Would you start with a CRX?

I agree with dale. Dale, I'm calculating because I'm cheap and have to buy and fix my own equipment. I set my ecu to a max safe rpm limit and feel fine bouncing off it. That means I can't push beyond a limit in the heat of battle where emotions rule the day. Thus I preserve equipment. If I really wanted the plastic trophy that bad I would need a different strategy to consistently win. If I really thought Ferrari was going to rescue me from my day job I would throw caution to the wind.

 

I have seen Spec Miatas beat Ferrari Challenge cars. Part of the reason was the SM driver was willing to push his car a lot further than the Ferrari guy. In racing, it can pay to be cheap.

Dale

 

You may need to redo some of the prior work, but that's a lot cheaper than doing it the first time.

This is your most bang for the buck. But, I'll warn you. This stuff is addicting, next thing you know...

Dale

 

Yes... In fact there are helmets under 200 bucks too. There are chevys and then there are Ferraris. In this case there is significant difference between a bolt in autopower and a purpose built proper rollcage. Racing is not an 80% just show up sport. Last month in hpde a girl died at CVR with poor safety gear and probably did not know any better. Two months ago in an bode an instructor was impaled in a wreck. Day before yesterday car burned to ground driver ok. a p-bug flipped my Ferrari into a wall. A BMW smacked my rearend. ***** happens in this sport a lot. A car in hose can go just as fast as when racing. Your on track exposure is only mildly less in hpde while your safety fire rescue is much less. Be prepared!

 

Perhaps I got a bit ahead of myself because my advice was geared very much towards going racing rather than getting your feet wet with some track days. That said I would advise the following:

Take your CRX to a good mechanic and have them give it a good safety and mechanical inspection. Assuming it passes, flush the brake fluid and replace it with good high quality fluid. Also replace the front brake rotors and brake pads for some high performance pad. While you are at it have the wheel alignment checked. Thats it to get started and you should be on the track for less than $500.

Then enter in some driving events at the track where an instructor can ride with you and guide you along. Regardless if the event requires it or not buy a good helmet. Yes a full roll cage is nice but under the guidance of an instructor you should be fairly safe in the early going. Then if you like it and feel that it is something of interest you can look at buying a dedicated track car.

The temptation is great to want to continue to pour money into your car to make it faster and faster and this is a big waste as you will recover zero cents on the dollar. Spend only what is needed to keep the car you have safe and reliable and save any of this 'modification temptation money' towards a future vehicle upgrade. Trust me when I tell you that you will end up with a better all round car by trading up in steps rather than slow spending on the same car and I can prove it with dozens of examples if need be

Whenever you feel the temptation to upgrade your existing car just remember that as long as there is someone out there who can make it go faster than you then you should spend your time working on being a faster driver than dump money into making a faster car.

 

True! I wore a $175 Arai for over 250 laps of the Nurburgring during "open" sessions
None of those laps, that I was behind the wheel for at least, was in a car with a cage either (see avatar for one example).

Very good stuff N.
Do you have a website for your VLN team?
What are you driving?

 

Superb advice, went well with my line of thoughts! I'm not intending to make the car faster beyond the usual NA tuning (not using money on turbo setups).


Thanks again, very informative and assuring.

 

If you end up enjoying track days and deside to buy proper trailered track car, look at UK. There is lots and lots of cheap'ish track/race cars to choose from.

 

I have actually thought of this earlier, because they do have some really low prices (lowest in Europe?).

Maybe it's just my observation but some trackday cars tend to sit for sale for a very long time. I think big bargains in this niche market is possible.

 

Now, you're talking. Let someone else do the heavy lifting.

6-point belts - check
Full cage - check
Fire suppression - check

Let us know what you decide to do.

Dale

 

I would go for a fully prepared car from someone moving on or out. Probably pick up their trailer at the same time. RWD for for sure. If you move up,go to a single seater,sports racer then you need to learn rwd handling. Stay with the same type or class then fwd experience will be fine. GTS Bruce

 

I would start out with an MR2.