Last year my 328 had a "common" problem: turning the key and after many times finally a starter response. This year the starter died completly. I managed to feed a direct wire from the sigarette-lighter (using a accessoire plug) over the roof section to the motor harness connector above the driverside rear wheel (white wire). Perfect result. Reliable starting. Bad solution...not good for value. Okay, somewhere between the ignitionkey and startersolenoid there must be a resistance. Removed the passenger footrest and behind it there are two large multiconnectors on the right hand sitting in a metal frame. There the white starter solenoidwire is visible. A very thick white wire coming from above. Hey!!!!! ***!! It is cut through just above the connector !!! Where is the original white wire going to? Ahh.... straight into the Eagle immobiliser!!! Coming out again and travelling into the car electrical harness alongside the centre console wich I already removed. My god! Very bad immobiliserjob! Bad half soldered connections, cut cables everywhere. Resoldered the white wire and some more. Spray WD-40 into the multi-connectors feeding into the Eagle brain box and all original Ferrari multiconnectors in sight. Guess what......turned the ignitionkey: The lovely sound of the starter coming alive again. Next issue: After many years driving the car without the reverse lamps working I combined this job putting a new gear selector reverse switch in. Hey!!! No result!! #@*#!!! No power whatsoever. Both wires dead. Blue/black stripe wire holds the current. Red wire transports the power into the boot. Hmm...where is blue/black stripe going to? Ah, into the same multiconnecor in the metal frame. What??????!!!!!! It is cut through!!!!!! For no reason. The other end hanging loose. Think its a not corrected mistake while installing the immobiliser. Soldered. Yeah! White lightning on the rear of the car while depressing the switch. Immobilisers suck...... When no immobiliser present and the startersolenoid dies there are following steps: 1. Feed a direct line into the starter solenoid using the sigarette lighter and connect to the multiconnector white wire sitting directly above the driverside (LHD) rear wheel. To reach: open boot and look for the connector sitting under the enginecover strutplatform. Peel back the rubber and connect the direct line to the white wire. Starter comes alive? Starter ok. Ground ok. 2. Get to the mentioned multiconnector behind the passenger footrest. Test for power on the white thick wire. No power? Remove female connector. Test for power on male side of connector. No power? Bypass/spray connector. No power? Ignition lock defect. (solenoid wire has NO routing through the relaisbord) 3. Replace power selector at the back of the ignition lock. "Easy" job. Power at the multiconnector? Ok start!!! No response from starter? Get to the multiconnector above driverside rear wheel. 4. Jack up the car, remove inner wheel shell. Disconnect connector and check for power on both sides white wire. Bypass/spray connector if nessesary. Electrical problems are caused by (1) moisture wich corrodes the connections. Connectors pins may seem perfect, the tiny copper wires clamped within the pins sometimes corrode themselves. Hard to see. (2) Female pins can loose clamping force over time, causing loose connections. High resistance generates heat burning the tiny copper wires. Heat escalates the copper corrosion effect breaking down the copper structure. Advice when there are no problems at this time: spray, spray, spray.
