Hi All, I have just bought a 348 1991 from a Ferrari specialist dealer and both engine management lights are on. They have checked it and said that it is showing lambda sensor faults, they have replaced the lambda sensors with new units but the lights have stayed on. A Ferrari specialist confirmed that there is no problem with the car and is running fine, as the emissions are at 240 which is an MOT Pass. The car drives and runs fine. The dealer has promised to collect the car and investigate further but claims it must be a faulty connection somewhere. The problem is the dealer is over 150 miles from me and I don't really want someone I don't know to come and collect it and drive it 300 miles and also to add to the mileage. Does anyone have any advice on where I could try checking first, the fault is still saying Lambda Sensors? Are there any particular points/connectors that I could look at to try and solve this myself first? Thanks in advance Tim
When they say "come collect it" wouldn't they send a trailer to pick it up? Somehow I don't tsee then driving it back to their dealership then driving it back to you. You should call them to clarify this.
I'm presuming by Lamda.sensors they mean the oxygen sensors? They plug into the wiring harness on top of the transmision. You'll have to remove the air cleaner to get there. There are 4 plugs in a row. I would unplug them and try to clean the contact pins of those plugs, the reassemble. If that doesn't work, I would replace the O2 sensors yourself....they're pretty cheap. If that doesn't work it's probably time for a "gold kit"
I'm having a similar issue. Codes are showing the O2 sensors. I have 2 of them on order and should have them replaced shortly. Had no issues pre-major but after the major the CEL's came on 2 days later. They had cleaned the contacts during the major. Car runs fine other than those lights. I'm fingers crossed the new O2's fix the issue. If not, I'm not sure of my next step.
Lambda means the regulation of the air/fuel ratio. When you get a Lambda code it could be a few things, depending on the code. Lambda issues can be a result of different problems, but here are some things to check: Bad O2 sensors, also know as the Lambda sensor. You already have new ones in, so we can rule that out. This thread shows how to replace them if you decide to do it yourself in the future. http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/technical-q/253394-348-o2-sensor-removal.html Bad coolant temperature sensor/s. The Motronic ecu needs to know the coolant temperature so it can adjust the fuel mapping. This thread as the do-it-yourself instructions. http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/348-355/229830-replacing-coolant-temp-sensors.html Bad thermostat. If the thermostat isn't working properly the car can run too cool, causing the fuel mapping to be too rich. After the car as been fully warmed up, the running temperature should remain over 180°F. This thread has more info, and do it yourself instructions. http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/technical-q/385608-348-thermostat-removal.html Mass Airflow Sensor out of adjustment. If the resistance on the MAF is too low it can cause the engine to run richer. And if it is too high it will lean out the mixture. The resistance should be set to 383 ohms. This thread show you how to adjust the resistance. http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/technical-q/20378-mass-air-flow-sensor-adjustment.html Bad secondary air injection valve. If this goes bad it can cause a lean condition in the exhaust flow. This link is a very good resource for us 348 owners My Ferrari 348 And finally, welcome to the 348 Brotherhood.
Is it possible that the codes simpy haven't been properly cleared from the memory of the Motronic units? You might have old, stored codes rather than new codes.
Wow, what a great forum. Thanks for your help, great reply ernie! I have long dreamed of owning one of these cars. I have had lots of good cars, but none of them a Ferrari, I have always prefered the looks of the 348 to the 355 and indeed the more modern 360. It is the best shape of them all in my opinion! And now I have picked it up I love it even more. The garage was going to leave me with a car (maybe the one they drove down in but it might be on a transporter, I will check if I cant find the problem) I just hope its the Bugatti Veyron they had in the showroom! I will first check the things that you recommend ernie. It will help get to know the car a bit better. On another note - my petrol gauge dosen't seem to work unless I'm accelerating! Its like its vacuum assisted!?? Any ideas. It sits showing empty most of the time and sometimes flickers about a bit BUT is fine and steady when I put my right foot down?
If both became illuminated at the same time it's most likely a bad electrical connection. I think the dealership is correct. Mine both came on at the same time a few years back after a small bump over a set of railroad tracks and it turned out to be a bad connection on the passenger side ecu harness behind the seat. Good luck. Edit: turn the ignition to the on position, pop the ecu covers behind the seats and give the connectors a wiggle while looking at the lights - if they flicker you know your in the right spot...
Update on mine. Just got 2 of these in the mail today. Walker 250-24040 Four Wire Oxygen Sensor : Amazon.com : Automotive Installed them with the help of one of these bad boys (actually forgot I had it). Turned the battery connect off for 10 mins while I tightened everything back up and Voila! no CEL's. I shoulda put on my patent leather Italian loafers I did it so fast... Now's lets hope it sticks! Image Unavailable, Please Login
Correcting the fault (whatever the code) does not remove the code from the memory in the Motronic's self-diagnosis system. You have to erase the code from the memory, which is easily done with the procedure described in the workshop manual. If the light then stays out, you're in fat city. If the light continues to come on, then something needs to be corrected. Troy's post suggests that if the lights come on for each bank at the same time, then it might be a bad connection. I don't know about that. Since each light is triggered by its own Motronic unit, it seems unlikely that two bad connections (one per bank) would happen at the same time. If each Motronic unit is telling you that it has a stored code for a fault in the Lambda sensor, then it makes sense that the lights would come on at the same time, or nearly the same time, depending on how many other codes are stored in each bank. Before doing anything else, I would recommend that you simply pull the codes, note them, and erase them. Doesn't cost anything, doesn't require any special tools or skills.
Thanks again all, Do UK RHD cars have the CEL lights as Mine didnt have any in until I asked the dealership to put bulbs in. I read that European cars didnt somewhere and also on my348.com they refer to the cel light procedure not being suitable for European models??? Any Ideas? Miltonian, Anyone- How do I pull the codes? Anyone know, also what is the procedure to clear the codes as mentioned? Thanks PS Any ideas on why my petrol gauge only works under acceleration would be great? PPS Gearbox- Is a stiff 2nd gear and the odd crunch normal when cold
Did you do any background reading at all !!! This is probably the most legendary Ferrari quirk for all models over the years Many many threads here suggest it can be improved by a different oil others just go to third til its warm PS where in the UK are you ?
Yes I did and I did read that the one on test in EVO was like this, I just wanted reassurance Greyboxer! lol. I did a little research before buying and in general liked what I read. I am in Norfolk, where are you? Anyone local to me?
I didn't understand that one either. The best I could come up with is perhaps there is a ground crossover upon electrical fault...
There are many step by step procedures one this board for this. It would be really valuable for you to find out why the bulbs were removed in the first place.
Well I would suggest it would have been because of this O2 fault. The O2 sensors have been replaced by the dealer and emissions are NOT high and still they light. The car drives fine so I guess the owner had enough of the lights being on. Anyway, I will have a go at cleaning the connectors suggested and if no luck I will return to dealer and let them sort. Do you know what tool I need to buy to read the codes from the ecu so I can confirm what the Garage have told me? Can I try resetting the codes by disconnecting the battery, the garage also mentioned running car for 18 mins or something, anyone know how to perform an ECU reset? Thanks for all your your help.