Engine studs; how to get them out

I need to get the studs out of my 308 block but so far with no succes.
1got out when welding a nut on the thread (and with brute force)
3 others snatched!!

Please help!

 

The very best way that I have found is to use a Snap On collet with the right thread size insert. THen, you heat the block where the stud goes in for about 5 minutes with a MAPP gas torch. Turn the collet and it will ease out.

The fact that the studs have snapped broken means that the steel stud has fused into the aluminum block. You need heat,

 

If you have to heat the heck out of the block to remove studs, after replacing the stud make sure you torque the head on with an old head gasket to make sure the threads don't pull out of the block. I've got a slick setup for helicoiling the threads in the block so it's not the end of the world even though it might feel like it .

 

If the studs snapped off close to the surface of the block, or inside it, isn't the only alternative to drill them out? If they are that snug, I would doubt that one of those reverse drills would do any good, even if you heat the heck out of the block. Drilling them out should not be an issue, if Lucky will share the info on how to helicoil the studs properly.

 

If the studs are stuck grabbing them at the top will just compound the problems. It will twist like a barber pole over its length and break at the base where it tapers up to 14mm. Besides, Snap On does not make a 11x 1 collet and a 7/16 roller type just smashes the threads and will break internally long before a stuck head stud comes out.

It is best to warm the entire block in an oven to 250 or more. Machine shops have ovens built for this. Then grab the stud at its base, near the deck with a good stud removal tool and try twisting it out. If that does not work it needs to be drilled out. That is best done on a milling machine because it needs to be perfectly centered and straight. It is only drilled until hollow and the walls are thin. At that point it can be twisted out with an easy out. My machine shop has removed studs from very old V12s whose studs were really now part of the block and never needed to helicoil a thread..

I do have some ARP V8 head studs in stock if needed.

 

Rifledriver , how many times have you written that ? The best advice you can get .
I broke off studs in my original drysump block , due to brute force and ignorance . Subsequently with patience and care I have removed some of them by drilling .
I have wondered about helicoiling the threads ? Luckydynes post a pic of your setup . Great to see how others do it .

 

It was an old hot rod trick to drill the bolt hollow, hold a nut of top of it, and then fill it up with a weld, fusing the nut to the top...

Often the heat of the whole process would leave the broken stud finger tight afterwards.

Just a story, I was not there.

 

The OP did not say that it is a head stud ..., but a good assumption I guess.

I could have sworn 10 years ago I used a 11mm collet on the GT4 block, but it could have been 7/16. In any case, the threads were good after that so I thought it was 11mm.

If you end up drilling it, I would recommend letting a machine shop with a mill try that one.

 

So I guess trying to do it with my 30 year old Black & Decker hand drill is not a good idea. LOL

 

I was guilty of assuming he was speaking of head studs. But I'll blame it on Sean. In post 3 he got to talking about heads.

If the studs are not really stuck a collet type will work but when he is having trouble like he described I think it is past using one.


Also those Snap On collet type tools have lost some popularity so they are probably not offering as many adaptors as they once did.

 

I have done the nut on top of the broken stud trick dozens of time, works 98% of the time. I don't bother drilling them first, just quick cleanup with grinding disc (where possible) and weld.

Won't work if the stud isn't broken though.

 

Doesn't work on really stuck head studs either.


We gave up on that approach twenty years ago.

 

That is interesting. What is the better tool for stud remover now? I work on Porsche 911 too and that Snap On collet is the one to own. That and the 10mm stud installer (which they no longer make because of patent infringement)

 

They still make them but less variety in collets. The stud installers were really good too.


Some Japanese company makes the installers now.

 

I have a 11mm x 1mm Snap On stud remover. It is special order and in their catalog..
I can loan it out, I dont need it for a while. Also, I have many extra Ferrari 308 Head Studs and Main Studs... Cheap.
PM me.


Edwardo

 

Great but it is still the wrong tool for the job.

 

And I have an early 308 bare block (with studs still in it) if anyone needs one.