Here is a weird one. Car is a 2000 360 f1, ran just fine until recently. Car was parked for a month with battery switch off. Upon return, car started and drove to the office perfectly. On return journey, alarm would disable with press of key fob, car started fine, but 4 way flashers started flashing. They will not stop. Key in ignition, or out. Car running, or not. Alarm engaged, or not. The only way to stop it is to disconnect the battery. Small red light for alarm blinks in sequence with the external lights. It is not the hazard switch. When I press it, I can hear the flasher relay start clicking. When I release the hazard switch (ie turn it off) I hear a quieter clicking from elsewhere (I suspect associated with the alarm). Thought the battery might be slightly low as a consequence of the month of being parked, so trickle charged it. Battery seems fine (car starts and runs great) but no change to the flashing problem. The 360 is a great car, which would be improved immensely if it was equipped with the security features of the great Ferraris of the 60s. If the alarm thinks a door is ajar, does it do this?
Did you check for alarm battery leak? It seems almost all 360 alarm batteries eventually leak and the alarm does weird things.
Not yet. I called a local tech who suggested that the fob and alarm may be out of synch. It kind of makes sense, as the car is locked and unlocked when the alarm is off. I do not have the alarm manual which came with it, how do I synch it? It was suggested to just cycle it through unlocking opening the door and locking it again a couple of times. Is there a better way, like pressing the key fob 10 times or something? Any way to bypass the whole system? I hate this alarm.
Not a symptom of inop fob or wrong rolling code (synch) or the car would not start. Odds are your alarm siren is shorted out from the rechargeable batteries leaking and corroding the siren guts. Replacing with a new Ferrari or Corvette (much cheaper, GM #15213135) siren will likely cure the problem.
Affirmative, plug and play. Has been a problem for some Euro cars, though. The alarms are specific to each country in some cases. See below, which actually refers to fob types, but references alarm kits for different countries. Looks like the Middle East and Far East are ok, and no sweat for any of the countries with 315 MHz alarms. Note 1 Countries with a frequency of 433 MHz: Italy, Denmark, Luxembourg, Austria, France, Spain, Portugal, Sweden, Finland, Germany (with specific complete ECU kit), Switzerland (with specific complete ECU kit), Belgium (with specific complete ECU kit), Netherlands (with specific complete ECU kit), United Kingdom (with specific complete ECU kit), Ireland (with specific complete ECU kit), Greece, Turkey, Cyprus, Saudi Arabia, Kuwait, Bahrain, Brunei, Hong Kong, China, Thailand, Taiwan. Note 2 Countries with a frequency of 315 MHZ: USA, Canada, Mexico, Puerto Rico, Brazil, Argentina, Venezuela, Lebanon, United Arab Emirates, Oman, Japan, Singapore, Australia.
Do your research on it. There are a lot of threads in the past about it. From what I understand, the GM module will make the car work normally, it will chirp when arming and disarming, etc. and keep the led from lighting up. The bad news is that the actual alarm may not work properly. If the alarm is tripped, it will be silent while the lights flash. I don't have any personal knowledge with this, but I did my research when my module went bad. I decided to go for the OEM module for $255 instead, so I can have "proper" operation. I guess the GM module is a good deal at $80 +/-, but I'm pretty sure that it is not proper. If you only want it to appear that it's working ok, but don't care about it making noise if tripped, then the GM module may not be a bad option.
The only reason I have not replaced my module, either oem or GM, is that I do not like the chirp every time you operate the alarm. Any way to have full function without the annoying chirping ?
Talk to the dealer. I believe it is a setting in the alarm system. Different countries have different requirements about the chirp. My car (euro) does not chip, flash only.
Mine is a 99 euro. Bought the GM part 3 years ago on ebay for 20 bucks. Plugged it in and it's worked fine with a chirp for unlock/lock. It will go off.. haven't tested it with break-in. Turns off any and all LED blinking. Locks work fine. If you really think a squealing alarm is going to stop a thief from stealing your car... install a GPS tracker.
Can you do me a huge favor, so I know for next time, and of course to help others in the future. Can you arm your car with the windows down, then reach in and open the door after a few minutes (give it time to set). Then let me know if the lights only flash, or if they flash and the alarm screams. Thanks! By the way, you are correct, a screaming alarm isn't going to really stop anyone. At best it may alert the owner to check on the car if they are within earshot.
Alarm went off for about 30 seconds, then lights flashed, then I pressed alarm fob because was in garage.. Mine is euro with US alarm installed by prior owner, might be my version of GM alarm... Of course, also put GPS tracker in (Did the wife take it out, etc.)
Swapped out the original item for the GM version of the siren, they looked identical. The old one looked, well, dirty. No change. As soon as I reconnect the battery, a chirp, then the 4 way flashing begins. Key in or out, running or not, alarm on or off, no difference. Car starts and runs fine regardless of whether I press the fob button or not. I am learning to hate this. I am off to see a local tech tomorrow who hopefully has the tool to diagnose alarm ecu errors.
OK, so the obvious has been eliminated. There is one more question to be answered IMHO.. there will always be a relay for the turn signals and emergency flashers. I'm not sure if only one is used or if you have two relays for either function. I might take a look this weekend as I haven't had to deal with it yet. I suspect that the turn signal activates the turn signal relay (front trunk right had side I think... relay 35 or 36 in manual p.4.21) and only diverts the current to the side of the car that you're turning. When the hazard switch is depressed both sides get current and flash. Perhaps try this before you bring it in. Open the front trunk, take the relays out above (carefully note where they go) and then turn the key/start it. If the lights are still flashing, that might suggest the alarm has another relay in it that is flashing the lights/connected to the circuit that flashes the lights. Follow the clicking and see where the other relay is located and if possible remove it. You can then put back in the relays above and see if the flashing is restored. This will tell you if the alarm is linked to the right/left turn signal or to the hazard switch.
Thanks for checking it out for me. Now there is even more confusion because it seems that yours works perfectly, while other GM alarms didn't trip properly. I'm starting to suspect that there may be two different GM alarms that people were using. I still don't know the correct answer. I will try to see if there is some kind of pattern with the GM modules that work vs the ones that don't.
There are 2 seperate relays, one for the hazard function and another for the alarm. You can hear them (one is in the dash, the other behind you). i tried disconnecting the hazard switch, no change. The odd thing is that the triangular orange hazard light comes on in the multifunction display, even though the alarm flasher relay behind me is the one which is making the clicking sound. There was no warning to this problem, no work was done and the car was running fine, just was parked for a few hours at work. The battery had been shut off for a few weeks before that trip to the office.
Problem solved. Car was in panic mode. Someone pushed the fob button and held it down (likely in frustration). Probably successively, out of extreme frustration. Seems if you do it enough, the only way to stop the flashing is to reset the computer.
Alas, I did not reset it. But it involved wiping the memory on the ecu so I suspect so. The alarm ruins what is otherwise a great car.
Glad to hear it wasn't too spensive' to fix! Yeah you're not the only one who would have choice words for the alarm.
Apparently an aftermarket ECU exists for the 430. The tech who helped me with the 360 knows of a local 430 which was a salvage title rebuild. Apparently after a write off, Ferrari 'locks' the ECU when plugged into the dealer computer and will not supply specific parts for that chassis (such as an ECU). The person fixing the car had to find an aftermarket ECU (which I understand was expensive). While I cannot make any comment on the idea of Ferrari refusing to sell parts to you because they do not want you to restore a badly damaged car, the idea of an aftermarket ECU (if it exists for the 360) sounds like a great idea if it does away with the dreaded alarm. When my friend bought this car I was most concerned about the F1 transmission. It has been very reliable but the alarm has caused almost constant issue.
