I know in that old post Brian thought this was not a good idea but not sure why. I can't comment it would not scare me to bleed it this way if the actuator was not hooked up but with it hooked up to the transmission maybe it could damage its self or linkages or shift forks? Like I said I am not sure so no comment,. I finished reading the WSM and I can not find anywhere where it says how to bleed clutch or hydraulics without the computer. I guess you need to evaluate the risk. I do know when I did my engine out service I accidently removed the clutch quick coupler and was worried I go some air in the system. I put everything back together and tried it with engine off and it seemed fine and it has worked for a few drives. I will however take it to ferrari to get the whole system bled as soon as I can. I think the only charge a few hundred bucks. Also contrary to what others say about the f1 my system has worked incredibly smooth and flawlessly since new so I do not really want to fix what I do not understand completely. Ps your welcome
Thanks again Grant Do you have the 360 pump update? If your running the stock pump motor i will send you my org motor so you can have a spare Free of charge.Just let me fix my problem first before i send it,thats if you want a spare. Michael
Yes I am I hoping it lasts for another 20 years. Like you said let's get yours fixed first. Have you searched inclub scuderia they got some pretty good guys there.
I did read about someone telling me to hook a pump Aquarian type to the clutch and push fluid through it but I could not get it to work. I think their logic was that if the valve was open you could in essence circulate fluid through the system with out building hydraulic pressure and force the air out.
Just to be clear my WSM has nothing in it on how to bleed the hydraulic for either the transmission actuator or the clutch. IS THIS CORRECT OR DID I MISS SOMETHING?
HI guys Just a little update I'm getting some where now I have bleed the system and set the pis and io .manual way hot and cold. I do get first gear now.When i hit second it goes to N. Thanks to the help of a guy named Tom..I hear the actuator try to engage second so Tom tells me now that i have to bleed the actuator and i think he has hit the nail on head. I'm just waiting for his reply on how to do that.Then i will post in full detail. Thanks again Tom.
Grant I will post in detail i just want to make sure i get it all right before i do.I think i might still have some air in the actuator side.
I do have some good news the dealer will take my car on tuesday and set it up on the sd2/ machine but its going to cost about $ 500.00 plus $ 100.00 tow.I will give a report on the 360 pump update. Just want to say thanks to everybody for the help.
I have a question: When I replace my clutch on my F1 am I going to need and take the car to the dealer for bleeding and calibration?
If your just doing the clutch and bearing then i don't think you would have to take it to the dealer.If you just doing disc and pressure plate do not undo cupler and i'm sure then that you will not have to take it do the dealer because you didn't open up the F1 system.If you are doing the bearing also Just remember when you do, to undo the quick fit cupler first so the no air can go back up into the system.Then when your done the clutch turn on the key and open bleeder by the bell housing and hit your up shift paddle and close bleeder.make sure you top up your atf fluid.I was able to bleed the clutch side because i do get first gear,remember i updated to a 360 pump and had to undo all my lines and could not bleed out the air on the actuator side.So my thought is you can bleed the clutch side with out an sd/2 machine but you can't bleed the actuator side.So if your just doing your clutch i think you would be o/k.
You will need to take the car in and have the clutch % reset to "new". The % wear number is nice to have so we know where we are with the clutch usage. However, that number is really used to tell the computer where the clutch engagement point is to avoid slipping. The process should take less than 30 minutes and that includes a full system recalibration and the aforementioned bleeding process while you are there Heck, I have all the access panels off and the pigtails out before I even show up.
Your right it should only take 30min or 1 hr max.But the dealer told me that they charge two or three hrs and you know it's going to be three. 3hrs x $ 150.00 plus tax. I have no choice.
Didn't do it yet. Mine was at 48%. So I left it alone. I thought I needed a new clutch but it turned out to be the TO bearing postilion sensor so I swapped that and was good. Did all the research on the clutch swap though. I have had the clutch reset, gears calibrated and the system bled three times as I chased gremlins out of the system the previous mechanic left for me to find ....turned out to be electrical connectors. My independent shop actually has an SD2 and an SD3. They are simply fantastic to work with. I'll ask what they think about a DIY clutch and drive afterwards prior to reset... It will have to wait until I get my car out their storage area. That is if it ever stops snowing and warms up.
Hi Guys I got some great news put my bumper and wheels on let the car down started it and guess what,I 've got all my gears ..Took it for a drive and it works great.Why i dont know maybe after a few days the air worked its way out. So is the 360 pump update worth it? I would say that yes it primes in one flash but i didn't notice a big change in the shifts they are a bit harder and my clutch seems to engage quicker.I did set up the pis and io settings the manual way.It is a very easy install and it takes about a day 8hrs not the 20hrs like some people have been told.The kit is not complete there is a fitting that you will need that bolts to the pump motor its like $300.00 dont buy that fitting i just went to a parts store and matched one up $15.00 bucks. Thanks again to everybody for your help.
This is fantastic news! Are you going to do a write-up on the pump swap? This would be so helpful for the rest of us.
I just followed the right up how to install a 360 pump update on Ricambi's web page. Just remember that you have to reverse the power wires on the pump it does not say that in the write up.I also made my hoses abit longer which now has allowed me to have 1.5 litre's of atf fluid in my f1 system which i believe will help with heat soak.
I forgot to post how i was able to bleed the f1 system with out sd2 Undo bleeder screw the one on the bell housing turn on your key hold your upshift paddle for 5 sec then stop do this 5 times.Then i ran i clear hose from the bottom bell housing bleeder up into the resevoir fill the hose with atf fluid so its full.Then i started the car and opened bottom bleeder,then hold your up shift paddle for 5 sec then stop and wait about 15 sec to bluid up pressure again repeat this 5 times then close your bleeder screw. That should do it.
