Would you start with a CRX?

Why not?
I know a guy that races Gen 1 CRXs with his son, has an absolute ball.
If my '86 CRX wasn't in sure good, original condition I'd probably make an Auto-X beast with it.

Tear out the interior, put in a cage and race seat (and probably a few other things) and hit the track!

 

I've seen some CRXs that have been fully track prepped and they looks like a TON of fun. I say go for it. Rip out the interior, add some harnesses, up the brakes, get some sticky rubber and head to the track.

 

CRX would be perfect - I'm sure there are plenty of sites that can provide guidance.

Depending on what you are running - I remember something akin to a "build sheet" by make / model, gave guidance on what was needed to be competitive.

 

The only thing I don't like about the CRX is fwd. I would (and did) use a Porsche 944, they're dirt cheap and not overly expensive to repair and a ton of fun, very nice handling cars.

That said, a bird in the hand is worth 2 in the bush...

 

Go for it! Sounds like good clean cheap fun, and if you're just starting out, you don't want to mod it too much until you gain the experience and seat feel and skill to notice your upgrades. That will take many track sessions with instruction.

One exception... Budget for tires from the start. I recommend direzza star specs for a starting out track tire that's DOT approved that will last for many many sessions. Your normal street tires won't last very long. You should have room in a CRX to bring track tires with you, but while you have it on jackstands, test that guess.

 

Reminds me of this picture. Do it and have fun without worrying about tearing up a pricey car.

 

CRX is a great choice. Focus your initial mods on safety. Roll bar, harness, Helmet, Hans Device. Make sure all the important systems are functioning properly, brakes, steering, suspension. Then you are good to go. It will be plenty fast enough until you get more experience.

 

Quick story: When I was first thinking about about getting into racing, I asked a guy with a Spec Miata how he liked his car. He said, "I hate it. But why would anybody race a car they liked and wanted to keep? Racing is all about doing your best to destroy your car without actually destroying it."

Dale

 

Here are some of the important things:

1. Full NASCAR type cage - check.
2. Six-point, not five-point, belts - check.
3. Check the anchoring points for the belts - check.
4. Hans Device, and knowing how to use it - check.
5. Practice on getting out of the car - check and double check.

Enjoy!

Dale

 

Most of the time I agree with Dale. But I do not agree with this at all. Club Racing is all about having competitive fun because most of us have a real job that affords our racing. Racing is managing your equipment so that you can be put into a position to win and then still have a chassis that can win next week. You might destroy disposibles but you protect the car. My racecar gets lots of love and in return I always finish races.

 

My only comment about the CRX choice is that racing is a slippery slope. All of a sudden you have thousands of dollars invested in your car. If you like the sport it is not going to stop at a helmet and 6 pt harness and a harness bar. There is car creep. You will want more. A good cage is $4000 whether it's a BMW or a CRX. 2 sets of dry tires and 1 set of wets is 1000/set of tires and sometimes 2000+ a set of wheels. Adjustable shocks are $3-5000 regardless of CRX or BMW. You have to be OK with a CRX that has $20k invested in it. Then you need to be OK with hitting a wall and starting all over again. So...having a lot of available donor cars makes for easy part swaps to save on some of that investment. Also, if you pick something popular like a miata you can sell all the stuff. You race a Ferrari and you mostly own all the stuff you bought for it. Trackdays are a lot less of an investment but can be more. Trackdays have no rules and you can build expensive motors and crazy aero that can cost more than being competitive in a race class.

 

$4000 for a cage?! I'm not doubting that you CAN spend that much but there's gotta be a way to get a quality, 6pt welded in cage for less than that no? I'd definitely look around for someone parting out a racer, or shop around several race shops at the very least.

My racer buddy Bob is running stock brakes but lighter rims that allow more cooling air than the stock phone-dials. One (of many) great things about such a light car is that the brakes don't have to do much work! Tires also last much longer than the big boys'.

Here's one of Bob's CRXs. He's owned it since new, shortly after rolling off the dealer's lot it had a cage and was hitting the track.
He also has a couple Gen IIs have to look for pics.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Original poster asked about a track day car, not a race car. There is a difference, no?

 

You have never bounced off your rev limiter in a short corner?

This. I know a number of hard core racers who will not do track days anymore. The variability of drivers and equipment is just too wide.

$4,000 for a cage could be the cheapest money you have ever spent.

Not in my book. You know, like the song says, "It gotta be rock 'n' roll music.." To me, the check list below is my minimum before heading out.

Here's a suggestion. Check out a racing school because (1) you'll learn good habits, instead of bad ones, (2) you use someone else's car, and (3) bang for the buck, a racing school is the best way to dive in, even if you don't plan on racing.

Moreover, you'll probably discover one of two things: (1) you're better than you think you are, or (2) some people just can't handle the G forces. Evolution did not prepare us for racing cars (or flying fighter jets). But it is better to find out early than late.

Good luck. Dale

 

Sure cages are great to have for those "uh-oh" moments but they don't cost anywhere near $4k for a CRX.

Here's a 6-pt, NASA and SCCA legal bolt in cage for <$1100
83940 Autopower Bolt-In Roll Cage for 88-91 Honda Crx at Andy's Auto Sport

If you want a welded in set-up it's still well under $2k, plus a couple hundred to get someone to weld it in for you
$627 for 4-pt
60940 Autopower Race Roll Bar for 88-91 Honda Crx at Andy's Auto Sport

Add full roof, A-Pillar and full side bars for $900
60940C Autopower U-Weld Roll Cage for 88-91 Honda Crx at Andy's Auto Sport

Do your own research, YMMV etcetctec

 

Please take this advice from someone who has been there and done that more times than he cares to remember. DO NOT BUILD YOUR OWN CAR!!!!!!!!!

Now this may sound harsh but please allow me to explain. Building a race car consumes cubic amounts of time and money and the result rivals the greatest depreciation you will ever see. The fact that you have a car to start with is so miniscule in the equation that it would make your head spin. Some back of the napkin calculations:

Car: Free
Cage: $2K
Seat, belts, net, fire botte, misc safety equipment: $2K
Suspension: $2K
2 sets of race wheels: $1K
Brakes and misc race prep: $1K

Total: $8K

These numbers are embarrassingly low and the reality is that when you get in it you will spend much more everywhere. Then factor in your time which even if it is free is being taken away from going to the track and having fun. Also no new race car is without long drawn out figuring out that consumes more money and often very valuable time at the track.

So where are we. We spent at least $8K, lots of time and blood, to end up with a car that the moment before it turns a wheel is not worth more than $5K on the best day. This car now needs sorting and this is going to be done by someone with no experience.

On the other hand you can buy lots and lots of race cars for $5K for basic club racing. Even the best one will give you tons of time to tinker and fettle. Most will come with heaps of spares including wheels and maybe a little trailer to boot. You can go straight to the track and have fun which is the point of this whole exercise in the first place. Racers are cheap so when it comes time to sell you can list the car for $3K and move it within hours to some glutton for punishment or list it for $5K and have it wade with the others at that price point.

Like I said been there and done that. Building your own race car makes no sense at all when you are getting started. Pro racing is another deal all together.

 

Like I said, I'd do a racing school first. The Skip Barber instructors have an acronym called OBS. It stands for Other Sports Beckon.

Dale

 

This is the poster I was going to track down after seeing this thread. Rob has quite a racing background which transfers to this incredibly well, racing a Civic at least for a bit, and would give you some top info.

Hope all is well Rob, will you be racing again this season?

 

Thanks for the vote of confidence Thomas. I've been doing this for a long time and wish to help new people whenever I can. Just remember that no racer ever says 'I can't wait to go wrench on my car' they all say 'I can't wait to drive'. My method maximizes the driving and even reduces the cost.

Not to go off topic but this season should see me endurance racing at Spa-Francorchamps, some VLN races at the Nurburgring, in addition to GT and Formula races in Canada and the US with some other European things in the works. It will be a busy year.

Now back to helping out our friend in Norway.