CV joint and drive seal replacement

I recently did mine on my 77GTB and did not have to. Check Birdman's site for a great tutorial. Ferrari 308 Mondial parts and service

Fastradio (here on FChat) has a great kit available for seals and boots. And he is a great counselor when you need a little reassurance...

CC

 

I did my 77 GTB as well, a few years ago, and as I recall, no need to drain gearbox.
Greg

 

Hmmm. my kit came with several tubes of CV grease. i would imagine an auto parts store would have something similar

Greg

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thanks for asking about the gearbox oil, I'm planning the same work, and had the same question.

I purchased the CV joint lube from Auto Parts at AutohausAZ - OEM Auto Parts - Discount Replacement Parts, Resources and Car Care Tips , Part number 2004

They also carry the Curil T sealing compound Birdman refers to in his tutorial (PN 246948).

 

David's (Fastradio) kit was all inclusive so I didn't have to worry about sourcing it. Unfortunately I did not record what brand/specification it was.

It is an easy repair - once you break all the bolts loose. Enjoy the bonding time.

 

David Fastradio made a great recommendation of the sealant for the output shaft splines and bolt:

Permatex 81182 Gear Oil RTV Gasket Maker, 3 oz. : Amazon.com : Automotive

Really good stuff.

 

This was my method of holding the output shafts while removing/replacing the bolt.

Piece of ally with 2 holes drilled and bolt to the output shaft.

I am not sure exactly how that seal tool would be used, presumably you insert the original bolt through it and tighten to press the seal in. Maybe the side bolt is to prevent it rotating in some way.
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Redlline CV2 is a good call for the CV grease if you havn't done it yet.

The WS manual states 140g of grease per joint & its widely acknowledged to be wrong - it should be 100g (so you can get away with one tub of grease, which, for reasons known only unto Redline contains 397 g !!). You might well wonder how you get 100g in each joint when you start to put the stuff in, let alone 140!

There was a good video about somewhere recently that exlained exactly how to re-assemble the CV joints & make sure you get everything the right way around. A lot of 1/2" drive extensions & a universal joint are what you need to get to the bolts . Make sure you have a good quality hex head bit & clean each bolt head out before you try & undo it to make sure the bit seats properly. If you round one o fthose things off it would be a PITA extraordinaire!

For the clamps, the Oeticker ones work well & when put them on be sure to make sure you line up the crimped bit away from the bolt holes! invest in the proper tool to crimp them as well. Don't forget the washers on the inboard left side bolts.

Its messy but not too difficult.

Change any bolts that have suspect hex heads as well. Bolt length is critical so of you are replacing any make sure you get the right ones.

 

My theory about the 140 grams is that unlike on many cars, there is no end cap over the outside ends of the CV joints. They are open and maybe the extra is in case grease migrates out into the void in the output shaft or hub. Could be just a wild guess though and probably is.

 

Here is part one of two videos i made about our cv joints.

Cv joint rebuild from a 1985 Ferrari 308 QV - YouTube

Here is part wo

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sjV9tH1MYao&feature=player_detailpage]PART 2 Cv joint rebuild from a 1985 Ferrari 308 QV - YouTube[/ame]

 

308s use the same axles as the Porsche 911. Local axle shops here charge less than $450.00 to rebuild both with a 1 day turn time.

 

Bob,

here is a good thread.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/technical-q/78188-308-cv-joint-rebuild-6.html#post141064649

Rob

 

Rebuilt mine over the winter: Inside Ribs and Washers, The washers are mostly there to take up length in the bolts (inside flange area, potential interference) be careful of the bearing cage & bearing installation there's a right way and a wrong way! Also make sure you replace the original circlips. Birdman's tutorial is helpful! Also was cool to see the Ferrari 308 GT4 stamp on the bearing hubs! And while you are there... if you haven't done these, go ahead a rebuild your shocks. I had a riser ring installed on the shocks - must have been one of those 70's thing, go figure.... who would raise the rear end on a Ferrari? Anyway have fun and godspeed!

 

I'd guess that it is "normal" for a 1975 308 to have been originally assembled without them (since the 1976 308GT4 SPC shows no washers, while the 1979 308GT4 SPC does show the washers) -- i.e., it was a change that they added later in production when they realized just how crazy close the ends of the bolts were getting to the ends of the studs on some cars. Length tolerances for large bolts and studs, and the variation in the installed height of a stud are HUGE -- so it probably all looks good on the nominal design drawing, but some might be OK without the washer, while some might not (depending on how the tolerances stack-up together). Additionally, there was a significant design change to the 308 differential starting with gearbox SN 693 -- could be that the clearance was less of an issue with the early diff design, but somehow the nominal clearance got reduced in the redesign -- but just another guess.

If the existing clearance on your 308 seems insane = add the washers.

If the existing clearance is OK = your choice to add the washers or not (although another factor is to ensure that the bolt end extends some minimum distance past the nut).

 

Bob,

I have #10766 no washers and one rib wheel side two ridges engine side. There is lots of good info in the post I added.

Post some pics!

Rob

 

Are you trying to remove item 62 here?:

Ferrari 308GT4 Parts : Table 20 - GEAR - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING AND OIL SUMP

Normally, that wouldn't be removed to just replace the lip seals.

 

I did not remove it. I think there are pictures at the CV joint thread I posted