... Clutch issue still not sure why have the creep forward..

 

Ideally you would find another 360 owner and meet up and drive each other's cars. Hopefully there is a difference. Then approach the dealer with both. Take the person out for a nice dinner.