At first blush there seems to be ambiguity about which of 186698 or 237531 is current for the 430: (from Ricambi America) [186698 RUBBER BUSHING FOR G/B SUPPORT STR] $353.71 each This item is used in the following applications: Vehicle Quantity * Table Location Where Used 360 Challenge 1 26 7 GEARBOX - COVERS 360 Modena 1 33 7 GEARBOX - COVERS 360 Spider 1 33 7 GEARBOX - COVERS Challenge Stradale 1 31 7 GEARBOX - COVERS F430 (05-08) 1 29 7 GEARBOX - COVERS F430 Spider 1 29 7 GEARBOX - COVERS [237531 GEARBOX SUPPORT PAD ] $174.82 each This item is used in the following applications: Vehicle Quantity * Table Location Where Used 430 Scuderia 1 29 7 GEARBOX - COVERS F430 (05-08) 1 29 7 GEARBOX - COVERS F430 (05-08) 1 29 7 GEARBOX - COVERS F430 Spider 1 29 7 GEARBOX - COVERS F430 Spider 1 29 7 GEARBOX - COVERS However the 430 coupe page says: Location Part Qty* Description Price each 7 237531 1 GEARBOX SUPPORT PAD $ 174.82 7 237531 1 GEARBOX SUPPORT PAD -Not as spare part- -Replaced by 237531- $ 174.82 7 186698 1 GEARBOX SUPPORT PAD -Not as spare part now- -Replaced by 220338- $ 353.71 And there seems to be no sign of 220338 anywhere, and 237531 replaced itself? Whatever... IAE 237531 is later and cheaper but for some reason was never called out for use in the 360 group.
For anyone interested there's a well known UK website selling the 186698 part off at a very reduced price of Stg£48.00. Fits....... 360 Challenge (2000) 360 Challenge Stradale 360 Modena 360 Modena 360 Spider 360 Spider 430 Coupé 430 Spider
Just an update based on my following these excellent instructions but using the Hill Engineering tool on a Challenge Stradale: 1. I purchased the tool from Ricambi America, who provided their usual fast and efficient service: 95973219 INSTALLER/REMOVER- TRANS MOUNT/UPPER : Ricambi America 2. The tool is assembled into the bushing for either removal or replacement: cup on one side, mandrel on the other, and long threaded rod through both. The rod is longer than it needs to be to provide the travel required to remove or replace the bushing. This matters only because you need to loosen the exhaust manifold to catalytic converter joints to allow the catalytic converters to drop a couple inches to clear the ends of the rod. To do this you need to remove the muffler, but you need to do that anyway in order to get the wrench swing you need to operate the tool. I did not attempt to shorten the rod to avoid this, and do not know if it could be shortened that much and still work. 3. It took a lot of force on an 18" ratchet handle to get the bushing moving. Dribbling a little penetrating oil around the periphery of the bushing seemed to reduce the force required. However, as the bushing moves out of the transaxle casting the force required is lower and lower of course. I used this ratchet handle 1/2" Drive 18" Ratcheting Breaker Bar. Regardless, it takes many turns and a fair amount of force to remove the bushing, so be prepared for a bit of a workout. 4. When installing the new bushing it is very easy to get it started crooked, so during the first few turns it is extremely important to watch the bushing closely to make sure it is going in straight. If it goes in crooked under any force at all you will have to disassemble the tool, reverse it, and press the bushing back out. This gets old very quickly so go slowly until you have a several turns on the tool during which the bushings stays straight and the amount of force is constant. 5. As a matter or preparation I spent some time smoothing the outside of the new bushing with a fine file and rounding slightly the beveled end of the bushing, which goes in first. 6. If you are installing the 430 bushing (see below), as I did, mark the non-beveled (trailing) end of the bushing case at a point on the circumference adjacent to the sharp end of the long diamond inner metal bushing, which should be "up", so the bushing goes in properly oriented. Despite what the service manual says, there was no orientation mark on the bushing, so this is how I made my own. I did this by filing a notch in the edge of the bushing. Marking with a sharpie did not work because the ink got washed away by any rubbing or oil in the area. 7. The 360 and 430 bushings were the same width, so I re-used the washers on either side of the original 360 bushing. 8. As you approach pressing the bushing into a centered position it is not obvious when to stop. Therefore you should prepare by measuring the bushing width and the casting width so you can determine when the bushing is centered and there is equal clearance on each side. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Digging up this ancient thread, just wanting to thank FerrariDublin for the instructions. Helped me greatly yesterday, as I had to replace a crumbled gearbox bush.
Thanks Greg. Has anyone considered a ball joint press? is there just not enough clearance for even a large SUV press.
Thanks for a great write up, still helping people years down the line. I did mine yesterday, to while away some social distancing time. I’d picked up a pull/push kit from eBay for £80 that had a variety of bearing and bush adapters. It worked a charm on in and out. The lead bevel on my bush wasn’t square, no fiddling in the world would have got it going in straight. I span it on the bench grinder to square the taper and it went in fine. It was tough work pulling them out and in. On the test drive, no more clunk when dropping down off a speed bump and much easier shifting (manual) everything seems much more aligned. I guess it must be as my exhaust tips are sitting 20mm higher than before.
I'm just having mine done as part of the annual service and my mechanics taking the silver cradle out to do the job, how many hours is your shortcut method taking by the way ?
I am wondering if one of these wheel-bearing puller kits would work to replace the transmission bushing? I don't see myself doing this frequently (maybe twice) or I would buy the Hill Engineering tool. On the other hand, does anyone rent their Hill puller? Image Unavailable, Please Login
True, but you could easily use the kit (if it has suitable size componentss) with your own piece of DIY threaded bar and a few washers. No need to use the threaded bar from the kit. Best of luck!
Put the new bushing in the freezer. Muller Krups web site. There you will find exactly what you need. It's a real bugger of a job. Remove the under panel and support the rear section of the gearbox with a jack. Do yourselves a favor and remove entirely the frame brace from the engine compartment. It's not at all difficult. If you have cats still installed, the threaded rod length as supplied by Muller Krups will need to be reduced as it will interfere with the seam on the cats. Set your tool, apply pressure to the bushing to pre-load it ..do not be scared load it up good and tight ..use a propane torch..apply some heat..you will hear a noticable snap and crack noise when the bush starts to move. Quickly start pressing it out. Don't be afraid to add more heat if needed. Once out..let the bore cool naturally..do not quench it with water. Grab you now frozen bushing and press it into the bore. Assemble the rest.